Bleau.info : Rocher Saint-Germain : Topo

thanks to Eric Allayaud & Régis Allayaud & Alexis Allayaud & Tony Fouchereau

1Destudo 4--
voie de gauche sur la face Nord d'un bloc situé au dessus du sentier bleu, entre les lettrines "M" et "N".
2Vestudo 5--
left problem on the North face of a boulder above the blue path, between the letters "M" and "N".
3Testudo 6a--
***** central problem on the North face of a boulder above the blue path, between the letters "M" and "N".
4Tétragnathe 6a--
on the boulder to the right of Testudo, above the blue path, between the letters "M" and "N".
5Tête à Claques 5+--
***** right problem on the South face of a boulder above the blue path, between the letters "M" and "N".
6Twister 6a+slightly overhanging / wall-
***** between C.Q.F.D and Tête à Claques, on the South face of a boulder above the blue path, between the letters "M" and "N".
7C.Q.F.D. 6bslightly overhanging / wall-
***** left problem on the South face of a boulder above the blue path, between the letters "M" and "N".
8Éjection Précoce 7a+dynoAlexis Allayaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] direct dyno from the ground on a boulder to the right side of the blue path from Mégalithe in direction of Danse de Printemps.
8'Brève Éjection 7adyno / slopersPepito
***** on the right side of the blue path from Mégalithe in direction of Danse de Printemps. Variant of Éjection Précoce with the left sloper.
9Précoce Éjection 7a+ (7b+)dynoAlexis Allayaud
***** on the right side of the blue path from Mégalithe in direction of Danse de Printemps. Start left, make a short 1m traverse and finish in Éjection Précoce. The grade depends on the exit.
10Brigade Chamoniarde 6c--
on a boulder to the East of Éjection Précoce, on the right side of the blue path from Mégalithe in direction of Danse de Printemps.
11Ulobore 5+--
on the North face of the boulder of Brigade Chamoniarde, to the East of Éjection Précoce, on the right side of the blue path from Mégalithe in direction of Danse de Printemps.
12L'Ombre Sympathique 6baretePepito
angle to the right of Zygielle, on the boulder to the left of Le Nombril du Monde, 20m to the South-East of Mégalithe.
12Zygielle 6a--
***** on the boulder to the left of Le Nombril du Monde, 20m to the South-East of Mégalithe.
13Le Nombril du Monde 7btraverse frtl / prow-
on the boulder 20m to the South-East of Mégalithe. Start at a tree, traveree to the left, pass the angle and exit by the prow on slopers.
14Mangore 6b+traverse frtl-
on the boulder to the left of Le Nombril du Monde, 20m to the South of Mégalithe.
15Céréales Killers 6awall / expo-
diagonal to the left between Le Repaire de l'Épeire and Mangore, 20m to the South of Mégalithe.
16Le Repaire de l'Épeire 7a+traverse frtlRégis Allayaud
***** 30m above La Route du Luxembourg, on the boulder underneath Le Labyrinthe des Ombres. Start completely right (lichenous), pass the angle, continue to traverse and exit in L'Épeire. Access : take a small path 50m before La Route de Hauÿ (coming from Belle-Croix); the boulder is to the right of that one.
17Dioda 5---
15m above La Route du Luxembourg, to the right of Diodie, on the boulder of L'Épeire/A>.
18Diodie 5slightly overhanging / mantle-
15m above La Route du Luxembourg, to the right of L'Épeire/A>.
19L'Épeire 5+slightly overhanging / crack / mantle-
 [ 3 photos ] 30m above La Route du Luxembourg.
20Le Labyrinthe des Ombres 7aoverhang / sitstart / mantleAlexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 5 photos ] to the left of Lydie'lle, on a boulder 40m above La Route du Luxembourg. Sitstart in the pit with the two hand on a vertical pinch, climb the overhang and exit by a mantle above. Access : take a small path 50m before La Route de Hauÿ (coming from Belle-Croix); the boulder is to the right of that one.
21Lydie'lle 7b (7b+)overhangRégis Allayaud
*****  [ 4 photos ] to the right of Le Labyrinthe des Ombres, on a boulder 40m above La Route du Luxembourg. Sitstart to the right of the pit, climb the overhang with vertical holds and exit by a mantle above. Access : take a small path 50m before La Route de Hauÿ (coming from Belle-Croix); the boulder is to the right of that one.
22Argiope 5--
right arete on the boulder above Le Labyrinthe des Ombres.
23Adiante 6aslab-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] direct slab on the boulder above Le Labyrinthe des Ombres.
24Vision Troublante 6bsitstart-
on the West face of a boulder underneath Mégalithe.
25CP'artie 5--
on the North face of a boulder underneath Mégalithe.
26Argyronète 5--
sur la face Sud d'un bloc situé en dessous de Mégalithe.
28El Cracoucass 6c+--
***** left problem on a boulder underneath Mégalithe, in a corridor.
29Garuda 5+ (6a)--
***** to the right of El Cracoucass, on a boulder underneath Mégalithe, in a corridor.
30Kasyapa 4--
left problem on the boulder just underneath Mégalithe.
31Vinata 5+--
right problem on the boulder just underneath Mégalithe.
32Mégalight 7barete / dynoAlexis Allayaud
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre. Left arete in the wall to the left of Mégalithe.
32'Mégalight assis 7b+sitstart / arete / dynoThierry Plaud
***** sitstart of Mégalight, to the left of the boulder of Mégalithe. Sitstart and exit via a dyno.
33Mégalutte 6b+wall-
on the boulder of Mégalithe, to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
34Mégalatte 7awall / sitstart / expoAlexis Allayaud
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre. To the left of Mégalithe.
35Mégawatt 7c+ (8a)traverseAlexis Allayaud
*****  [ 5 photos ] to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre, on the boulder of Mégalithe. Start in Mégalight, downclimb Mégalutte (6b+ to the right of it) and exit up in Mégalatte.
35'Mégawatt assis 8a (7c+)traverse / sitstartTony Fouchereau
***** sitstart of Mégawatt : sitstart, climb Mégalight, go down Mégalutte (6b+ to the right of it) and exit up in Mégalatte.
36Mégagratte 6c--
just right of Mégalithe, to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
37Mégadalle 4--
on the North face of the boulder of Mégalithe, to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
38Pickpocket 7awallAlexis Allayaud
***** eliminate on the other side of blue path n°4 from Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
39Méta 4--
on the South-West face of the boulder above Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre, along the blue path.
40Rock Bouddhiste 6aexpo-
***** on the angle of the boulder above Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre, along the blue path.
41Zen Garden 6b--
***** on the North-West face of the boulder above Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre, along the blue path.
42Le Ventre plus gros que les Yeux 4wall / crack-
voie de droite sur le bloc situé entre Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre et Symbiose, le long du sentier bleu.
43Sagesse du Fou 6awall-
central problem on the boulder in between Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre and Symbiose, along the blue path.
44Folie du Sage 6awall / crack-
***** left problem on the boulder in between Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre and Symbiose, along the blue path.
45Ultime Vanité 7btraverse frtl / overhang / sitstartAlexis Allayaud
***** above Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre, on the right of the blue path. Sitstart next to a tree, traverse for 3m to the left and exit via the arete.
46Babord 6c--
to the right of the overhanging prow of Symbiose, along the blue path, on the boulder just after Ultime Vanité (coming from Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre).
47Symbiose 7c+pillar / overhang / dynoRégis Allayaud
*****  [ 1 photo ] at the side of the blue path, on the boulder to the left of Ultime Vanité (coming from Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre).
48Tribord 4--
to the left of the overhanging prow of Symbiose, along the blue path, on the boulder just after Ultime Vanité (coming from Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre).
49Arachné 5--
on the North face of Symbiose, along the blue path, on the boulder just after Ultime Vanité (coming from Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre).
50Orbitèles 6a--
near the letter "K", along the blue path.
51Pholcus 5+--
on the boulder marked "J".
52Tégénaire 5--
above the blue path, near the lettre "J".
53Hypthiote 5+--
on the boulder underneath Métamorphose.
54Dolomère 4--
right problem on the boulder to the South of Métamorphose, to the opposite of a small path.
55Cyclose 6a--
***** left problem on the boulder to the South of Métamorphose, to the opposite of a small path.
56Peau de Chagrin 7cdyno / mantle-
***** on the left of Métamorphose, on the other side of blue path n°4, three boulders to the left of Symbiose. Doubledyno and mantle.
57Métamorphose 7a (6c+)overhang / sitstartEric Allayaud
***** to the right of Peau de Chagrin, on the backside of the boulder, on the other side of blue path n°4, near the boulder marked "K".
58L'Insensible 7a (7a+)slabRégis Allayaud
*****  [ 1 video ] on the boulder to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
59Xixi's Wall 7c+ (8a)wall / slabAlexis Allayaud
***** two boulders to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre, to the right of Prose Profane. Morpho.
60Prose Profane 7awallEric Allayaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 7 photos ] two boulders to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre, to the left of Xixi's Wall. Without the left arete.
61Crux Tassé 6ctraverse frtl-
***** along the path, just after Prose Profane, coming from Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
62Le Clone du Clown 6c (6c+)arete-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 7 photos ] right arete on the boulder behind Prose Profane.
63Le Clown du Clone 6a (6a+)--
***** left arete on the boulder behind Prose Profane.
64Pal Supplice 6a (5+)wall-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] on the North-Western face of the boulder of L'Insensible.
65Linyphie 5--
on the boulder to the East of Soucis d'Air.
66Grandeur Nature 4--
on the South face of the boulder of Soucis d'Air, on a big boulder alongside the path 30m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
67Soucis d'Air debout 6b+ (6c)dyno-
*****  [ 1 photo ] on a big boulder alongside the path 30m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
67'Soucis d'Air 8adyno / sitstartAlexis Allayaud
*****  [ 1 photo ] on a big boulder alongside the path 30m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
68Chaminix 4--
on the backside of the boulder of Soucis d'Air.
69Crash Bad 4--
on the boulder behind that of Soucis d'Air.
70XXL 7awall / slopersAlexis Allayaud
***** 50m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre. Start to the right (morpho).
71XXL direct 7b+ (7c)wall / slopersAlexis Allayaud
***** 50m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre. Direct start of XXL. Morpho.
71'XXL direct assis 7c+sitstart / wall / slopersAlexis Allayaud
***** 50m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre. Sitstart of XXL direct. Morpho.
72Moka 5--
on a boulder to the North of XXL.
73H2O 5+--
on a boulder to the North-West of XXL.
74Ridicule 5+--
on the boulder to the South of Out Système.
75Out Système 7a (7a+)overhang / traverse frtl / expoAlexis Allayaud
***** left version of Out Système, to the opposite of Deus Ex Machina, 60m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre. Sitstart, climb the overhang diagonally to the left and exit at the top of the boulder.
75Out Système droite 7aoverhang / traverse frtl / expoAlexis Allayaud
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 1 photo ] to the opposite of Deus Ex Machina, 60m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre. Sitstart, climb the overhang diagonally to the left and exit in the right face.
76Course Folle 6b+--
***** on the boulder of Out Système.
77Le Labyrinthe de Glace 6ctraverse frtl-
start on the left face of the boulder of Out Système and exit to the right of that one.
78Deus Ex Machina 7bprow / expoAlexis Allayaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] overhanging prow at the leftside of the path, on the backside of a high boulder, 60m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
79Nouvelle Prohibition 6c--
to the right of the path, on the boulder avove Out Système.
80Le Dôme du Tonnerre 5--
on the second boulder above Out Système.
81De Grès et de Force 6c--
to the North-West of the sector, above the blue path.
82Véda 5+ (6a)--
***** to the right of Le Seuil, to the North-West of the sector, above the blue path, 150m from the parking lot of Belle-Croix.
82'Le Seuil 6b-Pepito
***** to the left of Véda, to the North-West of the sector, above the blue path, 150m from the parking lot of Belle-Croix.
101Plaisir d'Offrir 7a+ (7b)slightly overhanging / sitstart / bidoigtTony Fouchereau / Teddy Deschamps
*****  [ 2 photos ] follow for about 100m blue path n°4 after Danse de Printemps.
102Vulcain 7c (7c+)slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstartTony Fouchereau
***** follow for about 100m blue path n°4 after Danse de Printemps; right problem on the North face.
103Lunatic 7b+slightly overhangingTeddy Deschamps
***** follow for about 100m blue path n°4 after Danse de Printemps; left problem on the north face, direct exit (with sitstart?)
104Fil d'Ariane 6c+slightly overhangingTony Fouchereau
follow for about 100m the GR after Danse de Printemps; second boulder, 50m on the left; left problem on the north face with left exit.
105Mysteria 7awallTony Fouchereau / Teddy Deschamps
*****  [ 2 photos ] follow for about 100m blue path n°4 past Danse de Printemps. Left problem on the west face; right exit.
106Mysteria direct 7c (7c+)wallTony Fouchereau
 [ 2 photos ] direct exit of Mysteria; morpho.
106'Mysteria assis 7c+ (8a)wall / sitstartTony Fouchereau
sitstart of Mysteria, with direct exit
107Ariane 4 7adynoTony Fouchereau / Teddy Deschamps
***** follow blue path n°4 for 100m after Danse de Printemps; the problem is located to the left of the path.
108Jump 7b+ (7c)slightly overhanging / dynoStéphan Denys
***** left problem with a direct exit on the first boulder direct to the right of the path. Access : follow blue path n°4 for 250m from Danse de Printemps.
108'Retour d'Ariane 5 7c (7c+)slightly overhanging / sitstart / dynoTony Fouchereau
*****  [ 4 photos ] sitstart version of Jump.
109Rosetta 7b (7b+)slightly overhanging / sitstartTony Fouchereau
*****  [ 2 photos ] follow blue path n°4 for 250m from Danse de Printemps. Right problem on the North face of the first boulder, direct to the right of the path.
110Fenêtre de Lancement 7a+ (7a)slopersTony Fouchereau / Teddy Deschamps
*****  [ 8 photos ] in the North face of the second boulder on the right, 10m from the path by following the blue path n°4 for 250m from Danse de Printemps. Crouching start as for La Diagonale des Fous and exit directly.
111La Diagonale des Fous 7aslopersTony Fouchereau / Teddy Deschamps
***** in the North face of the second boulder on the right, 10m from the path by following the blue path n°4 for 250m from Danse de Printemps. Crouching start as for Fenêtre de Lancement and exit to the left on the left.
112- 7a (7b)arete-
*****  [ 1 photo ] round arete 50m to the left of the path, to the opposite to the second boulder with the letter "Q"; morpho. Access : follow the Sentier Bleu n°4 for about 300m from Danse de Printemps.
113Rencontre du Troisième Type 7cprow / slopersKevin Lopata
*****  [ 4 photos ] follow blue path n°4 for about 300m from Danse de Printemps; the boulder is 10m to the left near the second boulder with the Q, when the path turns.
113'Rencontre du Troisième Type assis 8a (8b)sitstart / prow / slopersTony Fouchereau
sitstart of Rencontre du Troisième Type. Access : follow blue path n°4 for about 300m from Danse de Printemps; the boulder is 10m to the left near the second boulder with the Q, when the path turns.
114Pointe à Pitre 7b (7b+)slightly overhanging / mantleStéphan Denys
***** follow blue path n°4 for about 300m from Danse de Printemps. The boulder is like a tunnel over a path; start with the boulder on the right.
114'Starting Bloc 7cdyno / slightly overhanging / mantleJulien Nadiras
*****  [ 1 photo ] follow blue path n°4 for about 300m from Danse de Printemps; the boulder is like a tunnel over a path. Jumpstart of Pointe à Pitre.

 

Outside the topo

L'Artificier 7a+slab / crimps / traverse fltrPhilippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 9 photos ] diagonal on the boulder of blue n°1. Start at the shell hole (or 1m to its right) and finish in the easiest way to the right as for Lacrima. NB : often confused with Mise au Poing (6c/7a slab on the left).
L'Artificier direct 7b+slabPhilippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 5 photos ] on the boulder of blue n°1, to the left of Lacrima. Start in the shell hole (or 1m to its right, 7c) as for L'Artificier and finish directly. NB : exposed to the South (recommended for cold season).
Pungo Pygméus 7b+wallJean-Pierre Bouvier
high problem with thin horizontal cracks, on the right one of two yellowish walls, near the parking lot of Belle Croix.
- 7b+--
***** in the corridor to the east of Double Croche.
Danse de Printemps 7c (7b+)traverse frtlJean-Pierre Bouvier
***** along the blue path n°4, to the West of the its crossing with La Route Haüy. Start in a corridor and exit before the angle at a characteristic bracelet. NB : prolongation around the corner is Sonate d'Automne, 8b+.
Danse de Printemps gauche-droite 7c (7b+)traverse fltr-
***** along the blue path n°4, to the West of the its crossing with La Route Haüy. Sitstart under the bracelet and make the back traverse of Danse de Printemps.
Danse de Printemps en aller-retour 8atraverse-
***** along the blue path n°4, to the West of the its crossing with Route Haüy. Start in Danse de Printemps, come back at the bracelet and exit by the pillar, 1m to the left of the starting point.
Sonate d'Automne 8b+traverse frtlJacky Godoffe
***** along blue path n°4, to the west of the its crossing with Route Haüy. Prolongation of Danse de Printemps around the corner.
Didgeridoo 8ctraverse / sitstartFrancis Hélias
along blue path n°4, to the west of the its crossing with Route Haüy, on the blouder of Danse de Printemps. Sitstart underneath the bracelet, low until the left arete and back in Sonate d'Automne without the rest.
Amazonia 8c+traverseFrancis Hélias
along blue path n°4, to the west of the its crossing with Route Haüy, on the boulder of Danse de Printemps. There and back of Sonate d'Automne.
Double Croche 7c+traverse fltrOlivier Carrière
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the right of La Route Haüy, before the crossing with blue path n°4.
Mégalithe 7c+wall / dynoStéphan Denys
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
The Bloc 8asitstart / dynoMarc Le Ménestrel
***** sitstart of Mégalithe.
Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre 7c+traverse frtlBenoît Faure
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the right of blue path n°4, between boulders marked "K" and "L", just before the path turns left.
Névrose 7b+traverse fltr-
***** along the blue path n°4, 30m after Danse de Printemps and the crossing with Route Haüy. Start with two slopers, downclimb to the angle, traverse with good holds and exit in the wall to the right with a good pocket.
Sica Danse 8atraverse-
 [ 1 photo ] near the parking of Belle Croix. NB : this was a traverse plastered with sica; after a polemic about the use of sica, the opener removed the sica, such that the route is not possible anymore.
La Cité Perdue 7c+traverse frtlSébastien Frigault
the boulder is to the right of La Route Haüy, before the crossing with La Route des Grès Pétrifiés.
Lacrima 7c+ (8b)slabLoïc Le Denmat
*****  [ 2 photos ] straight up of blue n°1, to the left of L'Artificier (same exit). Low start is 8b.
Mouvement Icarien 6c+dyno / overhangAlexis Allayaud
 [ 1 photo ] alongside the route du Mont St-Germain, 1km from the cristalcave (Grotte aux Cristaux).
Affirmatif 7adynoManuel Marquès
on the boulder to the right of yellow n°8, 20m behind the slab of L'Artificier. Start with two sideholds on the left of Y'a pas de P qui Compte.
Y'a pas de P qui Compte 7csitstart / overhangManuel Marquès
***** on the boulder to the right of yellow n°8, 20m behind the slab of L'Artificier. Sitstart to the right of Affirmatif, via big holds along the right, exit left on the chipped "P".
Triste Sir 7a+dyno / sitstartAlexis Allayaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] to the right of the start of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
Patati 7cbidoigtManuel Marquès
***** behind blue n°28, facing yellow n°27. Start on a two finger pocket and exit to the left of a green triangle.
Vague Patatras 8atraverse frtl / belly / prowManuel Marquès
*****  [ 3 photos ] behind blue n°28, facing yellow n°27. Low traverse and exit in a prow (red line in photo). 8a without the traverse.
Opération Plats du Désert 8a+dyno / mantle / expoManuel Marquès
 [ 1 photo ] behindblue n°28, facing yellow n°27. After the low traverse ltr, double dyno to a sloper and mantle (blue line in picture).
Sortie UNSS 6b (6c)roof / dynoManuel Marquès
small roof behind blue n°21.
Béa Prise Dalle 4+--
***** former start of the blue circuit.
La Dalle du Trou d'Obus 6cslab / crimps-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] on the boulder of the start of the blue circuit. Climb the slab directly above (and slightly left of) the hole.
Mise au Poing 7aslabPhilippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 13 photos ] direct slab to the left of the shell hole (6c starting from the right).
Partage 8atraverse fltr-
***** 10m to the right of blue path n°4, after Danse de Printemps. Sitstart between two angles, traverse to the right with top holds and exit after a third angle. NB : several direct 7a/b problems (with sitstart) are possible on this boulder.
Psychose 8atraverse fltrSébastien Frigault
***** 10m to the right of blue path n°4, after Danse de Printemps. Start before the left angle, traverse to the left with top holds and exit after a third angle.
Le Tour de Partage 8btraverse fltrChristian Roumégoux
complete lap of the boulder of Partage. Start to the left of a wall, pass an arete, traverse in the wall, continue in Partage and come back to the starting point.
Maharadja (aller-retour de Psychose) 8b+ (8c)traverseFrancis Hélias
There and back of Psychose, by starting to the left of that problem. Opened in 2003.
Délire Onirique 8a+overhang / mantleKevin Lopata
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 2 photos ] direct from the start of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
Le Décapsuleur 7aslightly overhanging / underclings / dynoLaurent Darlot
***** in between Pointe à Pitre and Rencontre du Troisième Type. Start in a corridor with two crimps, take an undercling (bad feet), dyno to the top and exit via a mantle on the right.
Le Guerrier Gris 7cslightly overhangingThierry Plaud
***** 40m above and to the West of Éjection Précoce (and 200m underneath Mégalithe). Standing start in a pit and climb the T-Rex-style prow.
Au Royaume des Aveugles 7c+overhang / slopers / monosThierry Plaud
***** on the backside of the boulder with Le Guerrier Gris, 40m above and to the West of Éjection Précoce (and 200m underneath Mégalithe). Standing start in a pit and climb the bowl-shaped boulder exposed to the North using slopers and a monodoigt.
Au Royaume des Aveugles (du fond) 8aoverhang / slopers / monosChristian Roumégoux
***** low start of Au Royaume des Aveugles, on the backside of the boulder of Guerrier Gris, 40m above and to the West of Éjection Précoce. Start with hands and feet on the small boulder under the overhang, climb the roof using a mono and exit in the classical version (12 moves).
Les Gardes Forestiers sont bien Sympas 7a+ (7b)traverse fltr / slopers / sitstartManuel Marquès
 [ 2 photos ] along La Route Haüy, at the crossing with the blue path n°4, 20m to the West of of Danse de Printemps. Sitstart, traverse on the ascending ledge on slopers and exit at the top of the arete.
L'Art de la Fugue 8aslightly overhangingJohann Guillaume / Jean-Baptiste Jourjon
*****  [ 4 photos ] to the left of the tree, on the boulder of Les Yeux plus Gros que le Ventre. Standing start and exit directly on slopers using a small hold left hand.
Le Convecteur Temporel 8bslightly overhanging / sitstartOlivier Lebreton
sitstart in Yeux plus Gros que le Ventre, traverse to the left for 3m and exit to the left of the tree in L'Art de la Fugue.
- 6cwall / mantleJohann Guillaume
 [ 1 photo ] just under the blue path n°4, in between the boulder of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre and Mégalithe.
Mégaloutre 7cwall / areteMaxime Prodhomme / Romuald Bussy
***** angle just right of Mégalithe, to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre. Start to the right with a crimp left hand and the arete right hand, climb this one and finish with the exit hold of Mégalithe.
Droit au But 6cpillar / slab / expo-
direct pillar 1m to the left of Mise au Poing, on the boulder of blue n°1.
Les JO de Londres 7a (6c+)slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstartPatrick Lefaucheur / Tony Fouchereau
***** in an overhang with a blue mark on the right of the blue path, after Danse de Printemps. Sitstart on the left of the boulder with a big crack and exit by a mantle above. Access : from Danse de Printemps, go up the blue path for 40-50m towards Jump; the boulder is on the right of the path.
Les JO de Londres gauche 7a+slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstartTony Fouchereau
in an overhang with a blue mark on the right of the blue path, after Danse de Printemps. Sitstart on the left of the boulder with a big crack as for Les JO de Londres, climb the overhang up to the slopers, take the round crimp on the left and exit at the top of the boulder. Access : from Danse de Printemps, go up the blue path for 40-50m towards Jump; the boulder is on the right of the path.
Saut en Longueur 6c+ (7a)slightly overhanging / crack / sitstartElric Besnier / Jean-Hervé Baudot
in an overhang with a blue mark on the right of the blue path, after Danse de Printemps. Sitstart 1m to the left of Triple Sot with the two hands in a thin crack and exit by a mantle above. Access : from Danse de Printemps, go up the blue path for 40-50m towards Jump; the boulder is on the right of the path.
La Cérémonie d'Ouverture 7btraverse fltr / slopers / sitstartTony Fouchereau / Christian Roumégoux
***** in an overhang with a blue mark on the right of the blue path, after Danse de Printemps. Sitstart on the left of the boulder with a big crack as for Les JO de Londres, climb the overhang, traverse on the right on the ledge and exit at the end in Triple Sot. Access : from Danse de Printemps, go up the blue path for 40-50m towards Jump; the boulder is on the right of the path.
La Cérémonie de Clôture 7c (7b+)traverse frtl / slopers / sitstartTony Fouchereau / Elric Besnier
***** in an overhang with a blue mark on the right of the blue path, after Danse de Printemps. Sitstart (without crash-pad) on the right as for Triple Sot, traverse on the ledge and exit in Les JO de Londres above a big crack. NB : 7c without the rest at the end.Access : from Danse de Printemps, go up the blue path for 40-50m towards Jump; the boulder is on the right of the path.
La Cérémonie de Clôture prolongée 7c+ (7c)traverse frtl / slopers / sitstartElric Besnier / Tony Fouchereau
***** in an overhang with a blue mark on the right of the blue path, after Danse de Printemps. Sitstart (without crash-pad) on the right as for Triple Sot, traverse on the ledge and exit at the very end in Les JO de Londres gauche. NB : 7c+ without the rest at the end.Access : from Danse de Printemps, go up the blue path for 40-50m towards Jump; the boulder is on the right of the path.
Triple Sot 6cslightly overhanging / slopers / sitstartElric Besnier / Jean-Hervé Baudot
in an overhang with a blue mark on the right of the blue path, after Danse de Printemps. Sitstart (without crash-pad) on the right, climb the overhang and exit above. Access : from Danse de Printemps, go up the blue path for 40-50m towards Jump; the boulder is on the right of the path.
Les Barjots 7a+traverse frtl / slopers / sitstartTony Fouchereau / Elric Besnier
***** past Danse de Printemps, near the blue path. Sitstart on the right with the two hands on the arete, traverse in the middle without using the top of the boulder and exit either on the left of the arete or directly. Access : from Les JO de Londres, go down the blue path for 10m, take a small path on the left before the tunnel; the boulder is to the opposite of the blue path 8m further.
Para Olympique 7aslightly overhanging / monos / sitstartChristian Roumégoux / Tony Fouchereau
***** on the right face of the boulder of Double Croche. Sitstart without crash-pad with a vertical hold left hand and an undercling right hand, take a monodoigt left hand and exit above.
Si t'es Petit, Sois Technique 7bwall / dyno-
***** on a boulder located 2 minutes from the parking lot of Belle-Croix, by following the path on the left just after the bareer. Standing start with the right arete, dyno to the top and exit above.
Si t'es Petit, Sois Technique assis 7b+wall / dyno / sitstart-
***** on a boulder located 2 minutes from the parking lot of Belle-Croix, by following the path on the left just after the bareer. Sitstart, take the right arete, dyno to the top and exit above.
Lifestyle 7a+arete / slightly overhangingOlivier Gagneux
***** on an isolated boulder near the parking lot, in the old quarry underneath that one. Standing start or sitstart with horizontal holds and climb the slightly overhanging arete above.

© 1994-2013 bleau.info