Bleau.info : Rocher Saint-Germain : Topo

thanks to Eric Allayaud & Régis Allayaud & Alexis Allayaud & Tony Fouchereau

1	Destudo 4	-	-
voie de gauche sur la face Nord d'un bloc situé au dessus du sentier bleu, entre les lettrines "M" et "N".
2	Vestudo 5	-	-
left problem on the North face of a boulder above the blue path, between the letters "M" and "N".
3	Testudo 6a	-	-
central problem on the North face of a boulder above the blue path, between the letters "M" and "N".
4	Tétragnathe 6a	-	-
on the boulder to the right of Testudo, above the blue path, between the letters "M" and "N".
5	Tête à Claques 5+	-	-
right problem on the South face of a boulder above the blue path, between the letters "M" and "N".
6	Twister 6a+	slightly overhanging / wall	-
between C.Q.F.D and Tête à Claques, on the South face of a boulder above the blue path, between the letters "M" and "N".
7	C.Q.F.D. 6b	slightly overhanging / wall	-
left problem on the South face of a boulder above the blue path, between the letters "M" and "N".
8	Éjection Précoce 7a+	dyno	Alexis Allayaud
dyno from the ground. On the right side of the blue path from Mégalithe in direction of Danse de Printemps.
8'	Brève Éjection 7a	dyno / slopers	-
on the right side of the blue path from Mégalithe in direction of Danse de Printemps. Variant of Éjection Précoce with the left sloper.
9	Précoce Éjection 7a+ (7b+)	traverse / dyno	Alexis Allayaud
on the right side of the blue path from Mégalithe in direction of Danse de Printemps. 1m traverse and finish in Éjection Précoce. The grade depends on the exit.
10	Brigade Chamoniarde 6c	-	-
on a boulder to the East of Éjection Précoce, on the right side of the blue path from Mégalithe in direction of Danse de Printemps.
11	Ulobore 5+	-	-
on the North face of the boulder of Brigade Chamoniarde, to the East of Éjection Précoce, on the right side of the blue path from Mégalithe in direction of Danse de Printemps.
12	Zygielle 6a	-	-
on the boulder to the left of Le Nombril du Monde, 20m to the South-East of Mégalithe.
13	Le Nombril du Monde 7b	traverse frtl	-
on the boulder 20m to the South-East of Mégalithe.
14	Mangore 6b+	traverse frtl	-
on the boulder to the left of Le Nombril du Monde, 20m to the South of Mégalithe.
15	Céréales Killers 6a	expo	-
between Le Repaire de l'Épeire and Mangore, 20m to the South of Mégalithe.
16	Le Repaire de l'Épeire 7a+	traverse frtl	Régis Allayaud
15m above La Route du Luxembourg, on the boulder underneath Le Labyrinthe des Ombres. Start completely right (lichenous), traverse and exit in L'Épeire.
17	Dioda 5-	-	-
15m above La Route du Luxembourg, to the right of Diodie, on the boulder of L'Épeire/A>.
18	Diodie 5	slightly overhanging / mantle	-
15m above La Route du Luxembourg, to the right of L'Épeire/A>.
19	L'Épeire 5+	slightly overhanging / crack / mantle	-
15m above La Route du Luxembourg.
20	Le Labyrinthe des Ombres 7a	overhang / sitstart / mantle	Alexis Allayaud / Eric Allayaud
sitstart to the left of Lydie'lle.
21	Lydie'lle 7b (7b+)	overhang	Régis Allayaud
sitstart to the right of Le Labyrinthe des Ombres, 40 ms to the right of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
22	Argiope 5	-	-
right arete on the boulder above Le Labyrinthe des Ombres.
23	Adiante 6a	slab	-
direct slab on the boulder above Le Labyrinthe des Ombres.
24	Vision Troublante 6b	sitstart	-
on the West face of a boulder underneath Mégalithe.
25	CP'artie 5	-	-
on the North face of a boulder underneath Mégalithe.
26	Argyronète 5	-	-
sur la face Sud d'un bloc situé en dessous de Mégalithe.
28	El Cracoucass 6c+	-	-
left problem on a boulder underneath Mégalithe, in a corridor.
29	Garuda 5+ (6a)	-	-
to the right of El Cracoucass, on a boulder underneath Mégalithe, in a corridor.
30	Kasyapa 4	-	-
left problem on the boulder just underneath Mégalithe.
31	Vinata 5+	-	-
right problem on the boulder just underneath Mégalithe.
32	Mégalight 7b	arete / dyno	Alexis Allayaud
to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre. Left arete in the wall to the left of Mégalithe.
32'	Mégalight assis 7b+	sitstart / arete / dyno	Thierry Plaud
sitstart of Mégalight, to the left of the boulder of Mégalithe. Sitstart and exit via a dyno.
33	Mégalutte 6b+	wall	-
on the boulder of Mégalithe, to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
34	Mégalatte 7a	wall / sitstart / expo	Alexis Allayaud
to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre. To the left of Mégalithe.
35	Mégawatt 7c+ (8a)	traverse	Alexis Allayaud
to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre, on the boulder of Mégalithe. Start in Mégalight, downclimb Mégalutte (6b+ to the right of it) and exit up in Mégalatte.
35'	Mégawatt assis 8a (7c+)	traverse / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart of Mégawatt : sitstart, climb Mégalight, go down Mégalutte (6b+ to the right of it) and exit up in Mégalatte.
36	Mégagratte 6c	-	-
just right of Mégalithe, to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
37	Mégadalle 4	-	-
on the North face of the boulder of Mégalithe, to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
38	Pickpocket 7a	wall	Alexis Allayaud
eliminate on the other side of blue path n°4 from Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
39	Méta 4	-	-
on the South-West face of the boulder above Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre, along the blue path.
40	Rock Bouddhiste 6a	expo	-
on the angle of the boulder above Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre, along the blue path.
41	Zen Garden 6b	-	-
on the North-West face of the boulder above Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre, along the blue path.
42	Le Ventre plus gros que les Yeux 4	-	-
sur la face Sud du bloc situé entre Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre et Symbiose, le long du sentier bleu.
43	Sagesse du Fou 6a	-	-
right problem on the boulder in between Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre and Symbiose, along the blue path.
44	Folie du Sage 6a	-	-
left problem on the boulder in between Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre and Symbiose, along the blue path.
45	Ultime Vanité 7b	traverse frtl / overhang / sitstart	Alexis Allayaud
3m long traverse, on a boulder to the opposite of Mégalithe, on the other side of the blue path.
46	Babord 6c	-	-
to the right of the overhanging prow of Symbiose, along the blue path, on the boulder just after Ultime Vanité (coming from Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre).
47	Symbiose 7c+	pillar / overhang / dyno	Régis Allayaud
at the side of the blue path, on the boulder to the left of Ultime Vanité (coming from Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre).
48	Tribord 4	-	-
to the left of the overhanging prow of Symbiose, along the blue path, on the boulder just after Ultime Vanité (coming from Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre).
49	Arachné 5	-	-
on the North face of Symbiose, along the blue path, on the boulder just after Ultime Vanité (coming from Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre).
50	Orbitèles 6a	-	-
near the letter "K", along the blue path.
51	Pholcus 5+	-	-
on the boulder marked "J".
52	Tégénaire 5	-	-
above the blue path, near the lettre "J".
53	Hypthiote 5+	-	-
on the boulder underneath Métamorphose.
54	Dolomère 4	-	-
right problem on the boulder to the South of Métamorphose, to the opposite of a small path.
55	Cyclose 6a	-	-
left problem on the boulder to the South of Métamorphose, to the opposite of a small path.
56	Peau de Chagrin 7c	dyno / mantle	-
on the left of Métamorphose, on the other side of blue path n°4, three boulders to the left of Symbiose. Doubledyno and mantle.
57	Métamorphose 7a (6c+)	overhang / sitstart	Eric Allayaud
to the right of Peau de Chagrin, on the backside of the boulder, on the other side of blue path n°4, near the boulder marked "K".
58	L'Insensible 7a (7a+)	slab	Régis Allayaud
on the boulder to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
59	Xixi's Wall 7c+ (8a)	wall / slab	Alexis Allayaud
two boulders to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre, to the right of Prose Profane. Morpho.
60	Prose Profane 7a	wall	Eric Allayaud
two boulders to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre, to the left of Xixi's Wall. Without the left arete.
61	Crux Tassé 6c	traverse frtl	-
along the path, just after Prose Profane, coming from Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
62	Le Clone du Clown 6c (6c+)	arete	-
right arete on the boulder behind Prose Profane.
63	Le Clown du Clone 6a (6a+)	-	-
left arete on the boulder behind Prose Profane.
64	Pal Supplice 5+	wall	-
on the North-Western face of the boulder of L'Insensible.
65	Linyphie 5	-	-
on the boulder to the East of Soucis d'Air.
66	Grandeur Nature 4	-	-
on the South face of the boulder of Soucis d'Air, on a big boulder alongside the path 30m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
67	Soucis d'Air debout 6b+ (6c)	dyno	-
on a big boulder alongside the path 30m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
67'	Soucis d'Air 8a	dyno / sitstart	Alexis Allayaud
on a big boulder alongside the path 30m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
68	Chaminix 4	-	-
on the backside of the boulder of Soucis d'Air.
69	Crash Bad 4	-	-
on the boulder behind that of Soucis d'Air.
70	XXL 7a	wall / slopers	Alexis Allayaud
50m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre. Start to the right (morpho).
71	XXL direct 7b+ (7c)	wall / slopers	Alexis Allayaud
50m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre. Direct start of XXL. Morpho.
71'	XXL direct assis 7c+	sitstart / wall / slopers	Alexis Allayaud
50m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre. Sitstart of XXL direct. Morpho.
72	Moka 5	-	-
on a boulder to the North of XXL.
73	H2O 5+	-	-
on a boulder to the North-West of XXL.
74	Ridicule 5+	-	-
on the boulder to the South of Out Système.
75	Out Système 7a	overhang / traverse frtl / expo	Alexis Allayaud
facing Deus Ex Machina, 60m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
76	Course Folle 6b+	-	-
on the boulder of Out Système.
77	Le Labyrinthe de Glace 6c	traverse frtl	-
start on the left face of the boulder of Out Système and exit to the right of that one.
78	Deus Ex Machina 7b	prow / expo	Alexis Allayaud
overhanging prow at the leftside of the path, on the backside of a high boulder, 60m to the left of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
79	Nouvelle Prohibition 6c	-	-
to the right of the path, on the boulder avove Out Système.
80	Le Dôme du Tonnerre 5	-	-
on the second boulder above Out Système.
81	De Grès et de Force 6c	-	-
to the North-West of the sector, above the blue path.
82	Véda 5+ (6a)	-	-
to the right of Le Seuil, to the North-West of the sector, above the blue path, 150m from the parking lot of Belle-Croix.
82'	Le Seuil 6b	-	-
to the left of Véda, to the North-West of the sector, above the blue path, 150m from the parking lot of Belle-Croix.
101	Plaisir d'Offrir 7a+ (7b)	slightly overhanging / sitstart / bidoigt	Tony Fouchereau / Teddy Deschamps
follow for about 100m blue path n°4 after Danse de Printemps.
102	Vulcain 7c (7c+)	slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
follow for about 100m blue path n°4 after Danse de Printemps; right problem on the North face.
103	Lunatic 7b+	slightly overhanging	Teddy Deschamps
follow for about 100m blue path n°4 after Danse de Printemps; left problem on the north face, direct exit (with sitstart?)
104	Fil d'Ariane 6c+	slightly overhanging	Tony Fouchereau
follow for about 100m the GR after Danse de Printemps; second boulder, 50m on the left; left problem on the north face with left exit.
105	Mysteria 7a	wall	Tony Fouchereau / Teddy Deschamps
follow for about 100m blue path n°4 past Danse de Printemps. Left problem on the west face; right exit.
106	Mysteria direct 7c (7c+)	wall	Tony Fouchereau
direct exit of Mysteria; morpho.
106'	Mysteria assis 7c+ (8a)	wall / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart of Mysteria, with direct exit
107	Ariane 4 6c (7a)	dyno	Tony Fouchereau / Teddy Deschamps
follow blue path n°4 for 100m after Danse de Printemps; the problem is located to the left of the path.
108	Jump 7b+ (7c)	slightly overhanging / dyno	Stéphan Denys
left problem with a direct exit on the first boulder direct to the right of the path. Access : follow blue path n°4 for 250m from Danse de Printemps.
108'	Retour d'Ariane 5 7c (7c+)	slightly overhanging / sitstart / dyno	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart version of Jump.
109	Rosetta 7b (7b+)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
follow blue path n°4 for 250m from Danse de Printemps. Right problem on the North face of the first boulder, direct to the right of the path.
110	Fenêtre de Lancement 7a+ (7a)	slopers	Tony Fouchereau / Teddy Deschamps
follow blue path n°4 for 400m from Danse de Printemps. Crouching start and exit directly on the in the North face of the second boulder on the right, 10m from the path.
111	Diagonale des Fous 7a	slopers	Tony Fouchereau / Teddy Deschamps
follow blue path n°4 for 250m from Danse de Printemps. Crouching start and exit to the left on the in the North face of the second boulder on the right, 10m from the path.
112	- 7a (7b)	arete	-
round arete 50m to the left of the path, to the opposite to the second boulder with the letter "Q"; morpho. Access : follow the Sentier Bleu n°4 for about 300m from Danse de Printemps.
113	Rencontre du Troisième Type 7c	prow / slopers	Kevin Lopata
follow blue path n°4 for about 300m from Danse de Printemps; the boulder is 10m to the left near the second boulder with the Q, when the path turns.
113'	Rencontre du Troisième Type assis 8a (8b)	sitstart / prow / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart of Rencontre du Troisième Type. Access : follow blue path n°4 for about 300m from Danse de Printemps; the boulder is 10m to the left near the second boulder with the Q, when the path turns.
114	Pointe à Pitre 7b (7b+)	slightly overhanging / mantle	Stéphan Denys
follow blue path n°4 for about 300m from Danse de Printemps. The boulder is like a tunnel over a path; start with the boulder on the right.
114'	Starting Bloc 7c	dyno / slightly overhanging / mantle	Julien Nadiras
follow blue path n°4 for about 300m from Danse de Printemps; the boulder is like a tunnel over a path. Jumpstart of Pointe à Pitre.
		Outside the topo
L'Artificier 7a+		slab / crimps / traverse fltr	Philippe Le Denmat
diagonal on the boulder of blue n°1. Start at the shell hole (or 1m to its right) and finish in the easiest way to the right as for Lacrima. NB : often confused with Mise au Poing (6c/7a slab on the left).
L'Artificier direct 7c (7b+)		slab	Philippe Le Denmat
on the boulder of blue n°1, to the left of Lacrima. Start in the shell hole (or 1m to its right, 7c) as for L'Artificier and finish directly. NB : exposed to the South (recommended for cold season).
Pungo Pygméus 7b+		wall	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
high wall near the parking of Belle Croix
- 7b+		-	-
in the corridor to the east of Double Croche.
Danse de Printemps 7b+		traverse frtl	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
along blue path n°4, to the west of the its crossing with Route Haüy. Start in a corridor (prolongation around the corner is Sonate d'Automne, 8b+).
Sonate d'Automne 8b+		traverse frtl	Jacky Godoffe
along blue path n°4, to the west of the its crossing with Route Haüy. Prolongation of Danse de Printemps around the corner.
Didgeridoo 8c		traverse / sitstart	Francis Hélias
along blue path n°4, to the west of the its crossing with Route Haüy, on the blouder of Danse de Printemps. Sitstart underneath the bracelet, low until the left arete and back in Sonate d'Automne without the rest.
Amazonia 8c+		traverse	Francis Hélias
along blue path n°4, to the west of the its crossing with Route Haüy, on the boulder of Danse de Printemps. There and back of Sonate d'Automne.
Double Croche 7c+		traverse fltr	Olivier Carrière
to the right of La Route Haüy, before the crossing with blue path n°4.
Mégalithe 7c+		wall / dyno	Stéphan Denys
to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
The Bloc 8a		sitstart / dyno	Marc Le Ménestrel
sitstart of Mégalithe.
Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre 7c+		traverse fltr	Benoît Faure
on the right of blue path n°4, between boulders marked "K" and "L", just before the path turns left.
Psychose 7c+		traverse fltr	Sébastien Frigault
along blue path n°4, after the crossing with Route Haüy. Stay low (8a high).
Maharadja (aller-retour de Psychose) 8b+ (8c)		traverse	Francis Hélias
along the blue path n°4, after the crossing with La Route Haüy. There and back of Psychose, by starting to the left of that problem. Opened in 2003.
Sica Danse 8a		traverse	-
near the parking of Belle Croix. NB : this was a traverse plastered with sica; after a polemic about the use of sica, the opener removed the sica, such that the route is not possible anymore.
La Cité Perdue 7c+		traverse frtl	Sébastien Frigault
the boulder is to the right of La Route Haüy, before the crossing with La Route des Grès Pétrifiés.
Lacrima 7c+ (8b)		slab	Loïc Le Denmat
straight up of blue n°1, to the left of L'Artificier (same exit). Low start is 8b.
Mouvement Icarien 6c+		dyno / overhang	Alexis Allayaud
alongside the route du Mont St-Germain, 1km from the cristalcave (Grotte aux Cristaux).
Affirmatif 7a		dyno	Manuel Marquès
on the boulder to the right of yellow n°8, 20m behind the slab of L'Artificier. Start with two sideholds on the left of Y'a pas de P qui Compte.
Y'a pas de P qui Compte 7c		sitstart / overhang	Manuel Marquès
on the boulder to the right of yellow n°8, 20m behind the slab of L'Artificier. Sitstart to the right of Affirmatif, via big holds along the right, exit left on the chipped "P".
Triste Sir 7a+		dyno / sitstart	Alexis Allayaud
to the right of the start of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
Patati 7c		bidoigt	Manuel Marquès
behind blue n°28, facing yellow n°27. Start on a two finger pocket and exit to the left of a green triangle.
Opération Plats du Désert 8a+		dyno / mantle / expo	Manuel Marquès
behindblue n°28, facing yellow n°27. After the low traverse ltr, double dyno to a sloper and mantle (blue line in picture).
Vague Patatras 8a+ (8a)		traverse frtl / belly / prow	Manuel Marquès
behind blue n°28, facing yellow n°27. Low traverse and exit in a prow (red line in photo). 8a without the traverse.
Sortie UNSS 6b (6c)		roof / dyno	Manuel Marquès
small roof behind blue n°21.
Béa Prise Dalle 4+		-	-
former start of the blue circuit.
Mise au Poing 7a		slab	Philippe Le Denmat
direct slab to the left of the shell hole (6c starting from the right).
Partage 8a		traverse fltr	-
to the right of blue path n°4, after Danse de Printemps; several direct 7a/b problems (with sitstart) are possible on this boulder.
Le Tour de Partage 8a+		traverse fltr	Christian Roumégoux
complete lap of the boulder of Partage. Start to the left of a wall, pass an arete, traverse in the wall, continue in Partage and come back to the starting point.
Délire Onirique 8a+		overhang / mantle	Kevin Lopata
direct from the start of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre.
Le Décapsuleur 7a		slightly overhanging / underclings / dyno	Laurent Darlot
in between Pointe à Pitre and Rencontre du Troisième Type. Start in a corridor with two crimps, take an undercling (bad feet), dyno to the top and exit via a mantle on the right.
Le Guerrier Gris 7c+		slightly overhanging	Thierry Plaud
40m above and to the West of Éjection Précoce (and 200m underneath Mégalithe). Standing start in a pit and climb the T-Rex-style prow.
Au Royaume des Aveugles 7c+		overhang / slopers / monos	Thierry Plaud
on the backside of the boulder with Le Guerrier Gris, 40m above and to the West of Éjection Précoce (and 200m underneath Mégalithe). Standing start in a pit and climb the bowl-shaped boulder exposed to the North using slopers and a monodoigt.
Au Royaume des Aveugles (du fond) 8a		overhang / slopers / monos	Christian Roumégoux
low start of Au Royaume des Aveugles, on the backside of the boulder of Guerrier Gris, 40m above and to the West of Éjection Précoce. Start with hands and feet on the small boulder under the overhang, climb the roof using a mono and exit in the classical version (12 moves).
Les Gardes Forestiers sont bien Sympas 7a+ (7b)		traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
along the blue path n°4, to the opposite of Danse de Printemps.
L'Art de la Fugue 8a		slightly overhanging	Johann Guillaume / Jean-Baptiste Jourjon
to the left of the tree, on the boulder of Les Yeux plus Gros que le Ventre. Standing start and exit directly on slopers using a small hold left hand.
- 6c		wall / mantle	Johann Guillaume
just under the blue path n°4, in between the boulder of Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre and Mégalithe.
Mégaloutre 7c		wall / arete	Maxime Prodhomme / Romuald Bussy
angle just right of Mégalithe, to the right of blue path n°4, between the boulders marked "L" and "M", beyond Les Yeux Plus Gros que le Ventre. Start to the right with a crimp left hand and the arete right hand, climb this one and finish with the exit hold of Mégalithe.

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