Bleau.info : Areas : Roche d'Hercule : 7a and harder

Roche d'Hercule : 7a and harder

1 to 24 of 24 boulders

Other overviews 7a and harder: 17 straight-ups, 7 traverses
Topos: Roche d'Hercule (Gilles Cottray)

Idiotie 6b+ (7a)	roof / mantle	Pepito
topo nº19b; along the blue path, 250m above La Roche d'Hercule, on the boulder marked "I". Start in the roof at the left arete, climb the ledge of that one without convention (6b+) or using a crimp (7a, "Kikinatov") and exit at the angle as for Rince-Mi. See also: Abribus 7a+
Pilier de la Roche d'Hercule assis 6c+ (7a)	overhang / sitstart / high	-
sitstart of Pilier de la Roche d'Hercule. See also: Pilier de la Roche d'Hercule 6b (6c)
M'Éprise 6c+ (7a)	traverse frtl / pockets	Gilles Cottray
topo nº29; traverse on two faces, underneath the blue path, 40m from Rêve Errance, just past the crossing with La Route de l'Abbé Guénée when coming from La Roche d'Hercule. Start at the right angle with a pierced pocket, traverse a first face on round holds, pass the angle, continue in the second face with low big pockets and exit at the very end. NB : the boulder has recently been rebrushed (April 2011).
Gravité 7a (6c+)	wall / bidoigt / expo	Gilles Cottray
topo nº14; to the oppposite of the boulder marked "G", along the blue path, northridge above "La Roche d'Hercule" (yellow circuit). From Le Carrefour du Mont Ussy, take the path to the left of La Route de la Butte aux Aires, then the blue path on the left; the boulder is 50m further, after a tunnel.
Gazoline 7a	slightly overhanging	Philippe Le Denmat
second problem to the left of Le Pilier, on the "Roche d'Hercule". Start with the jug and exit to the right. See also: La Traversée de Gazoline 7b+
Orange Mécanique 7a	wall	Nicolas Doignon
between Gazoline and Le Pilier, on La Roche d'Hercule.
Kérosène 7a	traverse fltr / slightly overhanging	Eric Létot
standing start to the left of Gazoline, traverse to the start of that one, continue to the right and exit in Le Pilier de la Roche d'Hercule. See also: Kérosène assis 7b
Fenbren le gauche 7a	slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstart	Marc Lehner / Louis Dalençon
topo nº24'''; on the second part of the platière after Rince-Mi, to the right of Pas de Panique. Sitstart to the right of El Velibo with both hands on the step as for Fenbren le Fou but exit on the left by a dynamic move from the arete. See also: Fenbren le Fou 7b
Dyslexie assis 7a	pillar / slopers / sitstart	Marc Lehner
on the boulder to the left of La Roche d'Hercule (boulder of Mon Ami Pierrot). Sitstart without crash-pad and climb the pillar of Dyslexie. See also: Dyslexie 6c
Rince-Mi 7a (7a+)	roof / mantle	Gilles Cottray
topo nº19; to the left of Rince-Doigts, along the blue path, 250m above La Roche d'Hercule, on the boulder marked "I". Start at the bottom of the roof and exit via the left angle.
Rince-Doigts 7a (7a+)	roof / mantle	Gilles Cottray
topo nº20; along the blue path, 250m above La Roche d'Hercule, on the boulder marked "I". Start at the bottom of the roof and exit 2m to the right of Rince-Mi.
Premier de Corvée 7a (7a+)	traverse frtl / bidoigt / pockets	Gilles Cottray
topo nº0; just left of La Route des Butte aux Aires, 100m past La Roche d'Hercule. Start from the pillar and traverse in the South face. NB : the difficulty depends on the starting point (broken hold?)
Trop Beau pour Toit 7a+ (7a)	roof	Loïc de Saint Etienne / Guillaume Joubert
topo nº21; low start completely right, climb the roof, traverse to the left with the ledge and exit via the angle left of Rince-Mi. NB : the same problem without using the ledge of the overhang is an old project. See also: Idée Courte 6b+, Idée Fixe 6c+
Mon Ami Pierrot 7a+	traverse frtl	Franck Merckel
on the boulder to the left of La Roche d'Hercule. Sitstart in the corridor, traverse to the left in the tunnel, pass a nameless pillar and exit completely to the left of the boulder.
Cahin-Caha 7a+	traverse frtl / slab	-
on the boulder to the right of La Roche d'Hercule. Start at the right angle, traverse on big holds, pass the arete of De-Ci De-Là and exit in the slab to the left without the base boulder.
Abribus 7a+	roof / traverse	Pascal Etienne
loop on the boulder marked "I", along the blue path, 250m above La Roche d'Hercule. Start in the middle of the roof at a step, low traverse to the left, climb the left arete and then the ledge as for Idiotie, pass the exit angle of Rince-Mi, continue to traverse to the right with top holds, downclimb on rather fragile holds low traverse to the left for 1m50 and exit in Idée Fixe. See also: Idiotie 6b+ (7a)
Percolation Critique 7b	overhang / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
from the parking lot of Carrefour du Mont Ussy (Rocher d'Hercule), take the Route du Mont Ussy for 200m in direction of the main sector, and turn right at a path for 20m. The boulder is on the right, among a small chaos, just above an old yellow number. Sitstart and exit via the crack. See also: Percolation Aléatoire 7b
Percolation Aléatoire 7b	overhang / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
from the parking lot of Carrefour du Mont Ussy (Rocher d'Hercule), take the Route du Mont Ussy for 200m in direction of the main sector, and turn right at a path for 20m. The boulder is on the right, among a small chaos, just above an old yellow number. Sitstart and exit directly. See also: Percolation Critique 7b
Fenbren le Fou 7b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Loïc de Saint Etienne
topo nº24''; on the second part of the platière after Rince-Mi, to the right of Pas de Panique. Sitstart to the right of El Velibo with both hands on the step and exit directly in the axe of the starting holds. See also: Fenbren le gauche 7a
Kérosène assis 7b	traverse fltr / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Cédric Morel
sitstart to the left of Gazoline, traverse to the start of that one, continue to the right and exit in Le Pilier de la Roche d'Hercule. See also: Kérosène 7a
Sotos 7b	overhang	Olivier Roman
topo nº26b; 1m to the right of Rêve Errance, 100m to the East of Rince-Mi. Start in the back of the overhanging prow, to the left of the boulder marked "G", along the northridge blue path above "La Roche d'Hercule". Standing start with the lip of the roof and exit above with a characteristic small crack.
De-Ci De-Là 7b+ (7b)	arete / slopers	Manuel Marquès
just right of the boulder of La Roche d'Hercule. Start at the arete as for Gros Bidon, but exit directly using only slopers on both sides. See also: Gros Bidon 6b
La Traversée de Gazoline 7b+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Emmanuel Gand
on the big boulder of La Roche d'Hercule. Sitstart under the character X, traverse to the left, pass the pillar up to the start of Gazoline and exit in that one. See also: Gazoline 7a
Rêve Errance 7c (7c+)	prow / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
topo nº26; 100m to the East of Rince-Mi. Start in the back of the overhanging prow, to the left of the boulder marked "G", along the northridge blue path above "La Roche d'Hercule".

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