Bleau.info : Franchard Isatis : Topo

1Iceberg raccourci 7a+overhang / wallJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 1 photo ] to the right of red n°50, on the right side of the big roof. Climb only the exit of Iceberg, without using the gully at the right.
1Le Mouvement Perpétuel 8btraverseJacky Godoffe
start to the right of blue n°11, downclimb La Charcuterie, go up in L'Araignée, downclimb again La Charcuterie and exit in L'Angle Incarné.
2Iceberg 7c (7c+)traverse / roof-
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 3 realvideos ]  [ 17 photos ] on the boulder with red n°50. Sitstart low on the left, traverse to the right under the overhang and exit up over the right side, without using the gully on the right.
2Iceberg avec boucle 8a+traverse / roofJean-Pierre Bouvier
***** low sitstart to the left and traverse to the right under the overhang as for Iceberg, come back along the lip, downclimb to the starting point and finish up in Iceberg.
2Iceberg en aller-retour 7c+traverse / roof-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 6 photos ] low sitstart on the left and traverse to the right under the overhang as for Iceberg, come back to the left along the lip and exit in red n°50.
3Abdolobotomy 7asitstart / pinches / slopers-
*****  [ 1 photo ] five meters to the left of De Vita Beata. Sitstart in the middle with a heelhook to the left on the ramp, exit to the right via the summit with a pinch and slopers.
3Abdolobotomy debout 6bprow-
***** standing start of Abdolobotomy.
4De Vita Beata 8a (7c+)overhangJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the boulder to the left of n°53 red. Low start on underclings.
6Virage Dangereux 7atraverse frtl-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 11 photos ] on the boulder of De Brevitate Vitae, at the end of the red circuit. Start on the South face, 4m from the angle, traverse on slopers, pass the angle over a stone, traverse the other face and exit in red n°51.
6bLa Longue Route 7ctraverse frtlMarco Dunand
***** long traverse on three faces on the boulder of De Brevitate Vitae, at the end of the red circuit. Start just left of red n°55, make the back traverse of La Traversée de De Brevitate Vitae, pass a round angle with top holds, downclimb to the start of Virage Dangereux and continue in this problem to exit in red n°52.
7La Traversée de De Brevitate Vitae 7atraverse fltr / arete-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] start 2m left of De Brevitate Vitae and exit in the arete to the right. NB : the combination of the traverse to the jug on the right of De Brevitate Vitae, return and exit in De Brevitate vitae seems to be 7a+/7b.
8De Brevitate Vitae 7asitstart / overhangJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 2 videos ]  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 6 photos ] to the opposite of red n°56. Sitstart in the overhang and exit in the belly above.
8bDe Brevitate Vitae gauche 7aroof / sitstart-
***** to the opposite of red n°56. Sitstart in the overhang as for De Brevitate Vitae, traverse to the left and exit in the left face, with a vertical hold right hand on the arete.
9Quartier Latin 7aoverhang / mantle / sitstartyann kispredilov
*****  [ 4 photos ] 1m to the right of De Brevitate Vitae. Sitstart in the small overhang to the right of De Brevitate Vitae, dyno to the pocket (without using the holds on the left) and exit directly via a mantle in the slab.
11Froggy Dick 7bdynoMarc Montchaussé
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 2 photos ] in the corridor, to the opposite of the slab of red n°55.
12Saga 6bcrackPepito
***** crack to the left of Le Surplomb Feuilleté, on the West face of the boulder of red n°53. NB : rebrushed (May 2007).
13Burn to Shine 7c (7c+)overhang / arete / sitstartJean-Baptiste Jourjon
 [ 1 photo ] on the backside of the boulder with red n°53 and red n°54. Sitstart 2m to the right of Le Surplomb Feuilleté, climb the overhang and exit via the arete.
14Le Surplomb Feuilleté droite 6c+overhang / wall-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] on the backside of the boulder with red n°53 and red n°54. Standing start with the good holds and exit to the right.
14Le Surplomb Feuilleté droite (départ bas) 7a+overhang / wall-
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 3 photos ] on the backside of the boulder with red n°53 and red n°54. Start in the roof and exit to the right (exit only is 6c+).
15Le Surplomb Feuilleté gauche 6coverhang / wall-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] on the backside of the boulder with red n°53 and red n°54. Start with good holds and exit to the left.
15Le Surplomb Feuilleté gauche (départ bas) 7aoverhang / wall-
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 15 photos ] on the backside of the boulder with red n°53 and red n°54. Start in the roof and exit to the left (exit only is 6c).
16- 5+ (6a)crack / sitstart-
***** sitstart of the crack 2m50 to the left of Le Surplomb Feuilleté, on the backside of the boulder of red n°53.
17Le Concombre Masqué raccourci 6a+ (6b)sitstart / overhang-
***** to the right of red n°56. Sitstart and exit directly.
18La Fissure Évasée 7a (7a+)crackAntoine Melchior
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] direct crack (without the crimp on the right in the wall) to the right of red n°56.
18La Fissure Évasée assis 7b+crack / sitstart-
***** sitstart of the crack to the right of red n°56 and exit directly.
18bLa Fissure Évasée droite 6bcrack / wall / crimps-
***** to the right of red n°56. Climb the crack left hand by using the crimp on the right in the wall.
19Le Roi des Voleurs 7asitstart / overhang / crimpsJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] to the right of red n°56, on the boulder facing De Brevitate vitae. Sitstart in a small overhang and direct exit on crimps.
20Le Concombre Masqué 7c+ (8a)traverse fltrJean-Pierre Bouvier
 [ 2 photos ] start to the right of red n°56 and exit in Apesanteur.
21Apesanteur 6aslightly overhanging / sitstart-
***** left problem on the boulder of red n°56, to the opposite of red n°57.
22Bouddha assis 6bslightly overhanging / sitstart-
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] right problem on the boulder of red n°56, to the opposite of red n°57.
23- 6b+prow / slightly overhanging-
*****  [ 7 photos ] small overhanging prow in the slope, just left of Surplomb Feuilleté, underneath the boulder with red n°53 and red n°54.
24Le Chemin des Lames 7b (7a+)traverse frtl / crimps / sitstart-
***** on the boulder of Green Pisse, 10m to the left of Le Surplomb Feuilleté, on the North face of the crest. Sitstart just right of the right angle, traverse to the left with crimps and exit by a mantle on the left angle.
25Green Pisse 6bwall / crimps / mantlePascal Etienne
on the boulder of the traverse of Le Chemin des Lames, in between a nameless 6b+ prow and L'Homme Pressé, in the North site of the crest, 10m after Le Surplomb Feuilleté. Start to the left green streak and exit by a mantle above.
26L’homme Pressé 6acrack / expoPascal Etienne
right problem of the North face of the boulder 15m to the left of Le Surplomb Feuilleté, to the North of red n°57.
27Pin’s 5+slab / expoPascal Etienne
central problem of the North face of the boulder 15m to the left of Le Surplomb Feuilleté, to the North of red n°57.
28Les Mickeys 4wall / slab / expoPascal Etienne
left problem of the North face of the boulder 15m to the left of Le Surplomb Feuilleté, to the North of red n°57.
30La Grisaille 7b+traverse fltrJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 25 photos ] on the right of red n°57, without the top holds.
31Cadence Infernale 6a+slab / crimpsPepito
***** diagonal to the right on the boulder of red n°57 crossing the 7b traverse of Grisaille.
32Donnant-Donnant 7a (7a+)slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart-
***** sitstart in a small pit underneath a roof to the left of red n°60 as for Le Lot de Boudins, climb the overhang with an undercling right hand and exit with crimps 1m to the right of Plastikman.
32Le Lot de Boudins 7ctraverse fltr / crimpsJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 11 photos ] sitstart in a small pit underneath a roof to the left of red n°60, traverse on crimps and exit after the "nose".
32Le Lot de Boudins en aller-retour 7c+traverse / crimps / sitstartChristian Roumégoux
***** sitstart in a small pit underneath a roof to the left of red n°60, traverse on crimps up to the "nose" as for Le Lot de Boudins, come back and exit on the left of the face in Plastikman.
33Plastikman 7aoverhang / sitstartJan De Smit / Jonas Bracke
*****  [ 2 videos ]  [ 2 photos ] sitstart as for Le Lot de Boudins but exit directly on the left of the boulder with crimps or using a dyno.
36La Traversée du Tire-au-Cul 6c+ (7a)traverse fltr / slopersTony Fouchereau / François-Xavier Joubert
on the boulder of red n°58 (boulder to the opposite of Le Lot de Boudins). Sitstart in La Fissure, traverse to the right, pass the angle with low holds, downclimb at the crack, continue to traverse with top slopers and exit in red n°58.
36bLa Traversée du Tire-au-Cul retour 7a (7a+)traverse frtl / slopers / crackFrançois-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder of red n°58 (boulder to the opposite of Le Lot de Boudins). Sitstart in red n°58, traverse to the left on slopers, downclimb at the crack, pass the angle with low holds and exit in the left face in La Fissure.
37La Fissure 5crack-
on the North face of the boulder with red n°58 and red n°59. Sitstart is 5c/6a.
38La Relance Économique de droite 6bwall / arete-
to the right of La Relance Économique (red n°59), with the right side of the angle.
39Coup de Bambou 6b+slabLoïc Le Denmat
direct slab between Amigo and red n°59.
40Amigo 6cwall / slabPhilippe Le Denmat
start 2m to the left of red n°59 and exit with the arete left hand.
50rLe Presse-Papiers 5+--
***** red 50 |
51rLe Coup de Chaud 5-wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 51 | sitstart is 5c.
52rL'Antigel 5-wall-
***** red 52 |
53rL'Angle Arrondi 5arete / slopers-
*****  [ 3 photos ] red 53 |
54Le Marbre Brisé 5+ (5)wall / dyno-
*****  [ 2 photos ] red 54 |
55La Râpeuse 4+slab-
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 55 |
56rL'Oreille en Coin 5-arete-
***** red 56 |
57rLe Bouche-Trou 4wall-
*****  [ 4 photos ] red 57 | sitstart is 5a.
58rLa Tire-au-Cul 5- (5)wall / slab / crimps-
***** red 58 |
59rLa Relance Économique 5 (5+)wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 59 |
60rLa Tire-au-But 5slab / expo-
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 60 |

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