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Mare aux Joncs : 7a and harder

1 to 12 of 12 boulders

Topos: Blocs perdus du Coquibus

Coucou Bernique droite 6c+ (7a)slightly overhanging / slab / sitstartThierry Guéguen
in a in the small overhang behind a hill, 20m to the East of Fest Noz. Low sitstart with two flakes as for Coucou Bernique, but exit on the right in the slab.
Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin du Petit Mont Rouget and take on the right Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne (GR) for 90m. At a pine tree on the right of the GR, follow a small path for 80m : the boulder is just behind the hill.

See also: Coucou Bernique 6b+ (6c)

Le Jeu de Paume 7a (6c+)slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstartChristian Roumégoux
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] on a boulder 20m to the right of Imiter, C'est Limité. Sitstart in the overhang, climb a big flake and exit by a dyno to the ledge.
See also: La Boucle du Jeu de Paume 7b

Fest Noz assis 7aslightly overhanging / sitstart / highThierry Guéguen
***** to the left of Fest Deiz, in a 5-6 meters high boulder behind a little hill. Sitstart in the middle of the face (or on the right ledge) and exit directly.
Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin du Petit Mont Rouget and take on the right Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne (GR) for 90m. At a pine tree on the right of the GR, follow a small path for 80m : the boulder is just behind the hill.

See also:  [ 5 photos ]  Fest Noz 6c (6c+)

Fest Deiz 7a (7a+)slightly overhanging / highLaurent Julien
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 11 photos ] right problem in a 5-6 meters high boulder behind a little hill. Start to the right of Fest Noz and exit at the same point of that problem. 7b with a sitstart on the horizontal ledge.
Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin du Petit Mont Rouget and take on the right Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne (GR) for 90m. At a pine tree on the right of the GR, follow a small path for 80m : the boulder is just behind the hill.

See also: Fest Deiz assis 7b

- 7a+prow / slightly overhanging / sitstartEric Allayaud
*****  [ 3 photos ] slightly overhanging prow with a green arrow exposed to the South-East, 50m past Coup de Patte, near the North summit of the Coquibus.
Access (15mn) : from the third parking lot from Courances to Arbonne, follow le chemin du petit Mont Rouget 300m to the South, take le chemin de la Juniperaie to the left for 200m, then le chemin de la gorge aux Poiriers for 250m. The boulder is then 200m from the path, 50m after Coup de Patte.


Imiter, C'est Limité 7a+roof / dynoChristian Roumégoux
***** jump start on the right part of the roof of Trois Trous de Suspension.
Access : follow the road from Courances to Arbonne to the last parking lot, 150m before the entrance for the staff of the toll way; take the path of Petit Mont Rouget up to crossing of the Chemin de la Junipéraie. Walk several meters left to the Carrefour (crossroads) du Petit Mont Rouget (road sign n°44); take a small path in a clear area just in front of the road sign; the roof is 40 meters far, slightly on the right, behind a hill.


- 7a+ (7b)wall / mantleManuel Marquès
*****  [ 1 photo ] vertical problem with a mantle, completely right on the right face of Trois Trous de Suspension.

Fest Deiz assis 7bslightly overhanging / sitstart / highLaurent Julien
***** right problem in a 5-6 meters high boulder behind a little hill. Sitstart on the horizontal ledge to the right of Fest Noz and exit at the same point of that problem.
Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin du Petit Mont Rouget and take on the right Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne (GR) for 90m. At a pine tree on the right of the GR, follow a small path for 80m : the boulder is just behind the hill.

See also:  [ 11 photos ]  Fest Deiz 7a (7a+)

La Boucle du Jeu de Paume 7bloop / slightly overhanging / dynoNeil Hart / Gérald Coste
on a boulder 20m to the right of Imiter, C'est Limité. Sitstart at the left angle of Le Jeu de Paume, climb that one, traverse to the right with top holds, downclimb 1m to the right of the exit, come back to the left up to the sitstart of Le Jeu de Paume and exit by that one.
See also:  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 1 photo ]  Le Jeu de Paume 7a (6c+)

Coup de Patte 7c (7c+)sitstart / overhang / dynoThierry Plaud
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 5 photos ] 60° overhang with a dyno crux, 250/300m behind Trois Trous de Suspension, near the North summit of the Coquibus. Sitstart, climb the left arete, dyno right hand to a good hold and exit via a mantle.
Access (15mn) : from the third parking lot from Courances to Arbonne, follow le chemin du petit Mont Rouget 300m to the South, take le chemin de la Juniperaie to the left for 200m, then le chemin de la gorge aux Poiriers for 250m. The boulder is then 150m from the path, near the summit of the hill, exposed to the South-East.


Le Tri-Phasé 7c+roof / pocketsChristian Roumégoux
***** in the overhang of Imiter, C'est Limité. Start at the bottom and exit in the simplest way, slightly to the left.

Trois Trous de Suspension 8aroofChristian Roumégoux
*****  [ 4 photos ] start at the bottom and exit to the right in Imiter, C'est Limité.

1 to 12 of 12 boulders

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