Bleau.info : Areas : Long Boyau : straight-ups 7a and harder

Long Boyau : straight-ups 7a and harder

1 to 25 of 41 boulders < next boulders

Other overviews 7a and harder: 49 straight-ups + traverses, 8 traverses
Topos: Topo Mont Aigu (Tony Fouchereau), Topo Secteur Cosmos (Tony Fouchereau)

Le Monde du Silence 6c (7a)	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
topo nº17; on the first boulder to the West of Peau d'Âne, underneath the blue path. Sitstart at the bottom of the prow and exit by a mantle on the slab above.
AA+ 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Cyril Roques
topo nº32; on a boulder underneath Le Mérou. Sistart to the right of the arete, climb the overhang and exit by a mantle above.
Ric et Rac 6c+ (7a)	wall	Philippe Le Denmat
topo nº12; n°24 of the topo du Mont Aigu - Long Boyau, above the blue path, just after the boulder marked "H". NB : the problem looks like "Tonsure" at Bas Cuvier. (GPS: N48.398380 E2.664770) See also: Ric et Rac droite 7a+ (7b)
Le Séquençage droite 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Cyril Roques / Alexis Richard
topo nº20; on the second boulder to the West of Peau d'Âne, underneath the blue path. Sitstart (without crash-pad) with two crimps on the right of the boulder, climb the overhang and exit by a mantle above. See also: Le Séquençage 7b+ (7b)
ÉcoOcéan 6c+ (7a)	arete / slightly overhanging / expo	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
topo nº42; on a boulder to the right of La Route de Froidour, before the crossing with the blue path, when going up the slope from the start of the blue circuit. Hanging start from the ledge without the small boulders or the pedestal and exit directly by the arete above. See also: ÉcoOcéan droite 6c (6c+)
Les Rides du Temps direct 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
topo nº23; topo nº23; on a boulder in the slope 50m above La Route des Gorges de Franchard before the crossing with La Route Henriquez. Sitstart (on a crash-pad for small climbers) at a good crack, climb that one, go slightly right in the overhang and exit by a mantle above (a 6c/6c+ exit is also possible via the right arete). Access : From La Route des Gorges de Franchard, take a path 20m before La Route Henriquez; the boulder is on the left of that one. See also: Les Rides du Temps 7a (6c+)
La Magie du Cosmos 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Thierry Vasseur / Tony Fouchereau
to the opposite of the boulder marked "G", along the blue path. Sitstart on the left of the boulder, climb the overhanging arete and exit at the top. Access : from the parking lot of La Faisanderie and La Route des Gorges de Franchard, take La Route Henriquez to the left up the slope and follow the blue path on the right (20 minutes). It is also possible to start from Le Carrefour des Gorges de Franchard and follow directly the blue path (15 minutes). See also: La Magie du Cosmos droite 7a+ (7a)
L'Œuf Cosmique 7a (6c+)	slightly overhanging / slopers	François-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
topo nº18; topo nº18; on a boulder in the slope 50m above La Route des Gorges de Franchard before the crossing with La Route Henriquez. Standing start in a pit and exit directly above. Access : From La Route des Gorges de Franchard, take a path 20m before La Route Henriquez; the boulder is on the right of that one. See also: L'Œuf Cosmique droite 7b+ (7b)
Circulez, y'a Rien à Boire 7a (6c+)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Patrick Lefaucheur / Tony Fouchereau
topo nº4; left problem on the third boulder to the right of La Route du Mont Fessas, 150m from Le Carrefour de L'Émerillon. Sitstart on the left of the arete, climb the slighty overhanging wall and exit by a mantle above without using the left part of the boulder (three possibilities to mantle up).
Double A 7a (6c+)	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
topo nº24; in the slope, underneath the blue path, between Peau d'Âne and Le Mérou. Sitstart on the right with slopers, climb the overhanging arete and exit at the top.
Les Rides du Temps 7a (6c+)	slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
topo nº24; topo nº24; on a boulder in the slope 50m above La Route des Gorges de Franchard before the crossing with La Route Henriquez. Sitstart (on a crash-pad for small climbers) at a good crack, dyno to the right arete and exit by a mantle in the wall on the right. Access : From La Route des Gorges de Franchard, take a path 20m before La Route Henriquez; the boulder is on the left of that one. See also: Les Rides du Temps direct 6c+ (7a)
Le Problème de l'Ajustement Fin 7a (6c+)	arete / mantle / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
topo nº5; topo nº5; right problem on a boulder above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 10m before the crossing with la Route de la Chouette. Sitstart without crash-pad to the right of Constante Cosmologique with a good hold right hand, climb the arete without touching the boulder on the right and exit by a mantle above.
Les Trois Cloches direct 7a	slab	Christian Portes
n°2b of the topo du Mont Aigu - Long Boyau, to the left of La Route du Mont Fessas from Le Carrefour de L'Émerillon. See also: Les Trois Cloches 6c
Le Trou de Balle 7a	slightly overhanging / wall / sitstart	Alex Bremmer / Matt Moreau
topo nº2; on the second boulder to the right of La Route du Mont Fessas, 150m from Le Carrefour de L'Émerillon. Sitstart without crash-pad, climb the arete with a small pocket and exit on slopers on the left wall. See also: Le Trou de Balle de droite 7c+ (7c)
Le Mimétisme 7a	wall / arete / mantle	François-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
topo nº45; on a boulder to the right of La Route de Froidour, after the crossing with the blue path. Standing start in the pit with an undercling right hand and a sloper left hand and exit directly. NB : a sitstart had been done but the initial grade of 7a+/7b has to be revised after a hold broke off.
Le Génome Humain 7a+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Cyril Roques / Alexis Richard
topo nº22; on the second boulder to the West of Peau d'Âne, underneath the blue path. Sitstart on the left of the boulder with good holds, traverse to the right and exit by a mantle at the top of the boulder. See also: Le Génome Humain gauche 6b (6b+)
La Magie du Cosmos droite 7a+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
to the opposite of the boulder marked "G", along the blue path. Sitstart on the stone on the right of the overhang with the two hands on a mouth-shaped hold, traverse slightly to the left and xexit as for La Magie du Cosmos. Access : from the parking lot of La Faisanderie and La Route des Gorges de Franchard, take La Route Henriquez to the left up the slope and follow the blue path on the right (20 minutes). It is also possible to start from Le Carrefour des Gorges de Franchard and follow directly the blue path (15 minutes). See also: La Magie du Cosmos 6c+ (7a)
Le Mérou 7a+	arete	Philippe Le Denmat
topo nº36; n°26 of the topo du Mont Aigu - Long Boyau, on the boulder marked "G" just below blue path n°8. (GPS: N48.398820 E2.663870)
El Desdichado 7a+	arete / expo	Loïc Le Denmat
topo nº15; n°22 of the topo du Mont Aigu - Long Boyau. Arete to the left of Peau d'Âne. Lichened (June 2009). (GPS: N48.398620 E2.665170)
Twist and Shout 7a+	slightly overhanging / crack / sitstart	Thomas Collignon / Matt Moreau
topo nº38; on the boulder just above Transformers, at the fork of the blue circuit, going up the slope from the start of the blue circuit. Sitstart in the middle with a good undercling and exit above.
La Vie Est un Jeu 7a+	slightly overhanging / underclings / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
topo nº11; on a boulder just under the crest, to the left and above Ric et Rac. Sitstart with a vertical hold left hand and an oblique hold right hand, climb the overhang without the pedestal, take good underclings and exit to the right above a boulder. NB : 6c with the pedestal.
Constante Cosmologique 7a+	wall / crack / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
topo nº4; topo nº4; left problem on a boulder above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 10m before the crossing with la Route de la Chouette. Sitstart at an evident crack and exit statically above. NB : a dynamic method is also possible (6c/6c+).
Cellulose direct 7a+	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
topo nº8; topo nº8; on the North face of a boulder above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 10m before the crossing with la Route de la Chouette. Sitstart with a good pocket right hand as for Cellulose and exit directly by a mantle without using the left arete. See also: Cellulose 6b
L'Expansion de l'Univers 7a+	wall / crimps / dyno	Tony Fouchereau
topo nº6; topo nº6; on the boulder underneath Cellulose, above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 10m before the crossing with la Route de la Chouette. Standing start with a vertical ledge right hand, dyno to a crimp left hand and exit above.
Ric et Rac droite 7a+ (7b)	wall / slopers / dyno	Tony Fouchereau
topo nº12b; above the blue path, just after the boulder marked "H". Start right with a big hold right hand, take a sloper left hand, and exit in Ric et Rac. (GPS: N48.398380 E2.664770) See also: Ric et Rac 6c+ (7a)

1 to 25 of 41 boulders < next boulders