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Coquibus Longs Vaux : 7a and harder

1 to 25 of 58 boulders < next boulders

Other overviews 7a and harder: 49 straight-ups9 traverses
Topos: Topo secteur Fata Morgana, Mini topo Bois des Longs Vaux (Frédéric Buc), La Roche Feuilletée (Jean-Claude Valluet), Blocs perdus du Coquibus

Le Bout du Gland 6c (7a)overhang / sitstartCédric Chatagnon / François-Xavier Joubert
***** on an isolated boulder on the left of the road when coming to the parking lot. Sitstart to the left, tarverse under the overhand and exit on the "nose" of that one.
Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux to the West for 60m, take a small path to the left and go up the slope for 50m : the boulder is near the top of the hill.


- 7a (6c+)slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstartEric Allayaud
***** just right of the big boulder of i-Ball, 100m to the right and underneath Fourmiz. Sitstart with an undercling right hand, take a big jug and exit above by a mantle.
Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, and turn to the right on a path in a small valley 100m before the access to Fata Morgana. The boulder is near the top of the slope.


Les Assis 7aoverhang / mantle / sitstartAlain Denis
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 9 photos ] n°4 of the topo Coquibus Ouest, on the first boulder near the parking lot. Sitstart, make a heelhook and exit via a mantle.

Épaule et Jeté 7adyno / overhang / areteFrédéric Buc
***** n°22 of the topo Coquibus Ouest, 30m underneath Belle du Jour. Sitstart underneath the roof, exit via the angle.

Descends ta Mère 7atraverse frtl / crackFrédéric Buc
***** n°6 of the Mini topo du Bois des Longs Vaux, on the first small hill to the right of Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, near the parking lot.

Tension Inversée 7asitstartFrédéric Buc
*****  [ 1 photo ] n°7 of the Mini topo du Bois des Longs Vaux, on the first small hill to the right of Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, near the parking lot.

- 7aareteEric Allayaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] n°17 of the topo Coquibus Ouest. Direct arete 15m above Les Assis, on one of the first boulders near the parking lot.

- 7aoverhang / sitstartAlain Denis
*****  [ 1 photo ] n°7 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (sector Fata Morgana), on the backside of Les Assis, near the path. Low sitstart (without crash-pad) in the overhang, climb that one without touching the small boulder on the left or the pedestal on the right and exit by a mantle above.
Update (May 2011) : the exit at the top of the boulder by an easy slab has become very mossy, but it is possible to downclimb to the left on the ledge of the mantle.


Frais de Recherche 7atraverse frtlChristian Roumégoux
*****  [ 12 photos ] underneath and to the left (looking towards the valley) of Bombe du Genre pas Mal.
Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin des Grands Longs Vaux up to a sign mark, shortly before the plateau, at a path on the right leading to the plateau (point of view). Pass the ridge and go down for 40m on the other side. The traverse is 30m above Le Chemin du Nid d'Aigle.


Décompression 7atraverse frtl / sitstart-
***** in between La Gorge à Veron and the main sector of Longs Vaux. Sitstart at the bottom of the right arete of Compression, traverse to the left and exit at the top of the boulder as for Compression.
Access : from the end of the parking lot, go straight ahead on Le Chemin de Milly à Coquibus for about 150m and turn right in the slope at the first path. The problem is on the first boulder on the left.


i-Ball 7aslightly overhanging / slab / expoGérald Coste / François-Xavier Joubert
***** left problem on the pillar of a very high boulder (10m approximately), 100m to the right and underneath Fourmiz. Start with an undercling right hand and a pinch left hand and exit above by the slab.
Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, and turn to the right on a path in a small valley 100m before the access to Fata Morgana. The boulder is near the top of the slope.

See also: e-Ball 7b

Quand Vous Voulez pour le Test 7aslab / slopers / crimpsTony Fouchereau / François-Xavier Joubert
***** on the left face of the big boulder of i-Ball, 100m to the right and underneath Fourmiz. Start with vertical holds and finish up by the slab on slopers.
Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, and turn to the right on a path in a small valley 100m before the access to Fata Morgana. The boulder is near the top of the slope.


Maigre Pitance 7a (7a+)wall / highManuel Marquès
*****  [ 1 photo ] standing start on the South side of La Roche Feuilletée, 100m from Fata Morgana.
Access : from the parking lot, take Le Chemin de la Hulotte, then Le Chemin de Rumont and go up diagonally to the left at the barrier; the boulder is just under the plateau.

See also:  [ 1 photo ]  Maigre Pitance rallongé 7b

Psychotrope 7a (7a+)wall / slightly overhanging / expoJérôme Chaput
***** 4m to the left of Tonnerre de Brest, on a boulder 50m to the right and above the 45 degrees roof of Fata Morgana. Start in the overhang, take a good hold in the upper crack and exit directly in the left wall at the top of the boulder.
NB : it is also possible to continue by the crack (easier) but this latter is actually lichenous (November 2011).


Bombe du Genre pas Mal 7a (7a+)roof / sitstartThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 5 photos ] low sitstart 50m to the North-East of La Course aux Nuages, on the East side of La Roche Feuilletée.
Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin des Grands Longs Vaux up to a sign mark, shortly before the plateau. Take on the right for 20m a path leading to the plateau (point of view), pass the ridge and go down for 20m on the other side. The overhang is behind a tunnel between two boulders.


La Balade de Nemo 7a (7a+)traverse fltrTony Fouchereau
***** 7m long traverse to the opposite of the big roof of Doris, in a little chaos 60m to the opposite of Fourmiz, under the crest. Standing start completely left with the two hands on a flat hold, traverse to the right above the overhang with the lowest horizontal ledge-crack and exit just before the angle without touching the small boulder on the ground.

Bande de Chiffes Molles 7a+ (7a)slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstartTony Fouchereau / François-Xavier Joubert
***** just above the big boulder of i-Ball, 100m to the right and underneath Fourmiz. Sitstart with two good pockets as for Bande de Chiffes Molles direct, climb the overhang on crimps to the right without touching the tree and exit at the top of the boulder.
Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, and turn to the right on a path in a small valley 100m before the access to Fata Morgana. The boulder is near the top of the slope.

See also: Bande de Chiffes Molles direct 7b (7a+)

Holé 7a+overhang / dyno / mantleChristian Roumégoux
***** n°9 of the topo Coquibus Ouest. Start with the right hand in the pocket in the 45 degrees roof of Fata Morgana.

Pente Douce 7a+arete / slightly overhanging / sitstartAlain Denis
*****  [ 3 photos ] n°16 of the topo Coquibus Ouest. Sitstart just above the 45 degrees roof of Fata Morgana.

Le Diktat du Hamac 7a+sitstart / roof / slopersFrédéric Buc
*****  [ 1 photo ] n°4 of the Mini topo du Bois des Longs Vaux, on the first small hill to the right of Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, near the parking lot.

Chiquenaudes 7a+sitstart / wall / highManuel Marquès
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the South side of La Roche Feuiletée. Sitstart in a small overhang 3m to the right of Maigre Pitance and exit in the wall.
Access : from the parking lot, take Le Chemin de la Hulotte, then Le Chemin de Rumont and go up diagonally to the left at the barrier; the boulder is just under the plateau.


Zone Crépusculaire 7a+slightly overhanging / traverse frtl / wallTony Fouchereau / Laurent Vigouroux
***** on a small boulder to the opposite of Fourmiz. Low sitstart inn a pit, traverse to the left on a ledge and exit in the wall above.

Doris 7a+slightly overhanging / roof / prowGérald Coste / Neil Hart
***** in a little chaos 60m to the opposite of Fourmiz, under the crest. Low standing start with the arete left hand and a crimp right hand, climb the roof and exit in the prow above.

Boumfer 7a+overhang / crimps / sitstartAndrej Bolán
***** in an overhang 30m above Le Chemin de Milly à Coquibus, 20m to the left of Compression. Sitstart without crash-pad with a good flake right hand and a pinch left hand, dyno to the jug on the left without touching the small boulder on the ground, climb the prow above with crimps and a small vertical crack left hand and exit in the roof at the top of the boulder.
Access : from the end of the parking lot, go straight ahead on Le Chemin de Milly à Coquibus for about 150m and go up the slope shortly after the first small path on the right towards the boulder, visible from the bottom.


Compression gauche 7a+overhang / slopers / aretePierre Délas
on an isolated boulder in between La Gorge à Veron and the main sector of Longs Vaux. Sitstart to the left as for Compression, take the left arete and exit in Compression without touching the back boulder.
Access : from the end of the parking lot, go straight ahead on Le Chemin de Milly à Coquibus for about 150m and turn right in the slope at the first path. The problem is on the first boulder on the left.

See also:  [ 2 photos ]  Compression 7b+ (7b)

1 to 25 of 58 boulders < next boulders

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