Bleau.info : Areas : Coquibus Longs Vaux : 7a and harder

Coquibus Longs Vaux : 7a and harder

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Other overviews 7a and harder: 47 straight-ups, 9 traverses
Topos: Topo secteur Fata Morgana, Mini topo Bois des Longs Vaux (Frédéric Buc), La Roche Feuilletée (Jean-Claude Valluet), Blocs perdus du Coquibus

Bande de Chiffes Molles direct 7b (7a+)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Laurent Vigouroux / Cédric Chatagnon
just above the big boulder of i-Ball, 100m to the right and underneath Fourmiz. Sitstart with two good pockets as for Bande de Chiffes Molles, but exit slightly left by the slab. Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, and turn to the right on a path in a small valley 100m before the access to Fata Morgana. The boulder is near the top of the slope. See also: Bande de Chiffes Molles 7a+ (7a)
Tonnerre de Brest 7b	crack / high	Thierry Guéguen
n°1 of the topo Coquibus Ouest, on the ridge, 50m to the right and above the 45 degrees roof of Fata Morgana. Start in the overhang with big pockets and exit via the crack.
- 7b	arete / sitstart / slopers	Alain Denis
n°3 of the topo Coquibus Ouest, on the first boulder near the parking lot. Arete to the left of Les Assis.
Maigre Pitance rallongé 7b	sitstart / traverse frtl / wall	Manuel Marquès
on the South side of La Roche Feuilletée. Sitstart in a small overhang as for Chiquenaudes, traverse to the left and exit in Maigre Pitance. Access : from the parking lot, take Le Chemin de la Hulotte, then Le Chemin de Rumont and go up diagonally to the left at the barrier; the boulder is just under the plateau. See also: Maigre Pitance 7a (7a+)
Hommage aux Pieds Nus 7b	wall / high	Manuel Marquès
high wall without the left arete on the South side of La Roche Feuilletée, in a small valley to the West of Maigre Pitance. Access : from the parking lot, take Le Chemin de la Hulotte, then Le Chemin de Rumont and go up diagonally to the left at the barrier; the boulder is just under the plateau.
Jour de Mouillard 7b	overhang / sitstart	Yano Salaün
on the first small hill to the right of Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, near the parking lot. Sitstart as for Le Diktat du Hamac but exit in the overhang on its left (see the Mini topo du Bois des Longs Vaux).
La Course aux Nuages 7b	traverse frtl / slopers	Thierry Guéguen
traverse on a marbled face on the East side of La Roche Feuilletée. Start before the angle, traverse on slopers and exit by a mantle at the end. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin des Grands Longs Vaux up to a sign mark, shortly before the plateau. Take on the right a path leading to the plateau (point of view); the traverse is just under.
e-Ball 7b	dihedral / slightly overhanging / expo	Gérald Coste / François-Xavier Joubert
right problem on the pillar of a very high boulder (10m approximately), 100m to the right and underneath Fourmiz. Start with an undercling right hand as for i-Ball, take the holds of the overhanging dihedral on the right, climb that one and exit at the top, at the same point of i-Ball. Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, and turn to the right on a path in a small valley 100m before the access to Fata Morgana. The boulder is near the top of the slope. See also: i-Ball 7a
Le Croc 7b (7b+)	slightly overhanging	Arnaud Ceintre
on an isolated boulder 100m to the West of Fata Morgana. Low start to the right of Los Banditos with a vertical hold left hand and the palm of right hand on an undercling, take a vertical hold and exit directly. Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux for 100m past the sector of Les Assis and take the first path on the right up the slope in a small valley. The boulder is near the top of that one, above a decorated stone.
Jour d'Hiver 7b (7b+)	arete	-
start on a stone with crimps, climb the arete to the left of Le Jour and exit in that one. (GPS: N48.414100 E2.489240) See also: La Nuit 7c, Belle de Jour 7c (7b+), Le Jour 7c+ (7c)
Compression 7b+ (7b)	overhang / slopers / sitstart	Julien Nadiras
in between La Gorge à Veron and the main sector of Longs Vaux. Sitstart to the left and climb directly the overhang. Access : from the end of the parking lot, go straight ahead on Le Chemin de Milly à Coquibus for about 150m and turn right in the slope at the first path.
La Balade des Pendus 7b+	overhang / pockets / sitstart	Alain Denis
no foot problem (by convention) under the crest, on the East side of La Roche Feuilletée. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin des Grands Longs Vaux up to a sign mark, shortly before the plateau, at a path on the right leading to the plateau (point of view); the overhang is slightly on the left, 10m on the other side of the crest.
Long Jour de Mouillard 7b+	traverse frtl / overhang	Yano Salaün
on the first small hill to the right of Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, near the parking lot. Start in Descends ta Mère and exit in the overhang to the left of Le Diktat du Hamac (see the Mini topo du Bois des Longs Vaux). Exit by Le Diktat du Hamac is 7b/7b+.
La Cordilière des Andes 7b+	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on the right face of the big boulder of i-Ball, 100m to the right and underneath Fourmiz. Sitstart with a vertical hold left hand and a sloper on the right arete, climb that one without touching the back boulder and exit above on a slopy ledge. Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, and turn to the right on a path in a small valley 100m before the access to Fata Morgana. The boulder is near the top of the slope.
Belle de Jour 7c (7b+)	roof	Tony Fouchereau
n°15 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (secteur Fata Morgana). Start as for Le Jour, but exit on the left flank. (GPS: N48.414100 E2.489240) See also: Jour d'Hiver 7b (7b+), La Nuit 7c, Le Jour 7c+ (7c)
La Nuit 7c	roof	Alain Denis
n°13 of the topo Coquibus Ouest. Sitstart on a stone underneath the roof with a vertical hold for the left hand and exit to the right with a pocket. (GPS: N48.414100 E2.489240) See also: Jour d'Hiver 7b (7b+), Belle de Jour 7c (7b+), Le Jour 7c+ (7c)
- 7c	overhang / sitstart	Alain Denis
n°6 of the topo Coquibus Ouest. Left problem on the backside of Les Assis, on the first boulder of the main sector.
Phobos Moon 7c (7c+)	wall / dyno	Kees Mak
sector Bois de Long Vaux, on the first boulder from the parking, in the wall to the right of Les Assis. Eliminant version doing a far dyno directly from an undercling to the top without taking the other holds. NB : this problem corresponds to the project n°5 in the topo Coquibus Ouest. See also: Phobos Moon avec l'arête 6c+ (6c)
À Préhension 7c+ (7c)	roof / sitstart	Christian Roumégoux
n°19 of the topo Coquibus Ouest, on the ridge, to the left of Fourmiz, 50m to the right of Tonnerre de Brest. Discovered and brushed with Jérôme Ceccaldi and Thierry Guéguen.
Le Jour 7c+ (7c)	roof	Alain Denis
n°14 of the topo Coquibus Ouest. Start in La Nuit, go to the left and along the left angle back to end in La Nuit. (GPS: N48.414100 E2.489240) See also: Jour d'Hiver 7b (7b+), La Nuit 7c, Belle de Jour 7c (7b+)
Los Banditos 7c+	arete / slopers	Sébastien Frigault / Julien Nadiras
on an isolated boulder 100m to the West of Fata Morgana. Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux for 100m past the sector of Les Assis and take the first path on the right up the slope in a small valley. The boulder is near the top of that one, above a decorated stone.
Le Jour et la Nuit 7c+	roof	Arnaud Ceintre
start on the stone on the left, climb the left arete, traverse to the right towards Le Jour and exit in La Nuit via a pocket.
Adréna Line direct 8a (7c+)	arete / dyno / expo	Tony Fouchereau
on a 5/6m high bouder 40m underneath Fourmiz. Start with the first pedestal, make a big dyno towards a ledge and exit by the arete above. See also: Adréna Line 6c
Fata Morgana 8a	overhang / dyno	Christophe Laumone
n°11 of the topo Coquibus Ouest. Start with a crimp left hand and another, oblique, one in the crack and dyno to a bidoigt to the right in the 45 degrees roof. (GPS: N48.414430 E2.487190) See also: Fata Morgana bas 8a+ (8b), Fata Morgana assis 8b
Belle de Nuit 8a	roof	Pascal Thomas
start in Le Jour, with two hands in the undercling and exit in Le Jour et la Nuit. (GPS: N48.414100 E2.489240)

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