Bleau.info : Areas : Coquibus Longs Vaux : straight-ups 7a and harder

Coquibus Longs Vaux : straight-ups 7a and harder

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Other overviews 7a and harder: 56 straight-ups + traverses, 9 traverses
Topos: Topo secteur Fata Morgana, Mini topo Bois des Longs Vaux (Frédéric Buc), La Roche Feuilletée (Jean-Claude Valluet), Blocs perdus du Coquibus

Le Bout du Gland 6c (7a)	overhang / sitstart	Cédric Chatagnon / François-Xavier Joubert
on an isolated boulder on the left of the road whenn coming to the parking lot. Sitstart to the left, tarverse under the overhand and exit on the "nose" of that one. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux to the West for 60m, take a small path to the left and go up the slope for 50m : the boulder is near the top of the hill.
Quand Vous Voulez pour le Test 6c (7a)	slab / slopers / crimps	Tony Fouchereau / François-Xavier Joubert
on the left face of the big boulder of i-Ball, 100m to the right and underneath Fourmiz. Start with vertical holds and finish up by the slab on slopers. Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, and turn to the right on a path in a small valley 100m before the access to Fata Morgana. The boulder is near the top of the slope.
- 7a (6c+)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Eric Allayaud
just right of the big boulder of i-Ball, 100m to the right and underneath Fourmiz. Sitstart with an undercling right hand, take a big jug and exit above by a mantle. Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, and turn to the right on a path in a small valley 100m before the access to Fata Morgana. The boulder is near the top of the slope.
Les Assis 7a	overhang / mantle / sitstart	Alain Denis
n°4 of the topo Coquibus Ouest, on the first boulder near the parking lot. Sitstart, make a heelhook and exit via a mantle.
Épaule et Jeté 7a	dyno / overhang / arete	Frédéric Buc
n°22 of the topo Coquibus Ouest, 30m underneath Belle du Jour. Sitstart underneath the roof, exit via the angle.
Tension Inversée 7a	sitstart	Frédéric Buc
n°7 of the Mini topo du Bois des Longs Vaux, on the first small hill to the right of Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, near the parking lot.
- 7a	arete	Eric Allayaud
n°17 of the topo Coquibus Ouest. Direct arete 15m above Les Assis, on one of the first boulders near the parking lot.
- 7a	overhang / sitstart	Alain Denis
n°7 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (sector Fata Morgana), on the backside of Les Assis, near the path. Low sitstart (without crash-pad) in the overhang, climb that one without touching the small boulder on the left or the pedestal on the right and exit by a mantle above. Update (May 2011) : the exit at the top of the boulder by an easy slab has become very mossy, but it is possible to downclimb to the left on the ledge of the mantle.
i-Ball 7a	slightly overhanging / slab / expo	Gérald Coste / François-Xavier Joubert
left problem on the pillar of a very high boulder (10m approximately), 100m to the right and underneath Fourmiz. Start with an undercling right hand and a pinch left hand and exit above by the slab. Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, and turn to the right on a path in a small valley 100m before the access to Fata Morgana. The boulder is near the top of the slope. See also: e-Ball 7b
Maigre Pitance 7a (7a+)	wall / high	Manuel Marquès
standing start on the South side of La Roche Feuilletée, 100m from Fata Morgana. Access : from the parking lot, take Le Chemin de la Hulotte, then Le Chemin de Rumont and go up diagonally to the left at the barrier; the boulder is just under the plateau. See also: Maigre Pitance rallongé 7b
Psychotrope 7a (7a+)	wall / slightly overhanging / expo	Jérôme Chaput
4m to the left of Tonnerre de Brest, on a boulder 50m to the right and above the 45 degrees roof of Fata Morgana. Start in the overhang, take a good hold in the upper crack and exit directly in the left wall at the top of the boulder. NB : it is also possible to continue by the crack (easier) but this latter is actually lichenous (November 2011).
Bombe du Genre pas Mal 7a (7a+)	roof / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
low sitstart 50m to the North-East of La Course aux Nuages, on the East side of La Roche Feuilletée. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin des Grands Longs Vaux up to a sign mark, shortly before the plateau. Take on the right for 20m a path leading to the plateau (point of view), pass the ridge and go down for 20m on the other side. The overhang is behind a tunnel between two boulders.
Bande de Chiffes Molles 7a+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau / François-Xavier Joubert
just above the big boulder of i-Ball, 100m to the right and underneath Fourmiz. Sitstart with two good pockets as for Bande de Chiffes Molles direct, climb the overhang on crimps to the right without touching the tree and exit at the top of the boulder. Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, and turn to the right on a path in a small valley 100m before the access to Fata Morgana. The boulder is near the top of the slope. See also: Bande de Chiffes Molles direct 7b (7a+)
Holé 7a+	overhang / dyno / mantle	Christian Roumégoux
n°9 of the topo Coquibus Ouest. Start with the right hand in the pocket in the 45 degrees roof of A HREF="http://bleau.info/longsvaux/1499.html">Fata Morgana.
Pente Douce 7a+	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Alain Denis
n°16 of the topo Coquibus Ouest. Sitstart just above the 45 degrees roof of Fata Morgana.
Le Diktat du Hamac 7a+	sitstart / roof / slopers	Frédéric Buc
n°4 of the Mini topo du Bois des Longs Vaux, on the first small hill to the right of Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, near the parking lot.
Chiquenaudes 7a+	sitstart / wall / high	Manuel Marquès
on the South side of La Roche Feuiletée. Sitstart in a small overhang 3m to the right of Maigre Pitance and exit in the wall. Access : from the parking lot, take Le Chemin de la Hulotte, then Le Chemin de Rumont and go up diagonally to the left at the barrier; the boulder is just under the plateau.
Doris 7a+	slightly overhanging / roof / prow	Gérald Coste / Neil Hart
in a little chaos 60m to the opposite of Fourmiz, under the crest. Low standing start with the arete left hand and a crimp right hand, climb the roof and exit in the prow above.
Fourmiz 7a+ (7b)	roof / underclings	Thierry Guéguen
n°20 of the topo Coquibus Ouest, on the ridge, 50m to the right of Tonnerre de Brest. Start with the underclings in the middle of the roof.
Superheavy 7a+ (7b)	wall / crimps	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
in the South face, on the other side of the crest from Fourmiz. Start with an oblique hold to the right of a sandy jug, climb the crimpsy wall without using the jug and exit above. Access : from Fourmiz, take a path towards the crest, follow that one for 30m and go down in the South face. The problem is just left, on an orange wall, next to a painted poem.
Bande de Chiffes Molles direct 7b (7a+)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Laurent Vigouroux / Cédric Chatagnon
just above the big boulder of i-Ball, 100m to the right and underneath Fourmiz. Sitstart with two good pockets as for Bande de Chiffes Molles, but exit slightly left by the slab. Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, and turn to the right on a path in a small valley 100m before the access to Fata Morgana. The boulder is near the top of the slope. See also: Bande de Chiffes Molles 7a+ (7a)
Tonnerre de Brest 7b	crack / high	Thierry Guéguen
n°1 of the topo Coquibus Ouest, on the ridge, 50m to the right and above the 45 degrees roof of Fata Morgana. Start in the overhang with big pockets and exit via the crack.
- 7b	arete / sitstart / slopers	Alain Denis
n°3 of the topo Coquibus Ouest, on the first boulder near the parking lot. Arete to the left of Les Assis.
Hommage aux Pieds Nus 7b	wall / high	Manuel Marquès
high wall without the left arete on the South side of La Roche Feuilletée, in a small valley to the West of Maigre Pitance. Access : from the parking lot, take Le Chemin de la Hulotte, then Le Chemin de Rumont and go up diagonally to the left at the barrier; the boulder is just under the plateau.
Jour de Mouillard 7b	overhang / sitstart	Yano Salaün
on the first small hill to the right of Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, near the parking lot. Sitstart as for Le Diktat du Hamac but exit in the overhang on its left (see the Mini topo du Bois des Longs Vaux).

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