you are here : bleau.info > areas > coquibus longs vaux > straight-ups 7a and harder
 [ Jingo Wobbly Topo-Guides ]
choose color themechoose your language

Coquibus Longs Vaux : straight-ups 7a and harder

1 to 25 of 33 boulders < next boulders

Other overviews 7a and harder: 38 straight-ups + traverses5 traverses
Topos: Topo secteur Fata Morgana, mini topo Bois des Longs Vaux (Frédéric Buc)

Les Assis 7aoverhang / sitstart / mantleAlain Denis
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 9 photos ] n°4 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (secteur Fata Morgana), on the first boulder near the parking lot. Sitstart, make a heelhook and exit via a mantle.

Épaule et Jeté 7adyno / overhang / areteFrédéric Buc
***** n°22 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (secteur Fata Morgana), 30m underneath Belle du Jour. Sitstart underneath the roof, exit via the angle.

Tension Inversée 7asitstartFrédéric Buc
 [ 1 photo ] n°7 of the mini topo by Frédéric Buc, in the sector Bois des Longs Vaux, near the parking of Coquibus (5 minutes walk).

- 7aareteEric Allayaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] n°17 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (sector Fata Morgana). Direct arete 15m above Les Assis, on one of the first boulders near the parking lot.

Maigre Pitance 7a (7a+)wall / highManuel Marquès
 [ 1 photo ] sector Roche Feuilletée, to the south of Fata Morgana; standing start.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  Maigre Pitance rallongé 7b

Psychotrope 7a (7a+)wall / slightly overhanging / expoJérôme Chaput
***** 4m to the left of Tonnerre de Brest.

Holé 7a+overhang / dyno / mantleChristian Roumégoux
***** n°9 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (secteur Fata Morgana). Start with the right hand in the hole in the 45 degrees roof.

Pente Douce 7a+slightly overhanging / pockets / sitstartAlain Denis
*****  [ 3 photos ] n°16 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (secteur Fata Morgana). Sitstart just above the 45 degrees roof.

Le Diktat du Hamac 7a+sitstart / roof / slopersFrédéric Buc
*****  [ 1 photo ] n°4 of the mini topo by Frédéric Buc, in the sector Bois des Longs Vaux, near the parking of Coquibus (5 minutes walk).

Chiquenaudes 7a+sitstart / wall / highManuel Marquès
 [ 1 photo ] sector Roche Feuiletée, to the south of Fata Morgana. 3m to the right of Maigre Pitance.

Fourmiz 7a+ (7b)roof / underclingsThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 2 photos ] n°20 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (secteur Fata Morgana), on the ridge, 10m to the right of Tonnerre de Brest. Start with the underclings in the middle of the roof.

Tonnerre de Brest 7bcrack / highThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 10 photos ] n°1 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (secteur Fata Morgana), on the ridge, above the 45 degrees roof.

- 7barete / sitstart / slopersAlain Denis
 [ 1 photo ] n°3 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (secteur Fata Morgana), on the first boulder near the parking lot. Arete to the left of Les Assis.

Compression 7bslightly overhanging / slopersJulien Nadiras
*****  [ 2 photos ] in between the sectors of Gorge à Veron and Longs Vaux: from the end of the parking, go straight ahead for about 300m and then turn right.

Hommage aux Pieds Nus 7bwall / highManuel Marquès
 [ 1 photo ] sector Roche Feuilletée, to the south of Fata Morgana; without the left arete.

Jour de Mouillard 7boverhang / sitstartYano Salaün
***** sector Bois des Longs Vaux, near the parking of Coquibus (5 minutes walk). Sitstart as for Le Diktat du Hamac but exit in the overhang on its left (see the mini topo de Frédéric Buc).

Le Croc 7b (7b+)slightly overhangingArnaud Ceintre
low start to the right of Los Banditos with a vertical hold left hand and the palm of right hand on an undercling, take a verical hold and exit directly.

Jour d'Hiver 7b (7b+)arete-
***** start on a stone with crimps, climb the arete to the left of Le Jour and exit in that one. (GPS: N48.414100 E2.489240)
See also: Belle de Jour 7b+ (7c),  [ 3 photos ]  La Nuit 7c, Le Jour 7c+ (7c)

Belle de Jour 7b+ (7c)roofTony Fouchereau
***** n°15 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (secteur Fata Morgana). Start as for Le Jour, but exit on the left flank. (GPS: N48.414100 E2.489240)
See also: Jour d'Hiver 7b (7b+),  [ 3 photos ]  La Nuit 7c, Le Jour 7c+ (7c)

La Nuit 7croofAlain Denis
*****  [ 3 photos ] n°13 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (secteur Fata Morgana). Sitstart on a stone underneath the roof with a vertical hold for the left hand and exit to the right with a pocket. (GPS: N48.414100 E2.489240)
See also: Jour d'Hiver 7b (7b+), Belle de Jour 7b+ (7c), Le Jour 7c+ (7c)

- 7coverhang / sitstartAlain Denis
***** n°6 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (secteur Fata Morgana), on the first boulder near the parking lot (opposite face of Les Assis).

À Préhension 7c+ (7c)roof / sitstartChristian Roumégoux
*****  [ 11 photos ] n°19 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (secteur Fata Morgana). On the ridge, 10m to the right of Tonnerre de Brest. Discovered and brushed with Jérôme Ceccaldi and Thierry Guéguen.

Le Jour 7c+ (7c)roofAlain Denis
***** n°14 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (secteur Fata Morgana). Start in La Nuit, go to the left and along the left angle back to end in La Nuit. (GPS: N48.414100 E2.489240)
See also: Jour d'Hiver 7b (7b+), Belle de Jour 7b+ (7c),  [ 3 photos ]  La Nuit 7c

Los Banditos 7c+arete / slopersSébastien Frigault / Julien Nadiras
 [ 2 photos ] 100m to the right on the way up to Fata Morgana.

Phobos Moon 7c+wall / dynoKees Mak
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 8 photos ] sector Bois de Long Vaux, on the first boulder from the parking, in the wall to the right of Les Assis. Eliminant version doing a far dyno directly from an undercling to the top without taking the other holds.
NB : this problem corresponds to the project n°5 in the topo Coquibus Ouest (sector Fata Morgana).

See also: Phobos Moon avec l'arête 6c

1 to 25 of 33 boulders < next boulders

about this site : welcome

Welcome to bleau.info, the one stop website about bouldering in Fontainebleau. A short name, which stands for an abundance of climbing beta. With ten thousands of pages, this is the ultimate reference site for Bleausards and Wannabees.

If you are new to this site, take a look at the intro to see what's available and how the navigation works. For the editors of this site, visit our contact page.

Interactive Font climbing map:

user : log in

You are not logged in.
You can create your own profile.
If you have one, you can log in.

If you have forgotten your password,
have it sent to you.

shop : support this site! Rock Climbing Atlas - South Eastern Europe: Slovenia, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Macedonia  Rock Climbing Atlas - Greece & The Middle East: Greece, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, Egypt
 [ E9 Winter collection 2007 / 2008 : the stylish clothing brand for bouldering and climbing from Italy ]  [ NIHIL Climbing : the stylish clothing brand from the Netherlands ]
 [ Triple Pads : Jo Montchaussé's original crash pads from Fontainebleau ]  [ 7 + 8 : 1789 straight ups in Fontainebleau ]
 [ Bleau De Grès 6 : 6th (and 5th) grade boulders and circuits ]  [ Au Grès des Trois Pignons ]