you are here : bleau.info > areas > coquibus longs vaux > straight-ups 7a and harder
 [ Jingo Wobbly Topo-Guides ]
choose color themechoose your language

Coquibus Longs Vaux : straight-ups 7a and harder

previous boulders > 26 to 47 of 47 boulders

Other overviews 7a and harder: 56 straight-ups + traverses9 traverses
Topos: Topo secteur Fata Morgana, Mini topo Bois des Longs Vaux (Frédéric Buc), La Roche Feuilletée (Jean-Claude Valluet), Blocs perdus du Coquibus

e-Ball 7bdihedral / slightly overhanging / expoGérald Coste / François-Xavier Joubert
***** right problem on the pillar of a very high boulder (10m approximately), 100m to the right and underneath Fourmiz. Start with an undercling right hand as for i-Ball, take the holds of the overhanging dihedral on the right, climb that one and exit at the top, at the same point of i-Ball.
Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, and turn to the right on a path in a small valley 100m before the access to Fata Morgana. The boulder is near the top of the slope.

See also: i-Ball 7a

Le Croc 7b (7b+)slightly overhangingArnaud Ceintre
on an isolated boulder 100m to the West of Fata Morgana. Low start to the right of Los Banditos with a vertical hold left hand and the palm of right hand on an undercling, take a vertical hold and exit directly.
Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux for 100m past the sector of Les Assis and take the first path on the right up the slope in a small valley. The boulder is near the top of that one, above a decorated stone.


Jour d'Hiver 7b (7b+)arete-
***** start on a stone with crimps, climb the arete to the left of Le Jour and exit in that one. (GPS: N48.414100 E2.489240)
See also:  [ 3 photos ]  La Nuit 7c, Belle de Jour 7c (7b+), Le Jour 7c+ (7c)

Compression 7b+ (7b)overhang / slopers / sitstartJulien Nadiras
*****  [ 2 photos ] in between La Gorge à Veron and the main sector of Longs Vaux. Sitstart to the left and climb directly the overhang.
Access : from the end of the parking lot, go straight ahead on Le Chemin de Milly à Coquibus for about 150m and turn right in the slope at the first path.


La Balade des Pendus 7b+overhang / pockets / sitstartAlain Denis
 [ 2 photos ] no foot problem (by convention) under the crest, on the East side of La Roche Feuilletée.
Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin des Grands Longs Vaux up to a sign mark, shortly before the plateau, at a path on the right leading to the plateau (point of view); the overhang is slightly on the left, 10m on the other side of the crest.


La Cordilière des Andes 7b+arete / slightly overhanging / sitstartFrançois-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on the right face of the big boulder of i-Ball, 100m to the right and underneath Fourmiz. Sitstart with a vertical hold left hand and a sloper on the right arete, climb that one without touching the back boulder and exit above on a slopy ledge.
Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux, and turn to the right on a path in a small valley 100m before the access to Fata Morgana. The boulder is near the top of the slope.


Belle de Jour 7c (7b+)roofTony Fouchereau
***** n°15 of the topo Coquibus Ouest (secteur Fata Morgana). Start as for Le Jour, but exit on the left flank. (GPS: N48.414100 E2.489240)
See also: Jour d'Hiver 7b (7b+),  [ 3 photos ]  La Nuit 7c, Le Jour 7c+ (7c)

La Nuit 7croofAlain Denis
*****  [ 3 photos ] n°13 of the topo Coquibus Ouest. Sitstart on a stone underneath the roof with a vertical hold for the left hand and exit to the right with a pocket. (GPS: N48.414100 E2.489240)
See also: Jour d'Hiver 7b (7b+), Belle de Jour 7c (7b+), Le Jour 7c+ (7c)

- 7coverhang / sitstartAlain Denis
***** n°6 of the topo Coquibus Ouest. Left problem on the backside of Les Assis, on the first boulder of the main sector.

Phobos Moon 7c (7c+)wall / dynoKees Mak
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 8 photos ] sector Bois de Long Vaux, on the first boulder from the parking, in the wall to the right of Les Assis. Eliminant version doing a far dyno directly from an undercling to the top without taking the other holds.
NB : this problem corresponds to the project n°5 in the topo Coquibus Ouest.

See also: Phobos Moon avec l'arête 6c+ (6c)

À Préhension 7c+ (7c)roof / sitstartChristian Roumégoux
*****  [ 11 photos ] n°19 of the topo Coquibus Ouest, on the ridge, to the left of Fourmiz, 50m to the right of Tonnerre de Brest. Discovered and brushed with Jérôme Ceccaldi and Thierry Guéguen.

Le Jour 7c+ (7c)roofAlain Denis
***** n°14 of the topo Coquibus Ouest. Start in La Nuit, go to the left and along the left angle back to end in La Nuit. (GPS: N48.414100 E2.489240)
See also: Jour d'Hiver 7b (7b+),  [ 3 photos ]  La Nuit 7c, Belle de Jour 7c (7b+)

Los Banditos 7c+arete / slopersSébastien Frigault / Julien Nadiras
*****  [ 2 photos ] on an isolated boulder 100m to the West of Fata Morgana.
Access : follow Le Chemin des Longs Vaux for 100m past the sector of Les Assis and take the first path on the right up the slope in a small valley. The boulder is near the top of that one, above a decorated stone.


Le Jour et la Nuit 7c+roofArnaud Ceintre
***** start on the stone on the left, climb the left arete, traverse to the right towards Le Jour and exit in La Nuit via a pocket.

Adréna Line direct 8a (7c+)arete / dyno / expoTony Fouchereau
on a 5/6m high bouder 40m underneath Fourmiz. Start with the first pedestal, make a big dyno towards a ledge and exit by the arete above.
See also: Adréna Line 6c

Fata Morgana 8aoverhang / dynoChristophe Laumone
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 9 photos ] n°11 of the topo Coquibus Ouest. Start with a crimp left hand and another, oblique, one in the crack and dyno to a bidoigt to the right in the 45 degrees roof. (GPS: N48.414430 E2.487190)
See also:  [ 1 realvideo ]  Fata Morgana bas 8a+ (8b),  [ 1 photo ]  Fata Morgana assis 8b

Belle de Nuit 8aroofPascal Thomas
start in Le Jour, with two hands in the undercling and exit in Le Jour et la Nuit. (GPS: N48.414100 E2.489240)

Fata Morgana bas 8a+ (8b)overhang / dynoDaï Koyamada
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] low start of Fata Morgana. See the topo Coquibus Ouest. (GPS: N48.414430 E2.487190)
See also:  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 9 photos ]  Fata Morgana 8a,  [ 1 photo ]  Fata Morgana assis 8b

Satan i Helvete 8boverhangDavid Graham
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 9 photos ] to the left of Fata Morgana.
NB : this problem has been brushed by Jos Leenen and Alain Denis.

See also:  [ 1 photo ]  Fata i Helvete 8b (8b+),  [ 1 photo ]  Satan i Helvete assis 8c, Angama (Fata i Helvete en traversée) 8c

Fata Morgana assis 8bsitstart / overhangSébastien Frigault
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart of Fata Morgana, see the topo Coquibus Ouest. (GPS: N48.414430 E2.487190)
See also:  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 9 photos ]  Fata Morgana 8a,  [ 1 realvideo ]  Fata Morgana bas 8a+ (8b)

Fata i Helvete 8b (8b+)overhangDaï Koyamada
 [ 1 photo ] low start of Fata Morgana, exit in Satan i Helvete, see the topo Coquibus Ouest.
See also:  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 9 photos ]  Satan i Helvete 8b,  [ 1 photo ]  Satan i Helvete assis 8c, Angama (Fata i Helvete en traversée) 8c

Satan i Helvete assis 8csitstart / overhang / dynoSébastien Frigault
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart of Satan i Helvete and exit via the dyno to the left.
See also:  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 9 photos ]  Satan i Helvete 8b,  [ 1 photo ]  Fata i Helvete 8b (8b+), Angama (Fata i Helvete en traversée) 8c

previous boulders > 26 to 47 of 47 boulders

about this site : welcome

Welcome to bleau.info, the one stop website about bouldering in Fontainebleau. A short name, which stands for an abundance of climbing beta. With ten thousands of pages, this is the ultimate reference site for Bleausards and Wannabees.

If you are new to this site, take a look at the intro to see what's available and how the navigation works. For the editors of this site, visit our contact page.

Interactive Font climbing map:

user : log in

You are not logged in.
You can create your own profile.
If you have one, you can log in.

If you have forgotten your password,
have it sent to you.