Bleau.info : Marion des Roches : Topo

thanks to David Evrard & Jean-Claude Valluet

From Le Carrefour de l'Obélisque at Fontainebleau, take the D58 for 2500m, continue ahead at Le Carrefour de Diane (the road becomes the D148) for 5500m and park the car at the bottom of the slope in direction of Sorques (plot 468). The different sectors are located between La Route de l'Homme Fossile and La Route du Long Rocher. Most of the boulders are on the crest, hence quick-drying (even if the ground remains often wet).

Sector Escargot
1	Le Crapaud 4+	overhang / sitstart	Jean-Claude Valluet
at the end of the sector, near the D148
2	Papoose 3+	wall / high	Jean-Claude Valluet
left problem on the boulder of Le Guetteur (4/5m boulder above the D148)
2'	Peau-Rouge 4	wall / high	Jean-Claude Valluet
central problem on the boulder of Le Guetteur (4/5m boulder above the D148)
2''	La Squaw 4-	wall / high	Jean-Claude Valluet
right problem on the boulder of Le Guetteur (4/5m boulder above the D148)
2'''	Visage Pâle 3+	slab / high	Jean-Claude Valluet
on the boulder of Le Guetteur (4/5m boulder above the D148)
3	Le Rince-Doigts 3+	slab	Jean-Claude Valluet
near the boulder of Le Guetteur
4	L'Écaille Délicate 4	slab	Jean-Claude Valluet
direct slab at the center of the sector; exit to the right is 3-
5	Drôle d'Oiseau 3 (3+)	wall	Jean-Claude Valluet
wall to the left of a of the prow, on a boulder just right of the path, in the center of the sector
5'	Le Drôle d'Oiseau 6b	prow / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
sitstart of the prow on a boulder just right of the path, in the center of the sector
6	La Poignée du Couvercle 2	wall	Jean-Claude Valluet
diagonal to the left at the beginning of the sector, to the left of the path after the crossing with La Route Desquinemare
7	Le Mamelon 3	slab	Jean-Claude Valluet
at the beginning of the sector, to the right of the path after the crossing with La Route Desquinemare
Sector Jojo
1	Sans Pompe 7a+	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Michel Grillère / David Evrard
on a slightly overhanging boulder; exit on the left angle
2	Jojo 6c	traverse fltr / pockets	Michel Grillère
in an overhanging boulder; traverse to the right in the cave and exit in the face on the other side
2'	Boucle d'Or 7a	traverse	Frédéric Buc
traverse from the end of Jojo up to its beginning, climb the wall and go down to the starting point of Jojo
2''	Super Jojo 7b	traverse / loop	Michel Grillère
combination of Boucle d'Or and Jojo. Stay to the right for Boucle d'Or.
3	La Xavounette 6b+	traverse fltr	Michel Grillère
traverse to the right without the base of the boulder and exit on the top (without using the big starting hold for the feet)
4	Le Visiteur 6b	wall / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
sitstart at the beginning of La Xavounette and exit directly
5	Randhaut 6a	overhang / sitstart	Michel Grillère
sitstart to the left of La Xavounette and exit in the overhang
6	Croche-Pied 6a+	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Michel Grillère
sitstart (with the left foot behind the tree) and climb the slightly overhanging prow
7	Dominos 6a	overhang / sitstart	Michel Grillère
sitstart in a pit
8	Adominos 6a	traverse fltr / wall / sitstart	Michel Grillère
on the boulder to the left of Dominos
9	Hueco 7a+ (7a)	traverse fltr / sitstart	Michel Grillère
sitstart at the left angle, traverse to the right without the top holds and exit by a mantle on the right angle (GPS: N48.353790 E2.769950)
10	Éclair 6b	wall	Michel Grillère
to the right of the exit of Hueco
11	La Loi du Talon 7a+	traverse fltr / sitstart / slopers	Michel Grillère / David Evrard
sitstart, traverse in the middle of the wall and exit to the right via slopers.
12	Aquapulpo 7a (7a+)	traverse frtl / slopers	David Evrard
traverse on slopers on a small boulder just past Sans Pompe in direction of Hueco
13	Trente Ans 6c	traverse fltr / sitstart	Michel Grillère
in the North-West of the area
14	29 6a+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Michel Grillère
to the North-West of the area; sitstart and exit to the right
15	Le Lièvre 6b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Michel Grillère
sitstart to the right of a dead tree in the North-West of the area.
Sector Pierrot
1	Pierrot 7b	overhang / sitstart	Michel Grillère
low sitstart. NB : it is possible to avoid the big hold on the right in the overhang (direct version by Philippe Vieulle; morpho).
1'	Bella Chichi 7c+ (8a)	overhang / traverse frtl / slopers	Robert Girard
sitstart as for Pierrot, traverse to the left with slopers and exit in Martin.
1''	Bella Chichi - PMH 8a	overhang / traverse frtl / slopers	Loïc Rousselle
start as for Bella Chichi and, at an old rusted ring, continue to traverse to the left to exit with the slopers of PMH.
2	Premamar 5-	wall	Marie Grillere
to the right of the boulder of Pierrot.
3	Le Petit Mur 6a	wall	Michel Grillère
to the opposite of Pierrot.
4	Caveman 7b	overhang / sitstart	David Evrard
in a pit on the boulder to the right of Pierrot.
5	Mise en Boîte 6c	wall	Michel Grillère / David Evrard
to the left of Pierrot.
5'	Mise en Boîte assis 7a+ (7b)	crack / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Laurent Darlot
low sitstart in the roof to the left of Pierrot, climb the crack, traverse on the ledge to the left and exit in Mise en Boîte.
5''	La Fissure de Mise en Boîte 5+ (6a)	crack / wall / crimps	-
start with the crack to the right of Mise en Boîte and exit directly to the left of that one.
5'''	La Fissure de Mise en Boîte assis 7a (7a+)	crack / wall / sitstart	-
low sitstart in the roof to the left of Pierrot, climb the crack as for Mise en Boîte assis and exit directly to the left of that one.
5''''	Bella Chichi raccourci 7b+	overhang / traverse frtl / slopers	Loïc Rousselle
start in Mise en Boîte assis and exit in Martin.
6	Martin 6c	slightly overhanging	Michel Grillère
on the boulder of Pierrot, to the left of the tree.
6'	Martin - PMH 7a	wall / traverse frtl / slopers	Loïc Rousselle
start in Martin, and at an old rusted ring, traverse to the left on slopers and exit in PMH.
6''	Le Canular 7a	dyno	Tony Fouchereau
direct dyno to the right of PMH; morpho.
7	PMH 6c	traverse fltr / wall	Jean-Philippe Villard
on the boulder of Pierrot. Start to the right of the crack of La Fissure du Clodo, traverse to the right and exit in the wall.
7'	PMH (départ sous le toit) 7a+ (7b)	overhang / traverse fltr / wall	Robert Girard
on the boulder of Pierrot. Start in the roof at the crack of La Fissure du Clodo, traverse to the right and exit in the wall.
7''	PMH assis 7b+	overhang / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart of PMH.
8	La Fissure du Clodo 6a	crack	Michel Grillère
to the left of the boulder of Pierrot.
8'	La Fissure du Clodo (départ sous le toit) 7a (7a+)	crack / sitstart	David Evrard / Damien Roguiez
start under the roof, climb the crack (directly) and exit in La Fissure du Clodo.
8''	Bas les Pattes 6a+	wall / crack / sitstart	David Evrard / Michel Grillère
sitstart to the left of La Fissure du Clodo, take and undercling and exit in the end of the crack.
9	Multijeux 4 (6b)	slightly overhanging / pockets / traverse	-
set of warming problems (several games) on the backside of the boulder of Pierrot.
10	Hiéroglyphe 6a	wall / sitstart	Michel Grillère
left problem on the boulder under the one with Pierrot.
11	La Tanière 6a	wall / sitstart	Michel Grillère
right problem on the boulder underneath the one with Pierrot.
12	Trebo 6b	bidoigt / sitstart	Michel Grillère
to the right of Ça Tire.
13	Ça Tire 6b+	wall / sitstart	Michel Grillère
to the left of Trebo.
14	Duracéché gauche 5+	pillar / wall / mantle	-
on the North face of the boulder of Trebo and Ça Tire, 10m underneath Pierrot. Start in the pit between two boulders, climb the pillar and exit by a mantle.
14'	Duracéché droite 5	pillar / arete	-
on the North face of the boulder of Trebo and Ça Tire, 10m underneath Pierrot. Start in the pit between two boulders, climb the pillar and exit to the right of the angle.
15	La Boule 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Franck Merckel
on a long-drying boulder to the opposite of Trebo, on the left of the boulder of Pierrot.
16	Marie-George 5-	wall / sitstart	Michel Grillère / David Evrard
more difficult without the jugs on the left.
16'	Rip Curl 6a	slightly overhanging	Michel Grillère / David Evrard
underneath and to the left of Les Mauvais Coups; with or without the left arete.
17	Les Mauvais Coups 7a	crack / pillar	David Evrard
standing start and exit diagonally to the right via the crack
17'	Les Mauvais Coups assis 7b	crack / pillar / sitstart	David Evrard
sitstart and exit diagonally to the right via the crack
18	L'Œuf de Pâques 6c (6b+)	wall	Michel Grillère
to the right of Les Mauvais Coups.
18'	L'Œuf de Pâques assis 7b	wall / sitstart	Ludovic Lefebvre
sitstart of L'Œuf de Pâques.
19	Le Petit Pilier droite 5-	pillar	Michel Grillère
climb the pillar to the right of L'Œuf de Pâques by the right.
19'	Le Petit Pilier gauche 6a+ (6b)	pillar	Michel Grillère
climb the pillar to the right of L'Œuf de Pâques by the left.
20	Blemde Yep 6b+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Michel Grillère / David Evrard
remonter le dévers en traversée ascendante sur la droite.
21	Chauve-Souris 6b	wall / sitstart	Michel Grillère
at the end of the sector.
22	Deuzamar 6b+	wall / sitstart	Michel Grillère / David Evrard
at the end of the sector.
23	9 de Tense 6b+	traverse fltr / slopers / crimps	Michel Grillère
sitstart and traverse to the right, on a small boulder to the right and behind the building on the acquaduct.
Sector Sylsem
1	Grosbidon 6b+	wall / sitstart	Michel Grillère / David Evrard
sitstart and exit directly
1'	Sylsem 6b	wall / sitstart	Michel Grillère
sitstart as for Grosbidon and exit diagonally to the left
2	Loing 6a	wall / sitstart	Michel Grillère
sitstart as for Grosbidon and exit to the right
3	Descalade 4-	wall	Michel Grillère
on the backside of the boulder of Grosbidon.
4	Saplombe 6b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Michel Grillère
on the backside of the boulder of Grosbidon.
5	Natacha 7a+	overhang / sitstart	-
on the boulder to the left of Grosbidon. Sitstart to the left under the belly.
6	La Dalle à David 6b+	pillar	Michel Grillère
NB : la seule dalle à compression au monde! ;-)
7	La Diagonale 6b+	slightly overhanging	Michel Grillère
ascending traverse to the left
9	Traversière 6a+	traverse frtl / sitstart	Michel Grillère
sitstart, traverse in the middle of the wall and exit at the angle.
10	Mystère 6b+	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Michel Grillère / David Evrard
traverse to the right via slopers; sitstart as for Coup de Brosse, traverse with the low slopers and exit as in that one
11	Coup de Brosse 6c	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Michel Grillère / David Evrard
sitstart as for Mystère, traverse via the slopers in the center of the boulder and exit as for that one
Sector Aurore
1	Feel du Logis 7a (7a+)	roof / sitstart	David Evrard
The overhang has become dangerous : do not climb! sitstart in the roof
1'	L'Homme Fossile 8a	roof / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
The overhang has become dangerous : do not climb! to the right of Feel du Logis; sitstart and climb the roof directly (10 moves)
2	Par Dessous 6a+	traverse fltr / arete	Michel Grillère
sitstart, low traverse to the right and exit via the angle
2'	Chauffe Toit 6b	roof / sitstart	Michel Grillère
to the left of Par Dessous
3	Mimolette 6c	traverse frtl / slopers	David Evrard
traverse to the left with slopers and exit before the angle
4	Cadomarie 6b+	traverse frtl	Michel Grillère
traverse to the left and exit in the small roof
5	Niakette 6c	wall / sitstart	Michel Grillère
6	Toutenrondeur 6b	wall / slopers	Michel Grillère
7	Aurore 6c	traverse fltr / crack / sitstart	Michel Grillère
sitstart, traverse to the right and exit via the crack
7'	Coince Tête 6c	overhang	-
direct version of Aurore.
7''	Big Mak 7b	dyno	Jan De Smit
dyno in the middle of the traverse of Aurore; 7b+ with the sitstart of Aurore
7'''	Zénith 7c	traverse fltr / crack / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart and climb the crack of Aurore, downclimb in Crépuscule via slopers, continueto traverse and exit in Gafotron.
8	Crépuscule 6c+	wall / crack / sitstart	David Evrard
sitstart on the flat rock on the right, go diagonally to the left and exit in the crack as for Aurore. NB : direct sitstart is also possible (7a+).
9	Direct 6c	slightly overhanging	Michel Grillère
to the right of Crépuscule
9'	Gafotron 6c	prow / slopers / sitstart	Michel Grillère
sitstart to the left of Crépuscule and exit on the prow (above a trunk) via slopers
10	La Valse des Plats 7a+	traverse fltr / slopers	Michel Grillère
long traverse on three faces. There and back by Michel Grillère (7b)
11	Bi-Steack 7a	roof / prow / sitstart	David Evrard
sitstart in the roof and exit to the right of the prow
11'	Franck 7b	roof / prow / sitstart	Franck Merckel
sitstart in the roof as for Bi-Steack and exit directly
12	Solo 6a	traverse frtl	Michel Grillère
traverse via the ledge of the overhang
12'	Culourd 6b+	wall	Michel Grillère
to the right of Bi-Steack
13	Les Guêpes 5-	wall	Michel Grillère
to the right of L'Écureuil
14	L'Écureuil 6a	wall / slopers	Michel Grillère
		Outside the topo
Poulie-Test 6c		slightly overhanging / sitstart	David Evrard / Frédéric Buc
at the top of the Route Desquinemare, following the crest towards the sector "Jojo".

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