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Rocher de Milly : straight-ups 7a and harder

1 to 25 of 60 boulders < next boulders

Other overviews 7a and harder: 70 straight-ups + traverses10 traverses
Topos: Rocher de Milly (Thierry Guéguen & Arnaud Ceintre), Topo secteur Est

Caramba! 6c (7a)slightly overhanging / sitstartPhilippe Dumez
*****  [ 2 photos ] topo nº20; just above the boulder of Le Sanglier d'Érythème, 80m above La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau and 80m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR); sitstart as for Antinéa, but exit directly in the belly (slightly morpho)

- 6c (7a)slightly overhanging / sitstart-
left problem with a green arrow in a corridor between Évolution de l'Espèce and Le Coquillage.

À Vue de Nez gauche 6c (7a)slightly overhanging / slopersTony Fouchereau
topo nº6-2; on the second boulder underneath L'Envie au Bout des Doigts, in the Eastern part of the sector Louveteau. Standing start with the arete left hand and exit slightly right on slopers.
See also: À Vue de Nez 6c (6c+)

El Condor Pasa 6c (7a)slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstartFrançois-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
topo nº8-1; on the boulder above La Révolte des Peuples, in the sector Louveteau. Sitstart to the left of a green arrow, with a flat vertical hold right hand and an undercling in the overhang and exit directly.
See also: El Condor Pasa gauche 7a+ (7a)

Koyaanisqatsi gauche 6c (7a)slightly overhanging / crimps / areteTony Fouchereau
topo nº13-2; on a boulder above La Route de Milly, in the sector Louveteau, 150m to the East of Robocop. Standing start with a flat vertical hold and exit above.
See also: Koyaanisqatsi 7a+ (7b)

La Guerre des Boutons direct 6c (7a)slightly overhanging / pinches / sitstartTony Fouchereau
topo nº15b-1; on the boulder above and slightly left of Robocop. Low sitstart, take a pinch and exit above.
See also: La Guerre des Boutons 7a+

Pris de Vitesse gauche 6c+ (7a)slightly overhanging / crack / sitstartThomas Collignon / Tony Fouchereau
topo nº17-1; on the boulder just left of Robocop. Sitstart on a stone with the two hands on a ledge, climb the vertical cracks and exit on the right at the same point as for Pris de Vitesse.
See also: Pris de Vitesse 7a (7a+)

Fiskars 6c+ (7a)prow / slightly overhanging / crimpsThomas Collignon / Gérald Coste
topo nº18-1; on a boulder to the left of Robocop. Start with two shapy cimps and exit by the prow.
See also: Fiskars gauche 7a+

Nagual 7awallJérôme Ceccaldi
 [ 3 photos ] on a big boulder visible from La Route de Milly just right of yellow n°15. Start with two crimps in the overhang and exit in the wall using a heel hook.

Éclats 7asitstart / slightly overhangingPascal Etienne
*****  [ 1 video ] to the left of blue n°2 bis.

Pomme d'Api 7aslopers / mantleArnaud Ceintre
 [ 1 photo ] topo nº28; in the Louve sector. Start with the medal-shaped hold right hand and exit directly.

Le Vin du Dimanche direct 7awall / dynoC. Pas 7a
*****  [ 2 photos ] to the left of yellow n°31, at the bottom of the slope, to the left and underneath Nagual. Direct version of Le Vin du Dimanche without the arete.
See also:  [ 3 photos ]  Le Vin du Dimanche 6a

Inception 7awall / sitstartDavid Evrard
sitstart on a big bowl-shaped boulder completely to the East of the sector Louveteau, 30m underneath Geka.
Access : go up the slope from the last cairn before La Route du Louveteau. (GPS: N48.394710 E2.605560)


Monolithe 7aarete / slightly overhanging / slopersRenan Viguié / Thomas Collignon
***** topo nº10-1; on a big boulder above and to the right of Stuva, in the middle of the slope, in the sector Louveteau, above La Route de Milly, 150m to the East of Robocop. Standing start to the right of a green arrow, clim the arete on slopers and exit at the top.
See also: Monolithe assis 7a+

Moment de Déception 7aarete / slightly overhanging / slopersFrançois-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
topo nº14; on the boulder above and to the right of Robocop. Standing start just left of a small boulder with a vertical hold right hand and exit above with a small sloper on the arete.

Bon Pied 7a (7a+)slightly overhanging / sitstartThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 6 photos ] topo nº3; 40m above Les Météores, by following a path on the left, starting 20m past the crossing with La Route du Liteau on La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau (prolongation of Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy). Sitstart to the left of Bon Œil.
Update (February 2009) : a little more difficult since the foot hold broke off.


Et Talon Nez 7a (7a+)slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstartTony Fouchereau
topo nº2-2; central problem on a boulder 30m to the left of Geka, just under the crest, in the East of the sector Louveteau. Sitstart with a crimp right hand and a good hold left hand, climb a little roof and exit above.
See also: Et Talon Nez gauche 6c+

Là on n'Est pas Gâtés 7a (7a+)wall / slab / crimpsFrançois-Xavier Joubert
topo nº3-1bis; right problem on a boulder in the middle of the slope, in the East of the sector Louveteau. Standing start with the arete left hand and a good vertical hold and exit by the slab above.

Le Yémen 7a (7a+)slightly overhanging / crimps / slopersTony Fouchereau
topo nº8-2; on the boulder above La Révolte des Peuples, in the sector Louveteau. Sitstart to the right of the boulder with the arete right hand and a small hold in the overhang and exit by the slab (without touching the small boulder).
See also: La Traversée du Yémen 7b (7a+)

Pris de Vitesse 7a (7a+)slightly overhanging / pockets / sitstartThomas Collignon / Gérald Coste
topo nº17-1bis; on the boulder just left of Robocop. Standing start with a good undercling and exit at the same point as for Pris de Vitesse gauche.
See also: Pris de Vitesse gauche 6c+ (7a)

Stuva 7a (7b)prow / slightly overhanging / slopersFrançois-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
topo nº11; in the middle of the slope, above La Route de Milly, in the sector Louveteau, 150m to the East of Robocop. Static standing start with a sloper left hand and a crimp right hand and exit directly on the prow.

Le Jeu Thé 7a+ (6c+)slightly overhanging / dyno / slopersTony Fouchereau
topo nº12-2; on a boulder above La Route de Milly, in the sector Louveteau, 150m to the East of Robocop. Standing start without crash-pad, jump to a sloper and exit above. (GPS: N48.395111 E2.604056)

El Condor Pasa gauche 7a+ (7a)slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstartFrançois-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
topo nº8-1bis; on the boulder above La Révolte des Peuples, in the sector Louveteau. Sitstart to the left of a green arrow as for El Condor Pasa and, just after the dynamic move, traverse for 2m on the ledge and exit with the left arete.
See also: El Condor Pasa 6c (7a)

Grince Dedans 7a+slightly overhanging / sitstartKevin Lopata
*****  [ 2 photos ] topo nº11; 50m above Le Dolmen du Divin, 200m to the left of Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy, before the crossing with La Route du Louvard, 180m past the sector of Les Météores.

Punchy 7a+slightly overhanging / sitstartThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 7 photos ] topo nº13; on the top of the South face, in the sector Sanglier d'Érythème, 120m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR). Low sitstart as for Brutus and exit to the right. (GPS: N48.395750 E2.598210)
See also:  [ 3 photos ]  Brutus 7b (7b+)

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