Bleau.info : Montignotte : Topo

thanks to Frédéric Buc & Gilles Cottray

From Paris, take the exit Milly-la-Forêt on the motorway, then the D372 in direction of Milly, turn left at an unpaved road to the opposite of Courances, and park the car at Le Carrefour de Montignotte. Follow the GR which turns right at a barrier; the first boulders can be seen in the slope after a bend to the left.

1	L'Entrée 5	slopers	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
in the slope at the beginning of the sector.
2	Les Lents 6b+	sitstart / pillar	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart and climb the pillar to the left.
3	Monostyle 6a+	sitstart / monos	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
direct variant of Les Lents.
4	Minime Homme 7b+	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
underneath the small path in the thalweg, at the beginning of the sector.
4b	Capilo-Tractée 6b+	traverse fltr	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
exit at the hole.
4t	L'Étraviole 7b	sitstart / traverse frtl	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
above the small path, on the right when arriving to the sector.
5	Poutrex 7a+	traverse / sitstart / monos	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
above the small path in the thalweg, at the beginning of the sector.
6	L'Embarras de Choir debout 6b+	crimps / slopers	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
standing start of L'Embarras de Choir (left exit).
6b	L'Embarras de Choir 7a	crimps / slopers / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
along a path to the right, at the beginning of the sector. Sitstart with vertical holds as for Marbre à Palabres and exit to the left with slopers.
7	Marbre à Palabre debout 6b	wall / crimps / slopers	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
standing start of Marbre à Palabre (right exit).
7b	Marbre à Palabre 7a	sitstart / wall / crimps	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
along a path to the right, at the beginning of the sector. Sitstart with vertical holds as for L'Embarras de Choir and exit to the right via crimps and slopers.
8	Saut d'Homme 6a	dyno	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the right of L'Embarras de Choir and Marbre à Palabre.
9	Tend Tant 6b+	wall / crimps	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
above the small path in the thalweg0
10	Vers Où 6c+	sitstart / crack / traverse frtl	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart, traverse to the left and exit with a crimp.
11	La Grande Dalle 6a	slab / high	-
on the backside of the boulder of Vers Où.
11b	Paris-Chamonix 7c	wall	Emmanuel Ratouis
in the middle of the boulder below black n°20 and black n°21, along La Route du Renardeau, before La Mouche. Initially proposed as a 7a+, but certainly 7c (lichenous in 2007).
11t	Dernier Tango 5+	slab / high	Pepito
left problem on the boulder of La Grande Dalle.
12	Le Bon B 5	sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart of a small belly.
13	Coquillard 7a+	traverse frtl / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
sitstart on rock and exit via the arete.
14	Le Grand Pilier 6a+	pillar	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
high pillar.
15	L'Allongée 6b+	-	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
start with the feet in a hole and the left hand in a hole and exit directly.
16	Plats Toons 7b	traverse / slopers	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
exit via the central pillar on slopers.
17	Escarre Toons 6c	traverse / mantle	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
exit via the pillar to the right.
18	La Marque Blanche 6b+	traverse fltr / prow	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
exit in the center of the prow.
19	Les Preuves 6a+	sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
exit to the left of the prow.
20	Le Bon Bec 5	sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
exit to the right of the prow.
21	Boule de Suif 7b	slightly overhanging	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
along the path, in the South-West of the sector.
22	Indigent Bomber 6c+ (7a)	overhang / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
in the South-West of the sector.
23	Le Pavé 4+	pillar	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the left of Indigent Bomber".
24	Gratterie 5	wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
crimpsy wall.
25	Grattement 6a+	pillar	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
at the South-East of the sector.
26	Le Con-Tour 6c	traverse frtl / wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
traverse from the right and exit in the wall (direct is 6b).
27	Le Trouillard 6a	pillar / pockets	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
large pillar with holes.
27b	Le Troussequin 5-	wall	-
wall to the right of Le Trouillard.
28	Le Mur des Limitations 7a (7a+)	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
crimpsy wall without the right arete (7a+ without the pocket on the top).
29	Pâle Imitation 4+	wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the left of Le Mur des Limitations.
30	Sans Limites 5	sitstart / pillar	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on the backside of the boulder with Mur des Limitations.
31	Le Bivouac 6b+	traverse / roof	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
integral traverse of the roof.
32	Feu au Cul 7c	traverse frtl / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart on the right, traverse a first face and exit at the left of he ovehang of the second face, 1m before the start of Razmoquette.
33	Razmoquette 7a	sitstart / traverse fltr / overhang	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart to the left, low traverse and exit in the overhang.
34	Coquin But 6c	sitstart / wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the right of Le Coq Imbu.
34b	Le Coq Imbu 7a	slab	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
at the South-East of the sector.
35	La Gilles Talon 6c+	sitstart / traverse fltr	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart at the arete on the left of the face of L'Astragale, traverse to the right with low holds and exit by the pillar.
35b	La Gilles Talon haut 7b	traverse fltr / sitstart	-
sitstart at the arete on the left of the face of L'Astragale, climb the arete, traverse to the right with top holds and exit by the pillar.
36	L'Astragale 7b (7a+)	overhang / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
at the South-East of the sector. Start with the two hands in the jug, dyno to a flat hold, take the crack and exit by a mantle. Update : due to a broken key hold, the problem has been upgraded.
37	Y se Barre! 6a+	sitstart / wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart to the left and exit in "Isobare.
38	Isobare 7a (7a+)	sitstart / slopers	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
sitstart to the right and climb the wall on slopers, without using the crack.
39	Monte et Grignotte 5+	wall / pillar	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the right of the pillar.
40	Le Bumber 5-	pillar	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
pillar at the east of the sector.
41	Lance du Panier! 6a	dyno	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the right of Figure de Pro.
42	Figure de Pro 6c	prow	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
characteristic prow in the center of the sector.
42	Figure de Pro direct 7b (7a+)	prow	Thomas Collignon
direct version of Figure de Pro, without the holds on the right.
42b	Détente 5-	wall	-
wall to the left of Figure de Pro.
43	L'Aval Hanche 6c	wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
crimpsy wall.
44	L'Aisée 4+ (5-)	slab	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
in the center of the sector.
45	Pilier de Rire 6a+	pillar	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
round pillar.
46	L'Oblique 5+	wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
exit diagonally to the left.
46b	Puta de Centimetro 6c+	underclings / slopers	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
take the undercling with the left hand and exit directly using slopers.
47	Beau Mur 5+	wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
above the GR.
48	Coquet-Cul 7a	pillar / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart of a small pillar near the path, after the bend.
		Outside the topo
Gemme Tonique 7a+		wall	Yano Salaün
sector la Montignotte, lot n°9. From the wall of rocks, look for a big boulder uphill on the right. Start to the right of the nicely (naturally) shaped overhanging face of the boulder with two sidepulls, and exit in Un Air de Sévérité.
Un Air de Sévérité 7b		wall / dyno	Yano Salaün
sector la Montignotte, lot n°9. From the wall of rocks, look for a big boulder uphill on the right. To the left of Gemme Tonique, in the middle of the nicely (naturally) shaped overhanging face of the boulder.
Le Mur des Limitations assis 7b (7a+)		wall / crimps / sitstart	-
sitstart to the right (without crash-pad), take the pinch of Le Mur des Limitations and exit in that one without the arete nor the big pocket at the top.
No Grade 6b (6c)		crack / slightly overhanging / expo	Thierry Guéguen
left crack (slightly morpho) on a big boulder on the plateau (6b from the stone). Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, take the GR, cross the two classical areas and go up the hill. The boulder is located on the top, 25m to the right of the path.
Strapassis 6c (6c+)		crack / expo / sitstart	Arnaud Ceintre / Ludovic Lefebvre
crack to the left of , on the boulder of La Vie est Belle. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, take the GR, cross the two classical areas and go up the hill; the boulder is located on the top, 25m to the right of the path.
Attrape-moi si tu Peux 8a		wall / crack / expo	Olivier Lebreton
start to the left of La Vie est Belle in the crack of No Grade, traverse to the left to a second crack and exit in that one. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, take the GR, cross the two classical areas and go up the hill; the boulder is located on the top, 25m to the right of the path.
L'An Dallouse 6a		slab / wall / high	Thierry Guéguen
right problem on a boulder along the GR, 50m underneath the plateau, past the classical sector.
Speed Dallouse 6b		slab / wall / high	Thierry Guéguen
on a boulder along the GR, along the GR, 50m underneath the plateau, past the classical sectors. Start as for L'An Dallouse but exit to the left in Devoir de Vacances.
Mini Fahrenheit 7b+ (7c)		roof / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
shortened variant of the roof of Fahrenheit 91.4; sitstart to the left, traverse to the crux of this problem, and do the same exit. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, take the GR, cross the two classical areas and go up the hill; the boulder is located on the top, 100m past No Grade.
Fahrenheit 91.4 7c		roof / expo	Thierry Guéguen
exceptional roof (12m long!); start completely low (lighting recommended). Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, take the GR, cross the two classical areas and go up the hill; the boulder is located on the top, 100m past No Grade.
L'Intégrale de Fahrenheit 91.4 7c+		roof / expo	Thierry Guéguen
the definitively longest version of this boulder; the start is a couple of meters further to the left and deeper into the cave in comparison to Fahrenheit 91.4; in total the number of movements is about 35!
Le Fil Damassé 7c+		arete / dyno / sitstart	Kevin Lopata
arete between Palpitation and Un Air de Sévérité, on the right of a big boulder, 10mn far from the parking lot. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, follow Le Chemin de la Gorge du Bois Feuillé for 150m up to a crossing and go up the slope for 100m towards an old quarry. The boulder is then 30m on the right of the path.
Palpitation 7c (7c+)		wall / dyno	Kevin Lopata
wall to the left of Le Fil Damassé, in the middle of the face of a big boulder, 10mn far from the parking lot. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, follow Le Chemin de la Gorge du Bois Feuillé for 150m up to a crossing and go up the slope for 100m towards an old quarry. The boulder is then 30m on the right of the path.
- 6b (6b+)		arete	Thierry Guéguen
left arete on a big boulder, 10mn far from the parking lot. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, follow Le Chemin de la Gorge du Bois Feuillé for 150m up to a crossing and go up the slope for 100m towards an old quarry. The boulder is then 30m on the right of the path.
- 6a		slab	Thierry Guéguen
to the left of an unnamed arete, on a big boulder, 10mn far from the parking lot. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, follow Le Chemin de la Gorge du Bois Feuillé for 150m up to a crossing and go up the slope for 100m towards an old quarry. The boulder is then 30m on the right of the path.
La Vie est Belle 7c+ (8a)		wall / expo	Christophe Laumone
just right of No Grade. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, take the GR, cross the two classical areas and go up the hill; the boulder is located on the top, 25m to the right of the path.
Saute qui Peut 6b		slab / high	Pepito / Jean-Noël Gabrhel
right problem on the boulder of La Grande Dalle.
La Naphtaline 6c		traverse frtl	Pepito
start to the left of Indigent Bomber, traverse to the left, pass the angle and exit in Grattement (see n°25 of the topo de la Montignotte).
Extension du Domaine de la Lutte 8a (8a+)		wall / crimps / expo	Olivier Lebreton
direct wall just right of La Vie est Belle (the last hold is common to both problems). Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, take the GR, cross the two classical areas and go up the hill; the boulder is located on the top, 25m to the right of the path.
Le Jardin d'Ulysse 7b+		roof / mantle / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault
isolated overhang in the North slope, 100m from Coup de Foudre (sector Gorge à Véron). Low sitstart in the roof, dyno to the ledge and exit by a mantle above. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, follow Le Chemin de la Gorge du Bois Feuillé for 150m, turn right at the first crossing and, after 150m, follow the left path for 20m. The boulder is 50m far from the signpost "Allée du Bois des Collins", at the top of the slope.
Relance 7c+		slightly overhanging	Christian Roumégoux
to the left of L'Écureuil, on a 6m high boulder 300m to the North-West of Le Jardin d'Ulysse.Access : take the same path as for Le Jardin d'Ulysse but continue ahead by a small path for 150m, go round a hill and then up in a little valley to the left. The boulder is then to the right.
L'Écureuil 7a (6b)		pillar / slightly overhanging	-
to the right of Relance, on a 6m high boulder 300m to the North-West of Le Jardin d'Ulysse.Access : take the same path as for Le Jardin d'Ulysse but continue ahead by a small path for 150m, go round a hill and then up in a little valley to the left. The boulder is then to the right.
Devoir de Vacances 6b		slab / high	Pepito
direct slab just left of L'An Dallouse, on a boulder along the GR, 50m underneath the plateau, past the classical sector. NB : it is possible to exit on the right in L'An Dallouse (5c).
Tapis Volant 6a		arete / high	Pepito
arete left hand on a boulder 70m to the West of Le Jardin d'Ulysse.
Pollux 6a		slab	Pepito
right slab on a boulder 70m to the West of Le Jardin d'Ulysse.
Castor 6b		slab / high	Pepito
left slab on a boulder 70m to the West of Le Jardin d'Ulysse.
Domino 6a		traverse fltr	Blokeur / Pepito
short traverse to the right in the easy sector to the North-West of the classical area (see the topo of la Montignotte).
Objet d'Étude 6b		pillar / sitstart	Blokeur / Yann Bruneau
sitstart of a pillar in the easy sector to the North-West of the classical area (see the topo of la Montignotte).
Jazz Rock 6c		traverse fltr / sitstart / slab	Pepito / Yann Bruneau
15m to the left of Marbre à Palabres. Sitstart, traverse to the right and exit via the slab.
Belle Amie 6b		arete / high / expo	Pepito
climb the arete right hand, just left of Palpitation, on the boulder of Le Fil Damassé. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, follow Le Chemin de la Gorge du Bois Feuillé for 150m up to a crossing and go up the slope for 100m towards an old quarry. The boulder is then 30m on the right of the path.
Mister Épouvante 6c		arete / high / expo	Pepito
climb the arete left hand, just left of Palpitation, on the boulder of Le Fil Damassé. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour de Montignotte, follow Le Chemin de la Gorge du Bois Feuillé for 150m up to a crossing and go up the slope for 100m towards an old quarry. The boulder is then 30m on the right of the path.

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