Bleau.info : Montrouget : Topo

thanks to Frédéric Buc

On the road from Courances to Arbonne, leave your car at the first parking to the right when entering the Bois du Coquibus. Take Le Chemin de la Ferme du Montrouget, turn left till the Chemin des Arcades, and continue on a small path to the South between Montrouget and point "97" on the IGN map, with Figure de Style. The main sector is 150m away (with an evident "big nose"), before reaching Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne.
Other access : from the next parking, take the Chemin des Côtes de de Courances (parcelle 37), cross the Chemin des Arcades (white markings), turn right on the GR 11 (Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne). The sector is 150m to the right.

1	Face et Scie 6b	wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the right of Dichotomie, without the left crack.
2	Dichotomie 6c	wall / crimps	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the left of Face et Scie.
3	Pas de Baggy Baggy 6c	sitstart / arete	Frédéric Buc
sitstart of the arete to the left of Jet de Lame.
4	Jet de Lame 6a+	sitstart / wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the right of Pas de Baggy Baggy; sitstart and exit with the big hold at the top of the face.
5	Au Pied Levé 6c+	sitstart / traverse fltr / belly	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart with the lip, traverse to the right and exit in a belly.
6	Lèvre de Feu 6b+	sitstart / crack / wall	Frédéric Buc
on the backside of the boulder of Au Pied Levé. Sitstart with the left hand in a crack and exit in the face of the corridor.
7	- 5	slab	Frédéric Buc
slab to the right of the arete of L'Angluée.
8	L'Angluée 7a	arete / slightly overhanging	Frédéric Buc
slightly overhanging arete to the left of a 5th grade slab.
9	Final Fantasy 6c+	sitstart	Frédéric Buc
sitstart with right foot on the boulder to the right; exit without the crack.
10	Fécondité 6c (6b)	wall	Alexis Etienne / Pascal Etienne
to the left of the arete of Bonne Mine.
11	- 4+	wall	-
on the left face of the boulder of Bonne Mine. Start as for Fécondité but exit on the left using a flake.
12	Bonne Mine 6a+	arete	Frédéric Buc
to the left of a 5a slab.
13	- 3+	crack	-
artificial quarry crack on the right face of the boulder of Bonne Mine.
14	- 5-	slab	-
without the crack.
15	Cham'Adore 7a	crack / arete / sitstart	François Louvel
1m50 to the left of La Raie Formée, to the opposite of the cave of Grottesque. Sitstart at the left arete, climb the crack and exit above a characteristic mushroom.
15	Cham'Adore debout 6a	crack	François Louvel
1m50 to the left of La Raie Formée, to the opposite of the cave of Grottesque.
16	La Raie Formée 7a	crack	Frédéric Buc
fingery crack on a boulder facing the cave of Grottesque.
17	- 6a	slopers / mantle	Frédéric Buc
to the right of the crack of La Raie Formée, on a boulder to the opposite of the cave of Grottesque.
18	- 5 (5+)	wall / crack	-
to the left of L'Arête du Bouleau, on the boulder just left of the cave of Grottesque.
19	L'Arête du Bouleau 6a+	arete / underclings / mantle	Frédéric Buc
on a boulder just left of the cave of Grottesque. Start at the angle with the undercling and exit by a mantle above the arete.
19	L'Arête du Bouleau assis 6c	arete / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on a boulder just left of the cave of Grottesque. Sitstart at the angle, take the undercling and exit by a mantle above the arete.
20	Le Sale Bouleau 6c+ (7a)	wall / crimps / slopers	Pascal Etienne
right problem on the boulder to the left of the cave of Grottesque, between the two trees. Start with vertical crimps and exit on slopers.
20	Le Sale Bouleau assis 7a (7a+)	wall / crimps / sitstart	-
on the boulder just left of Grottesque. Sitstart between the two trees with a low horizontal crack, climb the wall with crimps and exit on slopers.
21	- 4+	wall / slab	Frédéric Buc
on a boulder to the left of the cave of Grottesque.
22	Gibbon de Paris 7b	roof / traverse fltr / crack	Frédéric Buc
low start to the left of the cave and exit in the crack of Grottesque. NB : please respect the engravings in the cave!
22	Pas Vu Pas Pris 7b+	roof / traverse fltr	François Louvel
low start to the left of the roof and traverse on the ledge as for Gibbon de Paris, but exit directly, without the crack.. NB : please respect the engravings in the cave!
23	Grottesque 7a+	roof / crack	Frédéric Buc
same exit as Gibbon de Paris. NB : please respect the engravings in the cave!
24	L'Angle Grottesque 6a	arete	Frédéric Buc
right arete in the cave of Grottesque. Sitstart is 6a+.
25	- 4-	wall / slab	-
on the backside of the boulder with the cave of Grottesque.
27	Remontée Gastrique 6b+	sitstart / slightly overhanging	Frédéric Buc
sitstart of the belly to the left of Le Nez Faste, on the boulder to the right and behind Grottesque. Standing start is 6b.
28	Le Nez Faste 6b+ (6c)	wall	Frédéric Buc
on the boulder to the right and behind the cave of Grottesque.
29	- 5-	wall	Frédéric Buc
to the right of Faut Pas Poucer, on the North face of the boulder to the right of Grottesque.
30	Faut Pas Poucer 6b	wall	Frédéric Buc
on the North face of the boulder to the right of Grottesque.
31	L'Arête des Pavés 6a	arete	Pascal Etienne / Pepito
arete to the left of Faut Pas Poucer, on the North face of the boulder to the right of Grottesque.
33	Zone Interdite 7c	sitstart / roof / crack	Jérôme Ceccaldi
on the hill, 150m from the main sector, on the same boulder and to the left of Figure de Style. Sitstart in the roof, climb the overhanging crack and exit at its top. (GPS: N48.422640 E2.513850)
34	Figure de Style 7b	sitstart / roof	Jérôme Ceccaldi
on the hill, 150m from the main sector, to the right of Zone Interdite.
36	High Liner 7b+ (7c)	sitstart / overhang	Gilles Cottray
sitstart completely low, exit to the right towards a small crack. NB : it is the realization of the project n°3 in the first edition of the topo "7+8", p.168.
		Outside the topo
Le Smile 7a+		slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
to the right of the roof, in the middle of the slope, 80m to the North-West of Plastique Fantastik, in the sector Arcades. Sitstart on the rightt and exit by a mantle on the left. Access : from the parking lot of La ferme du Montrouget, pass the main sector, take Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne (GR) for 40m to the East and follow a small path up the slope to the South for 150m. The boulder is on the West side, in the middle of the slope, on the right face of a big roof.
Plastique Fantastik 7b+		traverse fltr / slopers	Thierry Guéguen
10m long traverse on a ledge in the sector Arcades. Start with a jug and exit completely right. Access : from the parking lot of La ferme du Montrouget, pass the main sector, take Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne (GR) for 40m to the East and then a small path up the slope on the South face of "Les Arcades". The traverse is near the top of the hill.
Plastique Fantastik en retour-aller 7c+ (8a)		traverse / slopers	Jean-Christophe Guibout
there and back on the boulder of Plastique Fantastik. Start to the right, traverse on slopers up the jug of the start of Plastique Fantastik, come back by the normal sense and exit above the starting point.
Silicon Carne 7b		traverse fltr / crimps	Andrej Bolán
8m traverse on the boulder to the left of the cave of Grottesque. Start completely left, low traverse, take vertical holds, pass the angle and exit in the crimpsy wall of Le Sale Bouleau.

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