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Roche aux Oiseaux : 7a and harder

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Other overviews 7a and harder: 18 straight-ups12 traverses
Topos: Roche aux Oiseaux (Bernard Théret)

Le Mur du Condor 6c (7a)wall / arete / expo-
 [ 1 video ]  [ 2 photos ] topo nº98; on the crest, 50m above the boulder of La Chouette. Start in the pit with crimps and climb the wall using the left arete (expo).

Le Sentier de l'Eau 6c (7a)traverse frtl-
***** on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. Start in the West face at a small ledge, pass a first angle, traverse in the face of L'Investiture, pass the second angle, continue as for Trous d'Eau on a physical ledge and exit by a mantle at its top.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  Trous d'Eau 6a

Morphine sans convention 6c+ (7a)dyno-
***** topo nº73b; to the right of the big boulder with La Chouette, to the opposite of L'Anar Chronique. Easier version of Morphine with a jump start to the horizontal ledge and and an exit by the right arete.
See also:  [ 2 photos ]  Morphine 8a

Coqueluche 6c+ (7a)overhangElric Besnier
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 15 photos ] in the North part of the sector of la Roche aux Oiseaux, 20m after the barrier, before a high boulder. Low start in the cave and exit directly (sitstart on the stone is 6c/6c+).
See also:  [ 3 photos ]  Coqueluche directe 6a,  [ 3 photos ]  Coqueluche gauche 6a,  [ 3 photos ]  Coqueluche debout 6b (6b+),  [ 6 photos ]  Coqueluche droite 6b+ (6c),  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 3 photos ]  La Traversée de Coqueluche 6c+ (7a)

La Traversée de Coqueluche 6c+ (7a)overhang / traverse fltr / sitstartElric Besnier
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 3 photos ] in the North part of the sector of la Roche aux Oiseaux, 20m after the barrier, before a high boulder. Low start in the cave as for Coqueluche and exit completely to the right of the boulder.
See also:  [ 3 photos ]  Coqueluche directe 6a,  [ 3 photos ]  Coqueluche gauche 6a,  [ 3 photos ]  Coqueluche debout 6b (6b+),  [ 6 photos ]  Coqueluche droite 6b+ (6c),  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 15 photos ]  Coqueluche 6c+ (7a)

Marteau Bourrin 6c+ (7a)roof / traverse fltr / wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº92; on the third big boulder to the left of La Chouette, in direction of the top of the hill. Start on the left in the roof, traverse on the ledge and exit directly in the wall without using the right arete as for La Planche Électrique.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  La Planche Électrique 6c

Plan de Vol 6c+ (7a)traverse frtl / crimps-
***** topo nº25b; start in Pulsion Aérienne, pass the angle, continue to traverse in the face of La Lyre and exit completely left in L'Oiseau de Paradis.

Brazil 7a (6c)sitstart / wall / mantleGilles Mauléon
*****  [ 4 realvideos ]  [ 7 photos ] topo nº61; on the boulder to the left of Le Mandarin.
Update (Spring 2007) : due to a broken hold, the sitstart has become slightly more difficult.


Action Directe assis 7a (6c+)roof / pockets / sitstartMax
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 3 realvideos ]  [ 10 photos ] topo nº57; low sitstart underneath the roof (7a) or a little more to the left has become a (classical 6b/6c) and exit in the axis by a mantle.

L'Anar Chronique 7atraverse frtl / roofMax
*****  [ 2 photos ] topo nº58c; in the low cave just before the high boulders. Start to the right and traverse in the roof without the supporting rock.
See also: L'Anar Chronique en Spirale 7c

Satan m'Habite debout 7aroof / arete-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 13 photos ] topo nº32'; standing start of Satan m'Habite, in the big roof / prow in the south of the area.
See also: Ça Tend à droite 7a,  [ 5 realvideos ]   [ 1 photo ]  Satan m'Habite 7b+, Ça Tend à gauche 7b+ (7c)

Uruguay 7awall / slopers / sitstartTony Fouchereau
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] topo nº65c; in the right face of the boulder of Brazil, behind a trunk. Sitstart in the overhang as for Le Faucon assis but exit on the right with slopers (slightly morpho).

La God Off 7atraverse fltr / pockets / slopersMax
*****  [ 3 photos ] topo nº28b; to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, on a characteristic boulder with big pockets. Start completely left, pass a first angle with a small roof, traverse the whole face with big pockets, pass a second angle, continue on slopers and exit at the next angle.
See also: Iconoclaste 5

La Super-Épingle 7atraverse / slightly overhangingPepito
***** topo nº107b; on the Eastern face of a boulder 80m to the West of Satan m'Habite. Start in Le Héron Cendré, downclimb at the crack, make the beginning of the back traverse and exit in L'Épingle.
See also:  [ 3 photos ]  Le Héron Cendré 6b,  [ 1 photo ]  Le Héron Cendré (aller-retour) 6c

Ça Tend à droite 7aroof / wallStéphane Brette
***** in the big roof/prow in the South of the area, 30m to the west of L'Anar Chronique. Sitstart on the right at the bottom of the roof as for Satan m'Habite, but exit 1m to the right of the prow.
NB : first known realization by Stéphane Brette.

See also:  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 13 photos ]  Satan m'Habite debout 7a,  [ 5 realvideos ]   [ 1 photo ]  Satan m'Habite 7b+, Ça Tend à gauche 7b+ (7c)

Le Picador 7a (7a+)traverse frtlChristophe Laumone
*****  [ 3 photos ] topo nº84; traverse on three faces on the boulder to the left of La Chouette. Sitstart with underclings as for La Tire au Cul, traverse a first face with pockets, a short second one, downclimb a bit at the corridor and exit completely left by a mantle on a small round angle.
See also: Le Petit Picador 6b

La Traversée de Brazil 7a+traverse frtl / wall-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 3 photos ] topo nº62; start to the right and exit in Brazil.

Le Porte-Avion 7a+ (7b)traverse fltr-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº4; on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. Traverse the face on the North, pass the angle and exit in L'Investiture.
NB : the convention of this traverse is not clearly defined.


La Révolution du Silence 7bsitstart / overhang / areteAlain Denis
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 3 photos ] topo nº80; sitstart on the backside of the high boulder with La Chouette, facing Alea Jacta Est.

Le Mandarin sans convention 7b (7c)overhang / slopers / sitstart-
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 6 photos ] topo nº67b; Le Mandarin without definition: the harder variant exits using the sloping pinch to the left; without definition it is allowed to use the pinch to the right.
See also:  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 6 photos ]  Le Mandarin 8a (7c+)

Orange Sanguine 7b+traverse fltr / crimps-
 [ 2 photos ] topo nº8; 15m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. Start at the arete to the right of Le Presse-Banane and traverse the face on crimps, without the top holds.

Satan m'Habite 7b+prow / roofSébastien Frigault
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 5 realvideos ]  [ 1 photo ] topo nº32; big roof/prow in the South of the area, 30m to the west of L'Anar Chronique. Sitstart on the right at the bottom of the roof and exit in the prow.
See also: Ça Tend à droite 7a,  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 13 photos ]  Satan m'Habite debout 7a, Ça Tend à gauche 7b+ (7c)

Ça Tend à gauche 7b+ (7c)roof / prowAurélien Sassier / David Evrard
***** topo nº32b; start completely low as for Satan m'Habite, but traverse in the middle of the roof and exit in the left face (7a+ from the middle of the roof).
See also: Ça Tend à droite 7a,  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 13 photos ]  Satan m'Habite debout 7a,  [ 5 realvideos ]   [ 1 photo ]  Satan m'Habite 7b+

Le Perroquet Vert 7b+ (7c)slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart-
*****  [ 2 photos ] topo nº44; sitstart on the South face of Contre-Emploi and exit on slopers, 20m to the West of Satan m'Habite.

Alea Jacta Est 7cwall / dynoPatrick Arias
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 5 photos ] topo nº96; to the right and above the big boulder with La Chouette, facing La Révolution du Silence (graffiti indicating a private property). (GPS: N48.379240 E2.507200)

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