Bleau.info : Roche aux Oiseaux : Topo

1	Le Bibelot 4+	slab	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
virtual 12 | to the opposite of Petit Toit, 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite.
2	Le Petit Toit 6a (6b)	overhang / wall	-
on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. To the left of Normal Blanc, in a small wall beginning by a slightly morphological roof.
2b	L'Abat-Jour 5-	traverse fltr	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
virtual 11 | on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. Start in Le Petit Toit and exit after the arete on slopers.
3	Normal Blanc 3+	slightly overhanging	-
on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. To the right Le Petit Toit, in a small slightly overhanging wall.
4	Le Porte-Avion 7a+ (7b)	traverse fltr	-
on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. Traverse the face on the North, pass the angle and exit in L'Investiture.NB : the convention of this traverse is not clearly defined.
5	Drôle d'Oiseau 5	wall	-
on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. Climb the left side of the arete using vertical holds.
5b	Trous d'Eau 6a	traverse frtl / mantle	-
on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. Low Start in Drôle d'Oiseau, to the left of the angle, traverse diagonally to the left using the holds on the top and exit via a mantle.
6	L'Investiture 4	wall / underclings	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
virtual 13 | on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite.
7	Le Presse-Banane 3+	wall	-
virtual 14 | on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. To the left of a "hat" on the top of the boulder.
7'	Le Presse-Banane assis 6b	wall / sitstart	-
on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. Sitstart and exit to the left of a "hat" on the top of the boulder.
8	Orange Sanguine 7b+	traverse fltr / crimps	-
15m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. Start at the arete to the right of Le Presse-Banane and traverse the face on crimps, without the top holds.
9	L'Arbre et l'Oiseau 5+	wall / pillar	-
to the right of Le Ro uge-Gorge near the tree, on the backside of the boulder to the opposite of La Lyre.
10	Le Rossignol 5-	wall	-
left problem on the South-East face of the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge.
11	La Tire à gauche 5+ (6a)	wall / slab	-
to the left of La Fastoche, in the center of the South-East face of the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge. Left variant of La Cent Blagues.
11b	La Cent Blagues 6a	wall / slab	-
to the left of La Fastoche, in the center of the South-East face of the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge.
12	La Fastoche 4+	slab / high	-
virtual 26 | high slab without the arete, otherwise 3+, to the right of the South-Eastern face of the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge.
13	Le Cygne 5+ (6a)	slab / crimps	-
left slab on the backside of the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge, in the corridor to the opposite of La Lyre.
14	Le Flamant Rose 5+ (6a)	slab / crimps	-
right slab on the backside of the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge, in the corridor to the opposite of La Lyre.
15	La Serrure 4+	wall / high	Noël Rotillon / Jean-Jacques Naëls
virtual 36 | right problem on the face to the opposite of La Lyre, on the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge..
16	L'Autruche 5- (5)	wall	-
arete left hand to the left of La Fauvette, on the North-Western face of the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge.
17	La Fauvette 5	wall / crack	-
virtual 24 | left problem in the wall of the North-Western face of Le Rouge-Gorge.
18	Le Pigeon 4- (5)	wall	-
virtual 25 | exit to the left or direct exit with grade 5, to the right of the South-Eastern face of the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge.
19	Le Rouge-Gorge 6a	wall	-
mur-pilier caractéristique sur la face Sud-Ouest du bloc situé en face de celui de La Lyre.
19'	Le Rouge-Gorge assis 6c	wall / sitstart	-
départ assis du mur-pilier caractéristique sur la face Sud-Ouest du bloc situé en face de celui de La Lyre.
20	L'Oisillon 4-	wall / arete	-
arete right hand to the left of L'Oiseau de Paradis.
21	L'Oiseau de Paradis 4	wall / arete	-
virtual 35 | eliminating wall with the arete left hand, in the corridor, on the boulder of La Lyre.
21b	L'Oiseau de Paradis direct 4+	wall	-
left problem in the corridor, on the boulder of La Lyre. Direct version of L'Oiseau de Paradis without the arete.
22	La Lyre 4-	crack	-
virtual 34 | evident crack in a corridor, 20m to the East of the roof of Satan m'Habite.
23	L'Oiseau-Lyre 6a+ (6b)	wall	-
direct wall to the right of the crack of La Lyre; morpho.
23b	Loi Sauvage 5+	wall	-
direct wall between the crack of La Lyre and the arete of L'Oiseau de Paradis.
24	La Tire à droite 5-	wall	-
virtual 33 | on the right face of the boulder of La Lyre, without the arete.
25	Pulsion Aérienne 6c	wall / slopers	-
direct wall with an exit on slopers, to the right of La Tire à droite, on the right face of the boulder of La Lyre.
25b	Plan de Vol 6c+ (7a)	traverse frtl / crimps	-
start in Pulsion Aérienne, pass the angle, continue to traverse in the face of La Lyre and exit completely left in L'Oiseau de Paradis.
26	La Fissure 4-	crack	-
virtual 32 | 15m to the North-West of characteristic boulder with big pockets near Le Chemin de la Saussaye.
27	Haute Voltige 4-	wall / high	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
virtual 27 | to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, on the backside of a characteristic boulder with big pockets.
28	Iconoclaste 5	traverse fltr / arete	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
virtual 30 | exit at the arete for your left hand
28b	La God Off 7a	traverse fltr / pockets / slopers	Max
to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, on a characteristic boulder with big pockets. Start completely left, pass a first angle with a small roof, traverse the whole face with big pockets, pass a second angle, continue on slopers and exit at the next angle.
29	Le Pic Vert 5	wall / pockets	Jean Claude Valluet
to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, on a characteristic boulder with big pockets. Central problem in the face in the corridor.
30	Le Freux 6a	wall / pockets	Jean Claude Valluet
to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, on a characteristic boulder with big pockets. Start in the corridor, to the left of the angle with the big pockets and exit directly
31	Rond de Cuir 4+	wall / slab	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
virtual 31 | to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, on a characteristic boulder with big pockets. Start with in the face to the right of the corridor (nd of the traverse of La God Off) and exit in the slab.
32	Satan m'Habite 7b+	prow / roof	Sébastien Frigault
big roof/prow in the South of the area, 30m to the west of L'Anar Chronique. Start on the right at the bottom of the roof and exit in the prow.
32'	Satan m'Habite debout 7a	roof / arete	-
standing start of Satan m'Habite, in the big roof / prow in the south of the area.
32b	Ça Tend à gauche 7b+ (7c)	roof / prow	Aurélien Sassier / David Evrard
start completely low as for Satan m'Habite, but traverse in the middle of the roof and exit in the left face (7a+ from the middle of the roof).
33	Demi-Lune 4-	wall	-
virtual 19 | to the right of the characteristic roof of Satan m'Habite.
34	Morte-Eau 4-	wall / crack / pockets	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
virtual 21 | right problem on the South face of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.
35	Le Col-Vert 5- (5)	wall	-
between Morte-Eau and Le Vilain Petit Canard, on the backside of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.
36	Le Vilain Petit Canard 5+	prow / slightly overhanging	-
slightly overhanging (and exposed) prow on the backside of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.
37	Le Canard Enchaîné 5+ (5-)	wall / crack	-
to the right of Le Le Vilain Petit Canard, on the backside of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.
37b	Pince-Oreille 5 (5+)	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / slab	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
virtual 20 | on the South face of the boulder of Satan m'Habite. Traverse to the left and exit in the slab using an undercling.
38	Pot de Colle 5 (5+)	slab	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
virtual 22 | left slab on the backside of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.
39	Hors-Jeu 6b	slab	-
direct slab on the backside of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.Update (July 2008) : a key foothold has broken off and the grade will certainly be modified.
40	L'Œil qui Rit 4+	slab	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
virtual 23 | slab with a small slope on the backside of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.
41	Le Perchoir 4-	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
virtual 15 | 15m to the West of Satan m'Habite.
42	L'Œuf de Poule 5+	slightly overhanging	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
virtual 16 | round belly to the right of Le Trou Normand, on the second boulder to the West of the roof of Satan m'Habite.
43	Le Trou Normand 4	arete	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
virtual 17 | low start on the wall with a big pocket to the left of L'Œuf de Poule, on the second boulder to the West of the roof of Satan m'Habite.
44	Le Perroquet Vert 7b+ (7c)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	-
sitstart on the South face of Contre-Emploi and exit on slopers, 20m to the West of Satan m'Habite.
45	Contre-Chant 6a	arete	-
arete right hand on a boulder 20m to the West of Satan m'Habite.
46	Contre-Emploi 5-	slab / arete	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
virtual 18 | slab and arete with your left hand
47	Le Pélican 6b	arete / sitstart	-
sitstart of the angle to the opposite of the arete of Contre-Emploi, 20m to the West of Satan m'Habite.
48	L'Hirondelle 3+	wall	-
left problem on the wall 20m to the West of Satan m'Habite.
49	Le Martinet 3+	wall	-
right problem on the wall 20m to the West of Satan m'Habite.
50	L'Échelle à Bascule 5	slab / arete	-
slab with the arete, on the Western face of a boulder 15m to the West of Satan m'Habite.
50b	L'Échelle à Bascule direct 6a+	slab	-
direct slab without the arete, on the Western face of a boulder 15m to the West of Satan m'Habite.
51	L'Échelle 2+	slab	-
to the right of L'Échelle à Bascule, on the Western face of a boulder 15m to the West of Satan m'Habite.
52	Le Lombric 3+	wall	-
small wall on the Southern face of a boulder 15m to the West of Satan m'Habite.
53	L'Ilot 5-	sitstart / underclings	-
sitstart with underclings on a small boulder 20m to the North-West of Satan m'Habite.
54	L'Ergot 6b	prow / sitstart	-
sitstart of the round prow on the backside of the boulder of L'Anar Chronique.
55	Le Ramier 3+	wall	-
small wall just left of the overhang of L'Anar Chronique.
56	Pigeon Vole 6b	prow / traverse fltr / sitstart	-
sitstart to the left in the overhang of L'Anar Chronique (exit of L'Anar Chronique en Spirale).
57	Action Directe assis 7a	pockets / roof	Max
lie down start underneath the roof; stay in the axe of the exit (easier when exiting a little more to the left).
58	Anti-Dogme 6a	wall	-
on the right of the overhang of L'Anar Chronique (sitstart is 6b/6b+).
58'	Anti-Dogme assis 6b (6b+)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart to the right in the overhang of L'Anar Chronique and exit directly.
58b	Anti-Action 6c	traverse frtl / wall	-
start as for Anti-Dogme, traverse to the left and exit in L'Anar Chronique.
58c	L'Anar Chronique 7a	traverse frtl / roof	Max
in the low cave just before the high boulders. Start to the right and traverse in the roof without the supporting rock.
58d	L'Anar Chronique en Spirale 7c	traverse / roof	Max
loop in the overhang of L'Anar Chronique : start completely low in the right of the roof, climb that one as for Anti-Dogme assis, traverse to the left with the holds of Anti-Action, pass through the tunnel and exit on the other side in Pigeon Vole.
59	Le Plongeoir 3+ (4-)	wall	-
on the boulder against and to the right of the overhang of L'Anar Chronique.
60	L'Oiseau Mouche 3+ (4-)	wall	-
on a small boulder between Brazil and L'Anar Chronique.
61	Brazil 7a (6c)	sitstart / wall / mantle	Gilles Mauléon
on the boulder to the left of Le Mandarin.Update (Spring 2007) : broken hold, still realizable?
62	La Traversée de Brazil 7a+	traverse frtl / wall	-
start to the right and exit in Brazil.
63	Le Pic Bleu 5	wall / arete	-
wall-arete on the right face of the boulder of Brazil.
64	Rideau de Fer 6c	wall / crimps	-
direct wall in the right face of the boulder of Brazil, behind a trunk.
65	Le Faucon 6a	wall / crimps	-
right problem on the right face of the boulder of Brazil, behind a trunk.
65b	Le Faucon assis 6c (7a)	wall / crimps / sitstart	-
in the right face of the boulder of Brazil, behind a trunk. Sitstart in the overhang and exit in the crimpsy wall of Le Faucon.
65c	Uruguay 7a	wall / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in the right face of the boulder of Brazil, behind a trunk. Sitstart in the overhang as for Le Faucon assis but exit on the right with slopers (slightly morpho).
66	La Mandarine 7c+	roof / prow	Sébastien Frigault
sitdownstart to the left of Le Mandarin.
67	Le Mandarin 8a (7c+)	roof / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
50m before L'Anar Chronique coming from the parking lot.
67b	Le Mandarin sans convention 7b (7c)	overhang / slopers / sitstart	-
Le Mandarin without definition: the harder variant exits using the sloping pinch to the left; without definition it is allowed to use the pinch to the right.
68	Oasis 6b	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	-
on the boulder with vegetation on its top behind Brazil, in direction of Morphine. Sitstart on the left with the two hands on the ledge, traverse on slopers and exit completely on the right.
69	Le Colibri 3+ (4-)	slab	Jean Claude Valluet
small slab on the boulder behind Brazil, in direction of the overhang of L'Anar Chronique.
70	Re-Création 3+	wall	Jean Claude Valluet
small wall on the boulder with vegetation on its top behind Brazil, in direction of Morphine.
71	Les Rapaces 4+	wall / pockets / pockets	-
on the left face of the boulder with Morphine.
72	Les Verrues 3+	prow / pockets	-
prow on the left of the boulder of Morphine; sitstart is 4b.
73	Morphine 8a	wall / underclings	Christophe Laumone
direct problem with a dynamic start to the right of the big boulder with La Chouette, facing L'Anar Chronique.
73b	Morphine sans convention 7a (6c+)	dyno	-
to the right of the big boulder with La Chouette, to the opposite of L'Anar Chronique. Easier version of Morphine with a jump start to the horizontal ledge and and an exit by the right arete.
74	L'Angle de Morphine 3+	arete	-
just right of the wall of Morphine.
75	La Dalle de Morphine 2+	wall / slab	-
on the backside of the boulder of Morphine; mossy (July 2008).
76	Le Hibou Lugubre 5+ (6a)	wall / high	-
high wall on the left face of the boulder of La Chouette.
77	Le Grand-Duc 6b	pillar / high	-
pillar on the high boulder with La Chouette.
78	La Chouette 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
to the right of the pillar, on the high boulder to the opposite of L'Anar Chronique.
79	La Cuit Cuit 6a+	wall / high	-
high wall to the right of La Chouette, on the big boulder to the opposite of L'Anar Chronique.
80	La Révolution du Silence 7b	sitstart / overhang / arete	Alain Denis
sitstart on the backside of the high boulder with La Chouette, facing Alea Jacta Est.
81	Le Petit Picador 6b	traverse frtl / pockets	-
shortened version of Le Picador, on the boulder to the left of La Chouette. Sitstart with underclings as for La Tire au Cul, traverse to the left with pockets and exit at the first angle.
82	Le Boyau 5	chimney	-
virtual 37 | slope on the boulder to the left of La Chouette.
83	La Tire au Cul 5	wall / high / sitstart	-
sitstart with underclings on the boulder just left of La Chouette.
84	Le Picador 7a+	traverse frtl	Christophe Laumone
traverse on three faces on the boulder to the left of La Chouette. Sitstart with underclings as for La Tire au Cul, traverse a first face with pockets, a short second one, downclimb a bit at the corridor and exit completely left by a mantle on a small round angle.
85	Propriété Privée 6c	pockets / arete / sitstart	-
on the Eastern side of the second boulder to the left of La Chouette, to the opposite of the exit of Le Picador, to the left of an arete with an old inscription "Propriété Privée". Sitstart with round pockets and exit via the arete.
86	Le Saut du Nid 6a	wall / toprope	-
most left problem, in the corridor, on the North-Western face of the second boulder to the left of La Chouette. (GPS: N48.379154 E2.507088)
87	L'Albatros 6c	wall / toprope	-
second problem from the left, in the corridor, on the North-Western face of the second boulder to the left of La Chouette. (GPS: N48.379154 E2.507088)
88	L'Aigle Royal 6b	wall / toprope	-
second problem from the right, in the corridor, on the North-Western face of the second boulder to the left of La Chouette. (GPS: N48.379154 E2.507088)
89	La Tourterelle 6a	wall / toprope	-
left problem in the corridor, on the North-Western face of the second boulder to the left of La Chouette. (GPS: N48.379154 E2.507088)
90	Prise de Bec 6a	wall / high	-
left problem on the South face of the second boulder to the left of La Chouette.
91	Le Coucou 5	wall / high	-
right problem on the South face of the second boulder to the left of La Chouette.
92	Marteau Bourrin 6c+ (7a)	roof / traverse fltr / wall	-
on the third big boulder to the left of La Chouette, in direction of the top of the hill. Start on the left in the roof, traverse on the ledge and exit directly in the wall without using the right arete as for La Planche Électrique.
93	La Planche Électrique 6c	overhang / underclings / wall	-
on the third big boulder to the left of La Chouette, in direction of the top of the hill. Start with the underclings of the roof and exit directly in the wall without using the right arete.
94	L'Aile Cassée 4-	wall / arete	-
arete to the right of La Planche Électrique, on the third big boulder to the left of La Chouette, in direction of the top of the hill.
95	Le Pinson 6a	wall / toprope	-
on the high boulder to the left of Alea Jacta Est. (GPS: N48.379154 E2.507088)
96	Alea Jacta Est 7c	wall / dyno	Patrick Arias
to the right and above the big boulder with La Chouette, facing La Révolution du Silence (graffiti indicating a private property). (GPS: N48.379240 E2.507200)
97	Le Sein de Glace 6b	arete / slopers	Jean-Jacques Naëls / Bruno Riote
round arete to the right of Alea Jacta Est. (GPS: N48.379240 E2.507200)
98	Le Mur du Condor 6c (7a)	wall / arete / expo	-
on the crest, 50m above the boulder of La Chouette. Start in the pit with crimps and climb the wall using the left arete (expo).
99	Sorix 6b+	overhang / traverse fltr	-
on the crest at the top of the hill, 50m after Le Mur du Condor, in a corridor. Low start on the right in the roof, traverse diagonally and exit on slopers.
100	L'Épervier 6b	wall / expo	-
on the South-Western face of a boulder on the crest at the top of the hill, 50m after Le Mur du Condor. Lichenous (July 2008).
101	Migration Lente 6b	arete / wall	-
left angle on a boulder at the top of the hill, on the crest. Start with the angle and exit in the wall with a dynamic move (expo).
102	Les Ailes du Temps 5+	slightly overhanging / slopers	-
right angle on a boulder at the top of the hill, on the crest.
103	Batman 8a	traverse fltr / crimps	Christophe Laumone
on an isolated boulder in the South-Western part of the sector, near the ONF limit of the Trois Pignons forest. Sitstart with the two hands in a hole, continue under a small overhang and exit in the other face with crimps.
104	Les Fourmis Volantes 4- (4)	wall / slightly overhanging	-
belly on a boulder 100m to the West of Satan m'Habite (exit by the right crack is 6a/6a+).
105	Sale Taon 6b	traverse fltr / slightly overhanging	-
on a boulder 100m to the West of Satan m'Habite. Start in Les Fourmis Volantes, traverse to the right and exit in the belly. Lichenous (July 2008).
106	Le Héron Cendré 6b	traverse frtl / pockets	-
traverse to the left on the Eastern face of a boulder 80m to the West of Satan m'Habite.
106b	Le Héron Cendré (aller-retour) 6c	traverse / pockets	-
on the Eastern face of a boulder 80m to the West of Satan m'Habite. Start in Le Héron Cendré, downclimb at the crack, make the the back traverse.
107	L'Épingle 6b	slightly overhanging / slab / sitstart	-
sitstart in the slightly overhanging part of the boulder of Héron Cendré and exit via the slab. Standing start is 6a.
107b	La Super-Épingle 7a	traverse / slightly overhanging	-
on the Eastern face of a boulder 80m to the West of Satan m'Habite. Start in Le Héron Cendré, downclimb at the crack, make the beginning of the back traverse and exit in L'Épingle.
108	La Limace 6a+ (6b)	wall	-
on the South face of a boulder, 50m to the West of Satan m'Habite.