Bleau.info : Petit Bois : Topo

thanks to Bernard Théret

In Saint-Pierre lès-Nemours (easily accessible from Larchant by the D16), take the Rue des Hêtres and follow a path for 300m. The circuits are close to the parking lot.

A	Big Dragon 8a (8a+)	slightly overhanging / slopers	David Graham
on the boulder with red n°1, underneath Big Jim. Low start with underclings and finish with the right arete, a spike and pockets.
B	L'Œuf 7b	arete / slopers	Bernard Théret
on the right face of the boulder of Big Jim.
C	Black Jim 7a	traverse fltr / wall / high	Bernard Théret
start in red n°3, traverse to the right to exit in Big Jim (black n°4).
D	Tapis Roulant 7a	traverse frtl / slopers	Bernard Théret
start in black n°5 and exit in black n°6. NB : the chipped bidoigt before the big sloper can be avoided...
E	Le Poids des Soupirs 7b+ (7c)	dyno	Alexis Allayaud
in between red n°44 and black n°33 bis, on the boulder of Le Mur du Son.
F	Paddy 7c+ (8a)	wall / slopers	David Graham
to the right of blue n°66, to the opposite of red n°44, on the boulder above Le Mur du Son; morpho.
G	Le Chat Noir 6c (7a)	crimps / mantle / sitstart	Bernard Théret
at the top of the sector, on the arrival boulder of the black circuit. Sitstart 1m to the right of Le Chat de Gouttière (black n°36) and exit by a mantle in this problem.
H	Le Bombyx 7a	wall / expo	Yano Salaün
in between blue n°42 and blue n°43.
I	Envolage 6c	arete / crimps / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on the left of the sector. Sitstart in the characteristic overhanging arete of Les Petits Vérins and exit directly along that one.
J	Pieds Fins 6b+ (6c)	wall / slab	Bernard Théret
between blue n°18 and blue n°17, on a triangular boulder. Start on crimps, take the crack right hand and exit directly.
1	Préchauffe 5	slab / slopers	Bernard Théret
black 1 | just right of the angle.
2	La Ballade de Jim 7a	traverse frtl / bidoigt	Bernard Théret
black 2 | start to the right of Big Jim, traverse on bidoigts, pass the angle and exit to the left of the second face after the crack.
2bis	T Comme Tarzan 7a+	high / wall	Emmanuel Ratouis
black 2 bis | to the left of blue n°5, on the boulder of Big Jim.
3	Passage à l'Acte 7a+	wall / bidoigt / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
black 3 | to the right of Big Jim.
4	Big Jim 6c (6c+)	high / monos / pockets	Bernard Théret
black 4 | situated near the road, utterly right on the big boulder; top rope bolt is in place.
5	Le Dolmen 6c	traverse frtl / pockets	Bernard Théret
black 5 | on the boulder facing La Baleine. Start on the right, traverse on pockets and exit in red n°5. NB : the chipped bidoigt before the big sloper can be avoided...
6	Rataplazip 6b+	pockets / mantle / slopers	Bernard Théret
black 6 | direct problem before the end of the traverse of black n°5.
7	La Baleine 7a (7a+)	prow / slopers	Bernard Théret
black 7 | slightly overhanging prow above the start of the circuits.
8	Le Triangle d'Or 6b	traverse frtl / wall	Bernard Théret
black 8 | traverse to the left and exit in the center of the wall, before red n°8 (6a+ by exiting in that one).
9	Remise à l'Heure 6a (6a+)	traverse fltr / arete	Bernard Théret
black 9 | start on the left of the dihedral traverse to the right and exit via the arete.
10	Big Ben 6a+	traverse fltr / wall	Bernard Théret
black 10 | traverse to the right and exit to the right of red n°12.
11	Le Casse Tibia 6b	wall / crimps	Bernard Théret
black 11 | mur demandant de l'allonge.
11bis	Morte Plaine 7c (7c+)	slopers	Bernard Théret
between Les Petit Vérins (black n°11) and black n°12, above the parking lot. NB : lichened (July 2009).
12	Les Petits Vérins 6a+	slightly overhanging / arete	Bernard Théret
black 12 | characteristic overhanging arete on the left of the sector. Sitstart is 6c.
13	Parapente 6b	wall	Bernard Théret
black 13 | in a belly.
14	Le GR Bloc 6b	traverse fltr / wall	Bernard Théret
black 14 | above the GR. Traverse to the right and exit in the wall.
15	Les Douves 6c	wall / pockets	Bernard Théret
black 15 | traverse to the right on a face with characteristic pockets and exit after the angle.
16	Le Bi-Blocs 6b	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
black 16 | traverse to the right on two consecutive boulders. Lichnenous (July 2009).
17	Bidoigt pour Monocéphale 6c	traverse frtl / bidoigt	Bernard Théret
black 17 | along the GR13. Traverse to the left and exit via the arete.
17bis	Convulsions 7b (7b+)	traverse fltr / underclings / bidoigt	Bernard Théret
along the GR 13, in the North of the sector. Start at the overhanging arete, traverse under the overhang, pass the second angle, traverse in the wall (return of black n°17) and exit via a mantle.
18	L'Escalier 6a+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
black 18 | traverse to the right along the path, near the stairs.
19	L'angle Mobil 6b+	arete	Bernard Théret
black 19 | smooth wall-arete to the left of Le Doigt Carré (black n°20).
20	Le Doigt Carré 6b+	wall	Bernard Théret
black 20 | in the center of a wall with an overhanging start.
20bis	L'Éjectoire 6a+	wall	Bernard Théret
on the right face of Le Doigt Carré (black n°20).
21	Le Rebord Retors 7a	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
black 21 | near the top of the hill. Update : the traverse is mossed (June 2006).
22	La Prise Clé 7a	traverse fltr / wall / arete	Bernard Théret
black 22 | traverse crossing the arete to the right of Rebord Retors. NB : recently brushed (June 2006).
23	L'Emoréta 6b	arete	Bernard Théret
black 23 | on the left angle of the boulder of Le Pro-Pulse.
24	Ligne de Force 6b+	wall / crack	Bernard Théret
black 24 | on the left of Le Pro-Pulse.
24bis	Le Pro-Pulse 7a+	wall / crimps / dyno	Bernard Théret
black 24 bis | dyno on slopers from small crimps.
25	Sur-Prise 6b+	wall	Bernard Théret
black 25 | on the right of Le Pro-Pulse.
26	Le Plat Pays 6b+	wall / slopers	Bernard Théret
black 26 | behind the right angle on the boulder of Le Pro-Pulse.
26bis	Coup de Barre 6b	wall	Bernard Théret
on the backside of the boulder of Le Pro-Pulse.
27	Les Vacances à Bombay 6c+ (7a)	wall / slopers / mantle	Bernard Théret
black 27 | on the left face of the boulder of Le Mur du Son. Start with crimps and exit by a mantle on slopers.
27bis	Conduite Rapide 6c	wall	Bernard Théret
on the backside of the boulder of Le Mur du Son, in a pit.
28	Élongation 6b	wall / underclings	Bernard Théret
black 28 | to the right of Les Vacances à Bombay.
29	Machine à Jambon 6c	traverse frtl / crimps	Bernard Théret
black 29 | start at Élongation, low traverse and exit to the left of Les Vacances à Bombay.
30	L'Angle Rotulien 6b+ (6b)	arete	Bernard Théret
black 30 | arete between the faces of Les Vacances à Bombay and Le Mur du Son.
31	La Cruxi-Fiction 6c	wall	Bernard Théret
black 31 | just left of Le Mur du Son.
31bis	Le Mur du Son 7c (7b+)	wall / crimps	Bernard Théret
black 31 bis | to the left of Arc Angel, in a corridor.
32	Les Beaux Quartiers 6b+	wall / high	Bernard Théret
black 32 bis | just right of Le Mur du Son.
32bis	Arc Angel 7a	wall	Bernard Théret
black 32 ter | ascending traverse to the left of black n°32; same exit as for Le Mur du Son.
33	Vengeance du Triceps 6b+	slightly overhanging / slopers	Bernard Théret
black 33 | at the end of the corridor along the face of Le Mur du Son.
33bis	Angle et Terre 6b+	wall / arete	Bernard Théret
black 32 | completely right, on the face of Le Mur du Son.
34	Des Pieds et des Mains 6a+	wall / slopers	Bernard Théret
black 34 | on the boulder above Le Mur du Son.
35	Vive les Vacances 6c	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
start completely left inthe corridor, traverse on crimps and exit at a jug.
35bis	Travaux Forcés 7b	traverse fltr / crimps	Bernard Théret
black 35 | near the top of the hill, on a slowly drying boulder. Start in the left of corridor as for black n°35, low traverse with crimps and exit in red n°49, via the right arete.
36	Le Chat de Gouttière 6b+	slopers / mantle	Bernard Théret
black 36 | mantle on a smooth ramp at the top of the sector.
A	Big Dragon assis 8a+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Christophe Cazin
on the boulder with red n°1, underneath Big Jim. Sitstart without crash-pad with the big undercling of the standing start right hand and a smaller one left hand and finish with the right arete, a spike and pockets.
		Outside the topo
Angle Roc 4-		-	-
former blue n°51.
La Boule 5		-	-
former red n°32, underneath the actual one.
Pour les Nèfles 5-		-	-
former red n°41, to the left of Les Vacances à Bombay.
Le Réta Commun 5-		wall / mantle	-
former red n°48, to the left of the exit of Travaux Forcés.
Claire de Lune 3-		-	-
former yellow n°12.
Dans la Gueule du Lion 3		-	-
former yellow n°39.
Basse Énergie 3-		downclimbing / traverse frtl / wall	-
former yellow n°53.
Les Gais Lurons 6c (7a)		wall / slopers	-
start in La Cruxi-Fiction (n°31 noir), traverse to the right on slopers and exit just before Le Mur du Son. NB : première réalisation connue par Stéphane Carcone et Gérald Coste.
La Psycho-Trav 7c (7c+)		traverse fltr	Tony Fouchereau
start in La Cruxi-Fiction (n°31 noir), traverse to the right with top holds, downclimb to the key hold of Poids des Soupirs and exit with the arete.
La Psycho-Trav (sans l'arête) 7c+ (8a)		traverse fltr / dyno	Tony Fouchereau
start in La Cruxi-Fiction (n°31 noir), traverse to the right with top holds, downclimb to the key hold of Poids des Soupirs and exit by the dyno of that one (without the arete).
Ascenseur pour l'Échafaud 7a+		wall / pockets / high	Loïc Le Denmat / Romain Monnier
near the road, on the first big boulder of the sector. Climb the wall with the holds of Big Jim left hand and those of Passage à l'Acte right hand and exit at the top by a dynamic move.

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