Bleau.info : Roche qui Tourne : Topo

thanks to Frédéric Buc & Gilles Cottray

From Paris, take the exit Milly-la-Forêt on the motorway, then the D372 in direction of Milly, turn left at an unpaved road to the opposite of Courances, and park the car at Le Carrefour de Montignotte. Follow the GR which turns right at a barrier; the sector is on the left of the path after a bend to the left and another one to the right. The first boulders can be seen after hives and those of La Montignotte are just on the other side of the path.

1	Beau d'Ruche 7a	pillar / sitstart / crimps	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart at the arete, exit to the left of that one.
1	Bras Long 6c+	slightly overhanging / crimps	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
just left of Beau d'Ruche.
3	Gaine de Voyou 6c	pillar / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart as for Beau d'Ruche but exit directly.
4	La Dalle à Plats 5	slab	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the right of Beau d'Ruche.
5	Nivelator 6a	slab	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
slab without arete, completely to the right of the face of Beau d'Ruche.
6	- 5-	slab	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
slab without the arete at the beginning of the sector.
7	Variance 5	slab / arete	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
slab with the arete to the right (6a+ without that one).
8	L'Idée Hâle 6a+	wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
wall without the right arete at the beginning of the sector.
9	Petite Proue 6a (6a+)	prow / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart of a small prow.
10	La Faille 6a+	traverse fltr	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
traverse ltr in a corridor at the beginning of the sector.
14	La Torsade 5+	-	Pepito
to the right of the boulder wir=th bees.
15	La Fissure aux Abeilles 5-	crack	Pepito
on a boulder with bees.
16	- 5	wall / pillar	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
small marbled pillar at the beginning of the sector.
17	- 4+	slab	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
right slab.
18	- 4	slab	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
second slab from the right.
19	Zip 6b	slab	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
second slab from the left.
20	Zape 6a	slab	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
left slab.
21	Le Sol est Terre 6c	traverse frtl	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on a boulder 80m to the East of Con Torsion, at the same height. Traverse underneath the overhang and exit on the other face.
22	Soue Pire 7a	traverse fltr	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
80m to the East ofCon Torsion, at the same height. Sitstart completely left, traverse under the roof and exit on the other side.
23	Bauge Est 7a+	overhang	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
80m to the East of Con Torsion, at the same height.
26	Con Torsion 6b	wall / underclings	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
standing start, take the undercling right hand and exit by a mantle on slopers without the left arete.
26	Con Torsion assis 7a (7a+)	slightly overhanging / underclings / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart in the pit, take the undercling right hand and exit in Con Torsion by a mantle on slopers without using the left arete.
27	La Corne qui Touche 6a+	sitstart / slightly overhanging / wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart to the right of Con Torsion.
28	Le Tourne Roche 6c	traverse fltr / roof / wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of Con Torsion. Start at the left angle, traverse on jugs in the overhang and exit before the right arete.
30	The Bout 6a	wall / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart of a wall at the center of sector.
31	Le Bêtisier 5+	traverse fltr	Pepito
traverse to the right on two faces and exit before the second angle with a nameless pillar.
32	- 4+	wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
small wall at the center of the sector.
33	- 5-	pillar	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
in the center of the sector.
34	- 5-	wall / crimps	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
crimpsy wall 3m to the right of Claquettes.
34'	- 6a (6b)	wall / crimps / sitstart	-
sitstart of the crimpsy wall 3m to the right of Claquettes.
35	- 6c	slightly overhanging / crimps	Pascal Etienne / Pepito
just right of Claquettes.
36	Claquettes 7a+	overhang / arete / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
sitstart on the left in the overhang, take a crimp in the right face and exit with the arete on the left.
37	- 5+ (6a)	-	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
left around the corner of Claquettes.
38	- 4	wall / belly	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
small belly in a corridor.
39	- 4	wall / crimps / crack	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
crimpsy wall in a cracked face in a corridor.
41	- 5	underclings / slightly overhanging	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the right of Rétatouille.
42	Rétatouille 7a (7a+)	dyno / mantle	Frédéric Buc
dyno and exit to the left (the right exit is 6a).
43	Trahison 6a	traverse	-
ltr or rtl traverse on the boulder of Rétatouille.
45	L'Insoumise 5+	slab	-
slab without the left arete at the center of the sector.
46	Le Pas de Cinq 5+	pillar / arete	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
pillar-arete right hand (6b+ without the arete).
47	Objectif Nul 6b+	wall / dyno	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the left of the pillar of Le Pas de Cinq.
48	- 5+	sitstart / slightly overhanging	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
right exit of the slightly overhanging wall on the backside of L'Insoumise.
49	- 5	pillar	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
small round pillar on the boulder of L'Ovale.
50	- 5+	sitstart / wall / underclings	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on the left face of the boulder of L'Ovale.
51	La Ronde 6a	wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
wall with round holds in the center of the sector.
52	Belle de Jour 6b	wall / sitstart	Pepito
sitstart in the wall on the right face of the boulder of La Ronde and exit in L'Ovale.
52b	L'Ovale 6a+	traverse fltr / wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of La Ronde. Traverse to the right, pass the angle and exit in Belle de Jour.
54	L'Insignifiant 6b	wall / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on the boulder to the opposite of L'Ovale. Sitstart and climb diagonally the wall to the right of the arete.
55	L'Un Posé 6b (6b+)	wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
without the arete.
56	Crispettes et Chuintements 7a	wall	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
direct wall without the arete/crack to the left, on a boulder to the left of La Chenille. NB : easier with the vertical hold on the left which was not used with the 7a+ opening method.
58	La Chenille 7a	sitstart / roof / slopers	Frédéric Buc
in a North face with a black-painted number "30". Sitstart to the left of the overhang, take slopers and exit with vertical holds. Beginning by a rtl traverse from a sitstart with two pockets on the right is 7b.
58'	L'Aller de la Chenille 7a+ (7b)	traverse frtl / roof / slopers	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart from the pocket underneath the step, traverse to the left and exit in La Chenille.
59	Maître à Tribord 7c+	overhang / slopers / dyno	Thierry Guéguen
to the right of La Chenille. Sitstart in the center of the overhang, make an ascending traverse on slopers and exit to the right of the face.
60	Dos Cille 6c	roof / wall / slopers	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
start from a flat stone with an undercling left hand and a verical hold right hand and exit above on slopers.
60'	Dos Fin 7a	wall / roof / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
sitstart from the pocket underneath the step (start of the traverse of La Chenille), traverse to the start of the 6c of and exit in that one on slopers.
60''	Dos Extra Fin 7b	traverse fltr / roof / arete	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
start completely to the left of the roof as for La Chenille, traverse to the right in the tunnel and exit in Dos Fin.
61	Dos Miné 6b+	sitstart / wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart and exit in the wall with the marbled nubbin, to the right of the exit of Dos Fin.
62	Ventre Bleu 6c	arete / belly / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart of the round belly to the left of Dos Fin.
63	La Fissure de l'Abri 3	crack	-
on the boulder to the left of Dos Fin, just above a bivouac.
64	- 5	pillar	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on the boulder to the left of Dos Fin; with or without the arete to the left.
65	L'Écart y Est assis 6c+	arete / sitstart	Frank Bogerman
sitstart of the arete of L'Écart y Est on the boulder to the left of Dos Fin.
65'	L'Écart y Est 6a+	arete	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
on the boulder to the left of Dos Fin. Standing start of a chipped arete of an old quarry.
67	L'Ami Daniel 6b	traverse frtl / wall / underclings	Pepito
on the boulder after Dos Fin, to the East of the main sector. Sitstart, traverse to the left and exit in Les Écritures (n°51 of the topo).
68	- 5 (5+)	wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
right problem with a pocket on the boulder after Dos Fin, at the East of the main sector.
69	La Fissure de la Douleur 6b (6c)	crack	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
cracked wall to the right of Talon Haut. Named "La Fissure Anale" in "Bleau de Grès 6".
70	Les Écritures 5+	wall / underclings	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
wall to the right of Talon Haut on the boulder after Dos Fin, to the East of the main sector.
71	Talon Haut 6c	arete	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
left arete on the boulder after Dos Fin, on the East of the main sector.
72	Le Trou Perdu 6b	wall / pockets / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
underneath of Dos Fin, completely to the East of the main sector. Sitstart and climb the wall with good pockets.
		Outside the topo
Pagota 8a		roof / sitstart	David Graham / Jos Leenen
n°1 of the topo of the sector Pagota.Access : from the parking lot, follow the GR, pass the classical sector, take on the left Le Chemin de Courances à Coquibus and go up the slope between two small hills; the boulder is just behind.
Hole of Luck 6b+		roof / sitstart	Jos Leenen / Duncan Sewing
n°5 of the topo of the sector Pagota, on the boulder after Pagota.
Pythagoras 6c		traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Jos Leenen
n°6 in the topo of the sector Pagota. Sitstart and traverse diagonally to the right on a ledge of slopers.
Pauvre Pareur 6a		slab	Jos Leenen / Ronald de Backere
n°3 of the topo of the sector Pagota; right exit of the slab above Pagota.
Reach Out 6a		slab	Ronald de Backere / Wouter van der Baan
n°2 of the topo of the sector Pagota; left exit of the slab above Pagota.
Warm Up 5		crack	Jos Leenen
n°4 of the topo of the sector Pagota, to the left of Hole of Luck.
Sahara 7a (7a+)		roof / sitstart	Thierry Plaud
right problem in a small roof 80m to the North of Pagota. Sitstart on the ground to the right of the overhang with the two hands on the pedestal and exit directly. Access : shortly before Pagota, go down on a small path towards the North and then up in the slope exposed to the South; the boulder is then on the right.
Senseï 7c+		roof / sitstart	Thierry Plaud
left problem in a small roof 80m to the North of Pagota. Sitstart on the ground to the right of the overhang with the two hands on the pedestal as for Sahara, traverse under the roof and exit completely left. Access : shortly before Pagota, go down on a small path towards the North and then up in the slope exposed to the South; the boulder is then on the right.
Coin Perdu 6b		prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
overhanging prow 10m to the South-East of Sahara, in a slope exosed to the Soth. Sitstart on the pedestal and exit by the prow.

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