Bleau.info : Coquibus Vendée : Topo

This sector, explored in the 90's, has long been confidential. Several independant teams have recently rediscovered the boulders and opened many problems of all levels. However, the presence of the houses of La Maison Forestière de la Vendée makes this sector particularly sensible. The climbers must be particularly discrete and respect strictly the limited possibilities for parking their cars.

3	Vendée-Tas 6c	arete	Gilles Cottray
left angle on a big boulder completely to the right of the sector when going up the slope from the parking lot of Le Chemin du Tramway.
6	Le Vendée Globe 6a+	overhang / mantle / sitstart	-
on the first boulder when going up the slope to the right from the parking lot of Le Chemin du Tramway. Sitstart, traverse to the left with a bidoigt and exit by a mantle on slopers.
7	Que Dalle 3-	slab	Jean-Claude Valluet
left problem on a slab in the South face, on the right of the chaos with the fallen trees.
7b	Là-Bas 3	slab	-
right problem on a slab in the South face, on the right of the chaos with the fallen trees.
8	Vieille Taupe 7a+	traverse frtl	Max
in the South face, on the right of the chaos with the fallen trees. Sitstart, traverse to the left and exit after the angle, either completely low (opening method) or with the slopers on the top. Exit at the tree is 6c.
9	Matière Première 4+	wall / slab	-
direct problem at the beginning of the traverse of Vieille Taupe, in the South face, on the right of the chaos with the fallen trees.
10	One Man Show 5+	crack / sitstart	-
sitstart of the crack at the middle of the traverse of Vieille Taupe, in the South face, on the right of the chaos with the fallen trees.
12	La Taupinière 5-	wall	-
exit of Vieille Taupe, in the South face, on the right of the chaos with the fallen trees.
13	Première Internationale raccourci 6b	traverse fltr / mantle	-
shortened version of Première Internationale, in the South face. Start completely left, pass the angle and exit 1m50 after that one, before the fallen tree.
14	La Proue de l'Internationale 4-	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart of the overhanging prow at the angle of the traverse of Première Internationale.
15	Bel Ouvrage 4-	wall	-
in the middle of the first face of the traverse of Première Internationale.
16	Première Internationale 7a+	traverse fltr	Max
in the South face above the parking lot of Le Chemin du Tramway. Start left, pass a first angle and exit at the end of the second face after the fallen tree.
18	Les Gueules Noires 6c	traverse fltr / sitstart	Max
on the backside of the boulder of L'Armée Nie, at the top of the chaos in the South face. Sitstart in a narrow corridor, traverse to the right and exit at the pillar.
19	Le P'tit Cœur gauche 4+	wall	-
left problem to the left of the start of the traverse of L'Armée Nie, in the South face of the area.
20	Le P'tit Cœur droite 3	wall	Jean-Claude Valluet
right problem to the left of the start of the traverse of L'Armée Nie, in the South face of the area.
21	L'Armée Nie 6b	traverse fltr	Jean-Claude Valluet / Max
at the center of the chaos in the South face. Traverse to the right (slightly downclimbing), pass the angle and exit on the other side.
21b	Station Service 6a (6b)	traverse frtl / slopers	Blokeur
in the center of the South chaos. Start in the overhang, make the back traverse of L'Armée Nie and exit completely left on slopers.
23	Ainsi Soit Tilt 6a	traverse frtl	Jean-Claude Valluet / Max
at the bottom of the chaos in the South face. Start at a jug, traverse to the left and exit at a round angle.
24	Le Petit Toit 7a	roof / mantle / sitstart	Alain Denis / Max
on the North face of a boulder at the top of the chaos on the South side of the area. Sitstart in the roof and exit by a mantle on slopers.
24b	Kami-No-Ku 7c+	roof / sitstart / traverse fltr	Sébastien Frigault
on the North face of a boulder at the top of the chaos on the South side of the area. Sitstart in the roof as for Le Petit Toit, low traverse on small holds and exit to the right.
25	Le Mouvement Makhanoviste 7b	traverse fltr	Max / Thierry Guéguen
on the boulder on the left, at the top of the South chaos. Start before the upper angle, traverse a first face with a slight downclimbing, pass a round angle, continue inn the second face and exit after the next angle.
25b	Le Mouvement Makhanoviste raccourci 6c	traverse fltr	Max
on the boulder on the left, at the top of the South chaos. Start before the upper angle, traverse a first face with a slight downclimbing, pass a round angle and exit just after, in Cash.
26	Cash 6b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
sitstart of the crack on the left of the second face of the traverse of Le Mouvement Maknoviste, at the top of the south chaos.
27	TTc 7a (7a+)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
sitstart in the middle of the second face of the traverse of Le Mouvement Maknoviste, at the top of the south chaos.
29	La Nestor 6c	traverse frtl	Max
on the first boulder to the right of the path from the parking lot of Le Chemin du Tramway. Start right, traverse with low holds and exit completely left. NB : to be rebrushed (July 2010).
30	Le Stylobathe 6c	traverse fltr	Jean-Claude Valluet / Alain Denis
on the first boulder to the left of the path from the parking lot of Le Chemin du Tramway. Start left, traverse on horizontal holds and exit on the right arete.
32	Douleur Apache 5	wall	Jean-Claude Valluet
direct wall above Le Chemin de la Roche à Diane, near the bottom of the slope, at the West of the sector.
33	Quart à Pattes 6b+	belly / mantle	Thierry Guéguen
mantle on slopers above Le Chemin de la Roche à Diane, near the bottom of the slope, at the West of the sector.
35	Cathé-Schiste 6a	traverse frtl / sitstart	Alain Denis / Jean-Claude Valluet
in the South face, just under the crest, completely to the West of the sector. Sitstart, traverse with a horizontal crack and exit at the end of the face.
37	Cela se Fit Sûr 4	crack	Jean-Claude Valluet
right problem on the boulder of Fin Givré, in the North face, just under the crest, completely to the West of the sector. Sitstart is 5a.
38	Matamore 6a	wall	-
on the boulder of Fin Givré, in the North face, just under the crest, completely to the West of the sector. Climb the wall to the left of Cela se Fit Sûr without using that one.
39	Denrée Rare 6a+ (6b)	wall	-
third problem from the right on the boulder of Fin Givré, in the North face, just under the crest, completely to the West of the sector. Start as for Denrée Périmée but exit at the highest point.
39b	Denrée Périmée 6a	wall	-
third problem from the right on the boulder of Fin Givré, in the North face, just under the crest, completely to the West of the sector. Start as for Denrée Rare but exit easily on the right.
40	Fin Givré 7a	wall / slab / toprope	-
central problem on a 6m high boulder located in the North face, just under the crest, completely to the West of the sector. Start from the ground and climb the wall-slab to its highest point above a boulder. NB : only realized toprope.
41	Éthique Synthétique 6c	slightly overhanging / dyno	-
left problem on the boulder of Fin Givré, in the North face, just under the crest, completely to the West of the sector. Dyno at the start and climb the wall with or without the arete.
41b	Valse d'un Jour 6c	traverse frtl / wall	-
low traverse on the boulder of Fin Givré, in the North face, just under the crest, completely to the West of the sector. Start at the crack of Cela se Fit Sûr, traverse to the left and exit in Éthique Synthétique.
42	Taureau Assis 6a (6a+)	traverse frtl	Jean-Claude Valluet / Max
in the North face, underneath the boulder of Fin Givré.
42b	Le Manège 7b	traverse frtl / slopers	Alain Denis
in the North face underneath the crest. Sitstart, climb the ascending ledge on slopers and exit before the angle.
42b	Taureau Assis en aller-retour 6b+	traverse	-
there and back of Taureau Assis, in the North face, underneath the boulder of Fin Givré.
44	Le Manège Enchanté 7b+	traverse frtl / slopers	Thierry Guéguen
in the North face underneath the crest. Sitstart, climb the ascending ledge on slopers and exit after the angle.
45	L'Angle du Manège 5	arete	Patrick Sercki
left arete on the boulder of Manège Enchanté, in the North face underneath the crest.
46	Choubie 6a	traverse frtl / mantle	Sandra Roche
in the North face, just underneath the crest. Start right, traverse on the ledge and exit by a mantle completely left.
46b	Choubie en retour-aller 6b	traverse / mantle	-
there and back of Choubie, in the North face, just underneath the crest.
48	La Randall 3-	slab	Jean-Claude Valluet
15m to the right of Mohawk, in the North face, under the crest.
49	Appaloosa 4+	pillar / high	Thierry Guéguen / Ivan Maucuit
10m to the right of Mohawk, in the North face, under the crest. Sitstart on the right is 5c/6a.
50	Le Têtu 6a+ (6b)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Sébastien Herbst
sitstart of the small boulder just right of Mohawk, in the North face, under the crest.
52	Mohawk 6c (6c+)	wall / crimps	Didier Gérardin / Alain Denis
evident wall in the North face, just under the crest. Start with a good hold on the right, take the undercling and exit with a thin crack.
52b	Mohawk direct 7a	wall / crimps	Didier Gérardin / Alain Denis
direct version of Mohawk, on an evident wall in the North face, just under the crest. Start with crimps and exit with a thin crack without using the big hold on the right nor the undercling.
54	Papeete 6a (6b)	wall / arete	Max / Thierry Guéguen
left arete on the boulder of Mohawk, in the North face, under the crest.
57	Desiderata 7b+	wall / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault
just right of AdréAdeline, in the big wall with a characteristic conch in the North face. Sitstart with the right hold, take the hold to the right of the conch and dyno right hand to a good hold to the right of the top.
58	AdréAdeline 7a+ (7b)	wall	Alain Denis
big wall with a characteristic conch on the boulder to the left of Mohawk, in the North face, under the crest. Start with crimps just under the conch and exit at the very top with or without the left arete at the end.
58b	La Traversée d'AdréAdeline 7b (7b+)	wall / traverse frtl / sitstart	Alain Denis
on the big wall with a characteristic conch in the North face. Sitstart with the right hold, traverse for 1m50 to the left and exit in AdréAdeline.
59	Délinette 5	arete / slightly overhanging	Thierry Guéguen / Ivan Maucuit
left arete on the boulder of AdréAdeline, in the big wall with a characteristic conch in the North face.
59b	La Traversée de Délinette 6b (6a)	arete / traverse frtl / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen / Ivan Maucuit
on the boulder of AdréAdeline, in the big wall with a characteristic conch in the North face. Sitstart with the right hold, low traverse and exit with the left arete in Délinette.
61	L'Être Trou 7b (7b+)	slightly overhanging / bidoigt	Alain Denis / Max
left variant of L'Être Trou, on the boulder underneath AdréAdeline, in the North face. Start in a pit with a crimp left hand and exit by a mantle above.
62	L'Être Doux 7a (7a+)	slightly overhanging / mantle / expo	Cédric Bonvin
on the boulder underneath AdréAdeline, in the North face. Low start in a pit, take a bidoigt right hand and exit by a mantle on slopers.
65	Mayday 6c (7a)	overhang / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
underneath L'Être Trou, in the North side of the area. Sitstart in the overhang and exit to the left in the wall; morpho.
66	Mort aux Dents 5+	wall	-
left problem, without the left arete on a boulder underneath L'Être Trou, in the North side of the area.
68	La Voie de gauche du Pilier 5-	wall	Patrick Sercki / Thierry Vasseur
left problem in a pillar underneath L'Être Trou, in the North side of the area.
69	Le Pilier en V 5	pillar	Patrick Sercki / Thierry Vasseur
right problem in a pillar underneath L'Être Trou, in the North side of the area.
70	Le Ratichon 5	wall / traverse frtl	Jean-Claude Valluet / Alain Denis
diagonal to the left on a boulder above Le Spirographe, in the North face.
72	Le Spirographe 7b+	wall / pillar	Alain Denis
evident wall-pillar in the North chaos. NB : the grade will be adjusted due to a broken hold.
73	Le Curviligne 6b+	wall / expo	Thierry Vasseur
just right of Le Spirographe, in the North chaos.
74	Shiver 1	slab	Loane Juncker
children slab in front of Le Spirographe, in the North chaos.
76	La Belle au Bois 7b+	traverse fltr	Thierry Guéguen
traverse on three faces in the center of the North chaos. Start at the rest of quarry and exit by a mantle after the tree.
76b	La Belle au Bois prolongée 7c+	traverse fltr	Laurent Avare / Thierry Guéguen
traverse on three faces in the center of the North chaos. Start at the rest of quarry as for La Belle au Bois but exit by a mantle after a low traverse in the third face.
77	La Vire à gauche 4-	slab / arete	-
slab at the left angle, at the beginning of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
78	Passe Droit 4+	wall / bidoigt	Pascal Etienne
wall with a bidoigt just right of La Vire à gauche, in the first face of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
79	La Lisseuse 5-	wall / arete	Patrick Sercki / Thierry Vasseur
direct wall on the right of the first face of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
80	L'Angle au Bois 4-	arete	-
arete by the left at the first angle of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
81	La Conque au Bois 4-	wall	-
wall with a conch in the second face of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
82	Le Réta au Bois 4	mantle	-
mantle to the right of the second angle of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
83	La Petite au Bois 6b (6c)	traverse fltr / crack / sitstart	-
shortened version of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the South chaos. Sitstart at the crack in the second face and exit by a mantle before the tree.
84	Prise de Bec 7a	belly / sitstart	Patrick Sercki
sitstart at the exit of La Belle au Bois prolongée and make a direct mantle.
84b	Réciproque 7b	traverse frtl / sitstart	-
sitstart with the pocket of Prise de Bec at the end of La Belle au Bois prolongée and make the back traverse of this latter.
85	Prise de Cinq 5	wall / belly	Patrick Sercki
direct problem to the right of the exit of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
86	Prise de Quatre 4	wall	-
right problem in the exit face of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
88	La Gouttière 6b	crack	Patrick Sercki
gully (without the left holds) on the right boulder to the opposite of the long face of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
89	Amuse Gueule n°3 4+	pillar	Jean-Claude Valluet
small pillar on the right boulder to the opposite of the long face of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
90	Amuse-Gueule n°2 4	wall	Jean-Claude Valluet
wall with "mushroom" holds on the left boulder to the opposite of the long face of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
91	Cadeau aux Débutants 3-	wall / slab	-
wall-slab on the left boulder to the opposite of the long face of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
92	L'Apéritif 4+	arete	Jean-Claude Valluet
angle by the left on the left boulder to the opposite of the long face of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
93	Amuse-Gueule n°1 4	wall	Jean-Claude Valluet
wall to the left of the angle on the left boulder to the opposite of the long face of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
94	Fine Bouche 5	wall / slab / crimps	-
left problem on the left boulder to the opposite of the long face of the traverse of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
95	Le Plat c'est Beau 6b+	overhang / slopers	Thierry Vasseur
on the boulder to the opposite of the exit of La Belle au Bois. Crouching start in the overhang and exit on the left via slopers.
96	La B-Arête 5+ (6a)	arete / sitstart	Patrick Sercki
left arete on the boulder to the opposite of the exit of La Belle au Bois. Sitstart and exit on the left of the arete.
96b	La B-Arête directe 6b (6c)	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Patrick Sercki
left arete on the boulder to the opposite of the exit of La Belle au Bois. Sitstart as for La B-Arête but exit on the right of the arete.
97	La Petite Canine 3-	slab	-
small slab to the opposite of the exit of La Belle au Bois, in the North chaos.
98	L'Angle Mort 5	wall	Patrick Sercki / Thierry Vasseur
right problem (with a right exit) in the slightly overhanging boulder in the North chaos.
99	Le Dévers à l'Amante 5+	wall	Patrick Sercki / Thierry Vasseur
diagonal to the left on the right of the slightly overhanging boulder in the North chaos.
100	Les Jours Heureux 6a	traverse frtl	Pascal Etienne
in the slightly overhanging boulder in the North chaos. Start right and traverse with top holds (shorter version is 5b).
101	Le Dévers Nature 5+	wall	Patrick Sercki / Thierry Vasseur
direct wall in the corridor in the slightly overhanging boulder in the North chaos; morpho.
102	Le Dévers de Chine 4+	-	Patrick Sercki / Thierry Vasseur
wall with pockets on the left of the slightly overhanging boulder in the North chaos.
103	- 5+	slab / crimps	Patrick Sercki / Thierry Vasseur
slab to the left of the slightly overhanging boulder in the North chaos.
105	Vendée Lisse 3	slab / arete	-
small slab with the arete right hand in the North chaos, to the opposite of an overhang.
107	L'Entre Deux (gauche) 5+	wall	Guillaume de Sardes / Nicola Anzoni
left problem on the boulder to the North of L'Amuse-Gueule n°1, in the North chaos.
107b	L'Entre Deux (droite) 6a	wall	Sandra Roche / Benoît Juncker
central problem on the boulder to the North of L'Amuse-Gueule n°1, in the North chaos.
108	Complexe 5	wall	Patrick Sercki
right problem on the boulder to the North of L'Amuse-Gueule n°1, in the North chaos. The pocket on the right arete is allowed (6a without).
109	- 5	wall	Patrick Sercki
in the corridor, on the boulder to the North of L'Amuse-Gueule n°1, in the North chaos.
110	Le Ventre de la Tortue 4	wall	-
in the corridor on the backside of the boulder of L'Amuse-Gueule n°1, in the North chaos.
112	Yalta 6c+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Pepito
on a boulder completely to the North of the sector. Sitstart as for Le Benoîtier, take the sidepulls on the right and exit without the left arete by convention.
113	Le Benoîtier 4-	prow / sitstart	Jean-Claude Valluet
sitstart of the prow, on a boulder completely to the North of the sector.
115	P'tite Boule 3-	belly	Patrick Sercki
right round boulder, without convention, to the opposite of La Pression Monte, in the North chaos.
115b	P'tite Boule directe 6a	belly / crimps	Patrick Sercki
direct exit with a crimp of the right round boulder to the opposite of La Pression Monte, in the North chaos.
116	Raide Boule 3	belly	Patrick Sercki
left round boulder, without convention, to the opposite of La Pression Monte, in the North chaos.
116b	Raide Boule directe 6b	belly / mantle	Patrick Sercki
left round boulder to the opposite of La Pression Monte, in the North chaos. exit by a mantle on the right without using the top of the step by convention.
118	Grosse Déprime 6b	wall	-
wall without the right arete on the backside of the boulder of La Pression Monte, completely to the North-East of the sector.
119	Petite Déprime 5+	wall / pillar	-
wall-pillar on the backside of the boulder of La Pression Monte, completely to the North-East of the sector.
120	Basse Pression 6b	slab	Patrick Sercki
smooth slab to the left of the tree on the boulder of La Pression Monte, completely to the North-East of the sector.
121	Six Vicious 6b	slab	Patrick Sercki
smooth slab to the right of the tree on the boulder of La Pression Monte, completely to the North-East of the sector.
122	La Pression Monte 7a	slab / expo	Olivier Penel
completely to the North-East of the sector. Start in the pit, climb the wall using crimps and exit with the round arete left hand.

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