Bleau.info : Areas : Buthiers Piscine : straight-ups 7a and harder

Buthiers Piscine : straight-ups 7a and harder

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Other overviews 7a and harder: 41 straight-ups + traverses, 7 traverses

Le Dernier Problème 6c+ (7a)	sitstart / wall / crimps	Vincent Pochon
on the boulder to the left of blue n°12. Sitstart on a rock with a big flake and exit in the wall with crimps. NB : it is also possible to start in the overhang on the right.
Minos 7a	overhang / underclings / expo	Pascal Terray / Christophe Laumone
to the left of Surplomb du Pique-nique (black n°30); exit to the left.
La Rampe 7a	sitstart / slopers / mantle	-
sitstart to the right of La Vire des Grands Ducs (red n°20) and exit via the ramp.
Le Dernier Problème droite 7a	sitstart / overhang / crack	-
on the boulder to the left of blue n°12. Sitstart as for Le Dernier Problème, traverse to the right in the overhang with a crimp left hand, and exit via the crack of orange n°8.
Ma Famille 7a	wall / crimps	Dave Hunter
to the opposite of orange n°36, in a corridor between two boulders next to a rock fall (boulder breakage). Start on two crimps at the left hand side of the boulder, move up and left to a pocket halfway up the wall, match both hands in the pocket and reach for the top. NB : first know realization by Dave Hunter in 2008.
La Pierre à Fusil assis 7a	arete / crimps / sitstart	-
2m to the right of L'Âge de Pierre, just in front of Misanthropie. Sitstart(without crash-pad) slightly on the right of the arete, pass on the left face, climb the wall on crimps with the arete right hand and exit by a mantle at the top of the boulder. See also: La Pierre à Fusil 6c (6c+)
La Super Fresque directe 7a	wall / crimps / high	Loïc Le Denmat / Philippe Le Denmat
direct variant of La Super Fresque (black n°27), without the good holds on the left. See also: La Super Fresque 6c
La Guerre des Grattons 7a	wall / crimps	Philippe Le Denmat
crimpsy wall at the beginning of the corridor, on the boulder of La Fissure de l'I (blue n°40). Start just left of Les Nouveaux Travailleurs, at the arrow of the traverse of n°6 rouge, climb the wall on marbled crimps and exit by a mantle at the top. NB : a spotter on the back boulder is recommanded.
Sans Plâtre ni Ciment 7a	slab / crimps / mantle	Philippe Le Denmat
direct slab between Plâtre et Ciment and red n°33. Start in the crimpsy wall and exit by a direct mantle on slopers (without coming back to the red problem). See also: Plâtre et Ciment 7c (7b+)
Attention Chef d'Œuvre 7a (7a+)	wall / crack / high	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
200m to the left of Misanthropie (beyond end black circuit), 6 meter high boulder, to the right of Partage.
Insistance 7a (7a+)	wall / slopers	Frédéric Buc / François Louvel
on the left of the boulder to the left of the one with La Duchesse (black n°19). Start with an undercling (small white arrow) and exit on slopers.
Lady Big Claque / Le Flipper 7a+ (7a)	prow / overhang / high	-
to the left of La Dynamostatique (black n°24).
Navuku 7a+	slab	Robert Mirfin
to the left of Le Sphinx (red n°1). Start just right of the small boulder and take the vertical holds right hand. See also: Navuku droite 6b
Bérénice 7a+ (7b)	prow / slopers	Neil Hart
prow exposed to the East, two boulders to the right of La Rampe. Standing start and exit directly on slopers.
Master Edge 7b (7a+)	arete / expo	François Louvel
arete facing La Duchesse (black n°19), on the boulder of La Voie Mercier (black n°20) and Misanthropie.
L'Étincelle 7b	sitstart / wall	Greg Sobczak
sitstart without the arete on the wall of La Traversée du Culot (black n°23); morpho.
- 7b	slightly overhanging	-
direct problem on the right, on the boulder of Atomic Playboy, just left of the road in the slope towards the observatory.
Magic Bus 7b+ (7b)	roof	Christophe Laumone
low roof in between Strappal and Partage on the top of the hill. (GPS: N48.294960 E2.441830) See also: Magic Bus gauche 7b+
Strappal 7b+	slightly overhanging / crimps	-
direct, to the right of Swing Medium (black n°36).
Magic Bus gauche 7b+	roof / slopers	-
to the left of Magic Bus; sitstart and exit via slopers. (GPS: N48.294960 E2.441830) See also: Magic Bus 7b+ (7b)
Dissidence 7b+	prow / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
sitstart at the orange problem to the left of L'Orléanaise (black n°10) and exit via the leftside of the prow.
Ninja 7b+	wall / crimps / expo	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
just right of Master Edge, on the boulder of La Voie Mercier (black n°20) and Misanthropie.
Furyo 7c (7b+)	wall / crimps / expo	Alain Ghersen
to the left of La Duchesse (black n°19), to the opposite of Master Edge.
Plâtre et Ciment 7c (7b+)	slab / crimps / toprope	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
to the right of Rêve de Singe (black n°37). Start 1m to the left of red n°33, traverse to the left on arranged holds and exit a big stone on the ground. See also: Sans Plâtre ni Ciment 7a
L'Âge de Pierre 7c (7b+)	wall / crimps / expo	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
to the right of La Brutus (black n°22), to the opposite of Misanthropie. Start under a step, climb the wall on marbled crimps and exit above. Update (December 2007) : broken crimp in the face; still realizable?

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