Bleau.info : Montrouget Ouest : Topo

This small area gathers a few problems, all difficult and located in the East side of the hill to the opposite of the classical sector of Montrouget.
Access : on the road from Courances to Arbonne, park the car at the aqueduct. Follow the underground part of that one by a path and climb the stairs. The boulder are underneath, on the East of the hill. It is also possible to come from the Montrouget sector, where an efficient warming-up can be realized.

6	Feu Follet 6a	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
low start (with the two feet on the back stone) to the left of the overhang of La Sans-Nom.
6b	La Traversée de la Sans-Nom 6b	overhang / sitstart	-
on the left of La Sans-Nom. Start completely left (or by a low start with the two feet on the back stone as for Feu Follet), traverse with top holds and exit by the crack of La Sans-Nom.
7	La Sans-Nom 7b+	overhang / sitstart	-
on the boulder to the left of Trop Longue pour Toi, just under the path that goes over the aqueduct, to the West of that one, 15m above Menhir. Sitstart in a pit, climb the overhang on fragile crimps and exit to the right. (GPS: N48.424260 E2.504380)
8	Trop Longue pour Toi 7a	traverse frtl / bidoigt	Sébastien Frigault
10m long traverse on a boulder 10m above Menhir, to the right of the overhang of La Sans-Nom, underneath the path that goes over the aqueduct, just to the West of that one. Start right, traverse with small pockets and exit completely left.
8'	Trop Longue pour Toi en retour-aller 7b	traverse / bidoigt	Sébastien Frigault
on a boulder 10m above Menhir, to the right of the overhang of La Sans-Nom, underneath the path that goes over the aqueduct, just to the West of that one. Start left, traverse on slopers and small pockets, come back by the usual traverse of Trop Longue pour Toi and exit on the left.
9	- 4	mantle	-
mantle on slopers in a pit on the right face of the overhang of La Sans-Nom, on the back face of the boulder of Trop Longue pour Toi.
10	Madame Duromal 7a+	wall / crimps / sitstart	-
in a pit on the right face of the overhang of La Sans-Nom, just behind the boulder of Trop Longue pour Toi. Sitstart on the right of the roof, traverse for 1m50 on a ledge and exit in the crimpsy wall above.
10	Madame Duromal debout 6b	wall / crimps	-
in a pit on the right face of the overhang of La Sans-Nom, just behind the boulder of Trop Longue pour Toi. Standing start on the right of the roof (morpho) and exit in the crimpsy wall above.
11	Menhir 8b (8b+)	sitstart / underclings / overhang	Harald Röker
on a very overhanging boulder behind the one with the traverse of Trop Longue pour Toi. Sitstart in a 45° overhang, take underclings and exit slightly to the right. NB : see the description (in German) and three photos at Harald Röker's homepage.
12	- 6c+	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Blokeur
sitatart of the prow just right of Menhir.
13	- 4-	prow	-
left problem on the backside of the boulder of Menhir.
14	- 5+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
right problem on the backside of the boulder of Menhir.
16	Placide et Muzo 7a	overhang	Thierry Vasseur
just left of Plagiat, on the boulder of Goldfinger, in the middle of the slope. Start with the pinch right hand and exit in the overhang. Mossy (October 2008).
17	Plagiat 7b	overhang	Thierry Vasseur
just right of Placide et Muzo, on the boulder of Goldfinger, in the middle of the slope. Start with the pinchwith the pinch left hand and exit in the overhang. Mossy (October 2008).
18	Goldfinger 7c+	overhang / dyno	Olivier Lebreton
in a characteristic overhand in the middle of the slope. Start to the right of Placide et Muzo and exit with a dynamic move. NB : this problem, indicated as a project on page 217 of "7+8", is perhaps no longer realizable because of a broken hold.
		Outside the topo
Le Faux Placide et Muzo 6c		slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstart	-
on the boulder of Goldfinger, near the middle of the slope. Sitstart as for Placide et Muzo, take a hold to the left of the pinch of that one, make a dynamic move and exit above.
Scène 5 4-		slab / wall	-
on the North face of a boulder near the bottom of the slope and the aqueduct.
Scène 4 4		slab / wall	-
at the right angle of a boulder in the North face, near the bottom of the slope and the aqueduct.
Scène 3 4+		slab / wall	-
third problem from the left on a boulder in the North face, near the bottom of the slope and the aqueduct.
Scène 2 4-		wall / arete	-
to the right of the tree, on a boulder in the North face, near the bottom of the slope and the aqueduct.
Scène 1 5-		wall	-
left problem on a boulder in the North face, near the bottom of the slope and the aqueduct.
La Simplicité 4-		pillar	-
on the left angle of the boulder of Goldfinger, near the middle of the slope.
Crise de Jalousie 6b+		slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstart	Pepito
sitstart and climb the slightly overhanging wall to the left side of Placide et Muzo, on the boulder of Goldfinger, near the middle of the slope.
La Théorie du Vérin 8b		slightly overhanging / dyno	Sébastien Frigault
on the boulder of the traverse of Petit Sept, underneath the Arcades (aqueduct), 150m to the East of the main sector. Start at a conch with the two hands in an undercling, dyno right hand to a sloper and exit above.
Petit Sept 6c		traverse fltr / sitstart / mantle	Pepito
traverse to the right on the boulder of La Théorie du Vérin, underneath the Arcades (aqueduct), 150m to the East of the main sector. Sitstart at the left angle, low treverse in a conch and exit on the right in the overhang with a good hold.

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