XXX 7b+ 7c Dame Jouanne

Olivier Lebreton
proue, aplats, départ assis

Proue déversante à compression située deux blocs derrière Hibernatus, une dizaine de mètres à gauche des escaliers, un peu en dessous du sommet de la pente. Partir à gauche avec l'arête et sortir comme dans Usbek.

  • Appréciation
  • 3,3 Étoiles
  • (15 au total)
  • Évaluation
  • 7b+: 38,5%
  • 7c: 61,5%
  • (13 au total)
précision - Anonymous (07-02-2008 00:59)
Photo + lieu exact à cette adresse.

Bonne grimpe
photo - Anonymous (12-02-2008 13:13)
I see the video.
I start with the arete on the left of the boulder . the start like you is a kind of "usbek": the same start and the same end!
XXX start on the left and i use the bad slopper to reach the two crimp for right hand with feet hook.

Photo are here:

Good climb

Décevant car éliminant!! - Just for the fun (16-03-2008 20:31)
précision - nnn (06-02-2008 15:58)
c'est sur le bloc d'hibernatus ou dans le dos quand on regarde hibernatus? merci.
Correct Method and Line??? - Anonymous (11-02-2008 23:11)
I think I repeated this today, but here is a video of the way I climbed it. Is this the same as Olivier? To me, it felt very hard for 7C. I also have some photos I can upload if the thing I climbed is the same! Perhaps I climbed XXX direct? :)

Method seems correct...(and video is nice) - Le freak...c'est chic !!! (12-02-2008 11:38)
...for the easiest version !!! At least that's the way I've tried it (not successfully) and felt it indeed very hard for 7b+ :-(((

As far as I understood, Olivier did a direct exit to the left from the start of the roof, then reached the right hand crimp after few moves on slopers. Tha'ts the hardest version i.e. 7c : Bouhouhouhou, sniff !

Anyway, you confirm my first feeling about difficulty of that boulder !

PS : isnt'it the same as N° 18 in 7+8 guide named "usbek" and graded 7b????
usbek - Anonymous (12-02-2008 12:24)
usbek is on the right of this boulder.
usbek or XXX or something else? - Anonymous (12-02-2008 18:00)
thank you for the replies. I also tried the same method in the photos. I started in the birds nest, then right hand to the 2 finger pocket, left hand to sloper, right hand to crimp, then left hand to next sloper, then a huge move to the crimp with your right hand. At this point you are in the same position so I think one of these problems is maybe eliminate. I could have climbed it the XXX way, but I thought it was strange to go left and then back right again. The moves are good and hard though.

Did you exit in the same place? Did I climb usbek or XXX or a combination? I think the thing I climbed was 7C. I can't find usbek on

It's all cool though. Whichever way you go. Enjoy!