Le Grand Chauve Sourit 7b+ Bois Rond

overhang, sitstart
  • Average rating
  • 2.7 Stars
  • (9 total)
  • Given grades
  • 7b+: 88.9%
  • (9 total)
caillou - Lily Wargnier (06-07-2006 10:32)
Dites donc, les gars, y'a un de vous, qui a réussi à faire ce bloc sans toucher le caillou de derrière avec le dos ?
Là, j'ai eu beau essayer moultes placements, mais je touche toujours.
understand - Lily Wargnier (08-07-2006 11:51)
Hi Bart,

Thanks for your answer. I'm the same climber as Lilou ; I just have two users.

I can't understand your explanation on one point : what about your right hand, in your description ?
I made a mistake with my right hand in the undercling on the right. But I can't understand where is your right hand if you grab this undercling with your left hand ...
I'm ok with your foot description.

Another point : you don't tell me if you touch the boulder behind you with your back. 'Cause that was my issue on that boulder.

Did you see my question about Les Envahisseurs ? Tell me if you need my question in english.

Thanks in advance Bart.

clear - Anonymous (10-07-2006 00:48)
Ok, Bart, now, it's perfectly clear for me.
Thanks for your explanation. I'm gonna try it again.

See you.
Caillou - Anonymous (06-07-2006 11:01)
My French is not well enough to describe a problem. I am sorry. I hope you understand my English. This is what I remember: From quite low I grab the undercling (inversée) on the right with my left hand on good sidepull. Then my left foot makes a heelhook on the left in the 'crack'. It's powerfull to get up from that undercling, grab an intermediate bad sidepull with the left hand and go up with the left hand again. Then I make a toehook with the left foot in the 'crack' and match the lip of the roof. The mantle is still hard.

I have tried this problem often after failing on Lucky Luke and time after time I have hit the boulder behind too. It is all about the right footplacements and some power too. The rock is not that good but the moves are great.
Bois Rond - Anonymous (09-07-2006 00:52)
I don't know if the blue circuit has been renumbered recently (I don't think so) but I think the information in 7+8 about this problem is right. Jardin Public is not right at this point because the 7b+ is around the left arête as is shown in the drawing in 7+8.

About le Grand Chauve Sourit: finally I found a way to NOT touch the boulder behind with my back by making the too- and heelhook combination as described. From the sitstart I climb up with both hands in the crack, then RIGHT hand to the undercling up high on the right (my left is on a good sidepull in the crack; my description was not very clear about that and my left foot is in a heelhook position in the crack), left hand via a bad intermediate and up to the lip of the roof.