Bleau.info : Rocher Canon : Topo

thanks to COSIROC

From Paris, take the N7 and turn in direction of Melun at Le Carrefour de la Croix du Grand Veneur. Follow the D142 for 4km and turn at La Route du Lancer (large parking lot).
The sector is also easily accessible from the SNCF station of Bois-le-Roi by following the GR1 via La Route de la Perlure and La Route du Lancer (20 minutes walk).

1Le Cadeau du Vent 7b (7a+)wall / slopersGrégoire Clouzeau
*****  [ 1 photo ] white 1 | on a boulder low on the hillside near the parking. (GPS: N48.462730 E2.664310)
242 Fillette 7awall / overhangPatrick Arias
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the left of the start of the dark blue circuit (facing Le Cadeau du Vent)
2b42 Fillette assis 7bwall / overhang / sitstartGrégoire Clouzeau
sitstart from the small rock on the left
3Magifix 6c+overhang / slopers-
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 2 photos ] white 2 |
4Rue de Siam 7btraverse frtl / crimpsMarco Dunand
*****  [ 1 photo ] 10m to the right of Les Temps Modernes (red n°29). Low start to the right on the lip, traverse with crimps and exit at the left angle using an undercling (red arrow).
5Lune de Fiel 7atraverse frtlMarco Dunand
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 19 photos ] white 3 | start completely right, low traverse after the first angle and exit in blue n°22 bleu after the second angle. 6c+ with the high holds at the first angle. (GPS: N48.462900 E2.663380)
5bLune de Fiel (gauche-droite) 7a+traverse fltr-
***** back traverse of Lune de Fiel (without the top holds); forth and back is 7b+. (GPS: N48.462900 E2.663380)
5cLune de Fiel en retour-aller 7b+traverse fltr / traverse frtl-
***** forth and back of Lune de Fiel (left to right then right to left). (GPS: N48.462900 E2.663380)
6Le Pilier du Fiel 4+pillar-
*****  [ 4 photos ] right problem in the pillar, at the fist angle of the traverse of Lune de Fiel, on the face to the right of blue n°22.
6bLe Pilier gauche du Fiel 4 (4+)pillar-
left problem in the pillar, at the fist angle of the traverse of Lune de Fiel, on the face to the right of blue n°22.
7Les Miches de la Veuve 4wall-
in the center of the face to the right of blue n°22, between the two angles of Lune de Fiel.
7bLes Grattons du Fiel 4-wall / crimps-
crimpsy wall on the face to the right of blue n°22, just left of the first angle of Lune de Fiel.
8La Fissure de la Veuve 4+ (5-)crack-
 [ 1 video ] left problem on the face to the right of blue n°22, without the undercling of Lune de Fiel by convention.
9Le Dièdre des Sacs 4- (4)dihedral-
 [ 1 photo ] just left of blue n°23.
9bLe Dièdre sans le Dièdre 5 (5+)slightly overhanging / bellyDenis Pannetier
climb the belly just left of blue n°23 without using the face of that one. 6a without the good hold on the left at the exit.
10Rondopo 4 (4+)wall / sitstart-
 [ 3 photos ] sitstart at the end of the traverse of La Longue Marche (red n°35).
11Double Fente 3+arete-
angle at the middle of the traverse of La Longue Marche (red n°35).
12L'Angle de l'Astragale 6aarete / slopers / dyno-
angle 1m50 to the left of L'Astragale (red n°33). Start with the arete left hand and exit by a dyno on slopers.
13Satyen 4pillar-
pillar at the beginning of the traverse of La Longue Marche (red n°35).
14Les Câlins de Kim 7aslightly overhanging / mantlePepito
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 9 photos ] white 5 | to the left of red n°38. NB : the start from the right via a traverse is called Cocaline (7b+).
14bCocaline 7b+traverse fltrGrégoire Clouzeau
*****  [ 1 video ] white 5 bis | traverse fltr and exit in Les Câlins de Kim (white n°5). Exit to the left by the slab of red n°39 is 7c (Benoît Faure).
15Idées Reçues 6b+traverse fltrGrégoire Clouzeau / Jean-Claude Valluet
 [ 3 photos ] on the backside of the boulder facing red n°37.
16Morphotype 6c+prow / sitstart-
*****  [ 1 photo ] white 6 | to the North of the area, two boulders to the right of red n°37.
17Bastogne 7a+ (7a)slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstartAlain Dupas
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the big boulder 5m to the right of red n+37. Sitstart in a pit and exit on slopers.
18Coup de Rein 6awall / underclings-
eliminate without the arete just right of red n°37.
19Canonnerie 6ctraverse frtl / wall-
*****  [ 2 photos ] white 7 | start to the right of red n°37, traverse to the left, pass the round angle and exit in the second face.
20Passage Canonique 6c+slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart-
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 5 photos ] on the boulder to the opposite of red n°37. Sitstart, climb the slightly overhanging wall and exit to the right on slopers in La Clé de Ut (former red n°25).
21Pot de Terre 6c+ (7a)dyno / slopers-
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 1 photo ] white 8 | on the boulder with Crescendo (boulder to the left of red n°38).
21bPot de Terre assis 7a+dyno / slopers / sitstart-
***** sitstart of Pot de Terre (white n°8).
22La Goulotte 6acrack-
to the right of Pot de Fer (red n°40).
23Beaux Mouvements sur Fond Sableux 6c+ (6c)sitstartGrégoire Clouzeau
***** white 9 | sitstart at the exit of Crescendo.
24Crescendo 7ctraverse frtlBenoît Faure
*****  [ 8 photos ] start completely right (under vegetation; October 2006) and exit in white n°9. Low variant is 8a+ and the normal version lengthened to exit in red n°40 is 8a. (GPS: N48.463150 E2.663080)
24bCrescendo Fortissimo 8atraverse frtl / slopersBenoît Faure
***** lengthening of Crescendo, with exit in red n°40. (GPS: N48.463150 E2.663080)
24cCrescendo par le bas 8a+traverse frtlBenoît Faure
start completely right (under vegetation; October 2006), low traverse and exit in white n°9. (GPS: N48.463150 E2.663080)
25Sixième Piste 6b+slightly overhanging / sitstart-
sitstart at the start of Crescendo, on the backside of the boulder with Le Pot de Fer (red n°40).
26Un Verset Satanique 7btraverse fltrGrégoire Clouzeau
traverse on two faces; start in the left slab, exit in red n°41.
27aLévitation 7a+ (7a)traverse fltr / overhang / sitstartB. Forest
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 7 photos ] white 10 | sitstart entirely low left (7a without the traverse).
27bRocking-Chair 7aroof / underclingsPepito
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 2 photos ] start as Lévitation, but exit to the left of the crack with an undercling; opened in approx. 1985-87.
27cVagabond des Limbes 7btraverseGilles Cottray
***** climb Lévitation (white n°10), and traverse back high to the left.
27c'Vagabond des Limbes rallongé 7ctraverse-
climb Lévitation (white n°10), traverse back high to the left as for Vagabond des Limbes but continue and exit in blue n°34.
27c''Légende 8atraverseJacky Godoffe
***** prolongation of Vagabond des Limbes, left low over the pillar back to the start.
27dWhen Legend Dies 8b+traverse / traverse fltr / traverse frtlFrancis Hélias
***** a large figure eight in Légende; it starts two meters to the left of the G marked on the boulder, then goes over to Lévitation, continues in Si c'est un Homme, then takes the U-turn of Vagabond des Limbes, does Si c'est un Homme once again, to finish at the top left of the start
27eLe Voyage Éternel 8coverhang / traverseRobert Girard
start in Lévitation, climb Si c'est un Homme, traverse to the right, downclimb Lévitation, traverse again towards Si c'est un Homme and exit in Légende (which brings back to the starting point).
27fSi c'est un Homme 8aoverhang / sitstartSébastien Frigault
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 20 photos ] on the boulder with Lévitation. Direct roof and exit in red n°44, without using the pillar for your foot (otherwise 7b+).
28Lévitation prolongée 7b+traverse fltrGrégoire Clouzeau
prolongation of Lévitation; exit via the right arete.
29The Roof 6c+overhang / slopers / sitstart-
sitstart of the overhanging angle in the middle of the traverse of Sledgehammer, to the right of red n°45.
30Sledgehammer 7atraverse frtl-
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] white 11 | on the boulder to the right of the roof with Lévitation. Start on the right face, traverse to the left, pass an angle and exit in red n°45.
31Maelwenn 6atraverse fltrJean-Claude Valluet
 [ 4 photos ] lichened traverse on the boulder to the right of Sledgehammer.
32Friponneries Sociales 7ctraverse frtl / slopersJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 1 photo ] on a small boulder just before Jour de Pluie, in between light blue n°26 and light blue n°27.
32bCircus Baobab 8atraverse / slopersJean-Pierre Bouvier
on a small boulder just before Jour de Pluie, in between light blue n°26 and light blue n°27. Traverse to the left as for Friponneries Sociales but climb down to the start of Babaobab and exit in that one.
33Babaobab 7bsitstart / slopersJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 2 photos ] sitstart at the end of Friponerie Sociale, on a small boulder just before Jour de Pluie, in between light blue n°26 and light blue n°27.
34Jour de Pluie 7boverhang / traverse fltr / sitstartGilles Cottray
*****  [ 1 photo ] white 12 | on the boulder of light blue n°27, to the left of the path leading to Lévitation. Sitstart to the left and exit on slopers.
35Poussinours 7c (7b+)sitstartJulien Nadiras
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart of blue n°8, to the left of L'Œil de Çiva.
36L'Œil de Çiva 7c+ (7c)overhang / sitstartPierre Gonzales
*****  [ 1 photo ] eliminate to the right of blue n°8 : stay on the right.
37Tatoomi 6bslightly overhangingBruno Lazzerini
 [ 2 photos ] left problem on the boulder with the inscription "Jésus t'aime".
38Rédemption 7a (7a+)roof / arete / slopersPatrick Arias
***** on the backside of the boulder of n°8 bleu and L'Œil de Çiva, in an overhang with the graffiti "Jésus t'aime". Climb the overhanging arete and exit slightly to the right of the roof on slopers.
38bTransat 8aarete / roof / sitstartEmmanuel Gand / Michel Pesrin
*****  [ 11 photos ] on the backside of the boulder of n°8 bleu and L'Œil de Çiva, in an overhang with the graffiti "Jésus t'aime". Sitstart on the small boulder with a heel hook, climb the arete and exit in the roof on slopers. NB : the grade has to be confirmed.
38cMitoo 6a+slightly overhangingBruno Lazzerini
 [ 1 photo ] right problem on the boulder with the inscription "Jésus t'aime".
39- 2+--
***** former orange n°8, on the left face of orange n°7.
40Manus Dei 8a (8a+)traverse fltrChristophe Laumone
*****  [ 4 photos ] on the boulder to the right of red n°25. Sitstart at the crack, traverse to the right and exit to the right of light blue n°22 (low variant is 8a+). (GPS: N48.462370 E2.663660)
40bMinus Dei 6c+traverse fltr-
shortened version of Manus Dei, on the boulder of red n°25. Sitstart at the crack, traverse to the right for 7m and exit in the wall. (GPS: N48.462370 E2.663660)
40cMini Dei 6atraverse fltr / sitstart-
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] sitstart at the crack, traverse to the right for 4m and exit in orange n°11. (GPS: N48.462370 E2.663660)
41Les Trois Lancers du Bengale 6b (6c)overhang / sitstart-
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart in Le Surplomb du Bengale (light blue n°25) and exit without the jugs.
42Trois en Un 7a+overhang / traversePepito
***** climb red n°25, go down in light blue n°25, traverse to the right and exit in blue n°14.
43Les Limaces 2+traverse-
*****  [ 1 photo ] former orange n°12, on the backside of the boulder of the actual orange n°12.
44aLe Défilé de l'Embuscade 5traverse fltr-
start in L'Embusquée, traverse to the right and exit in orange n°10.
44bL'Embusquée 4+prow-
 [ 1 video ] left problem (and former blue triangle) on the face to the left of orange n°10.
44cL'Embuscade 4-wall-
right problem on the face to the left of orange n°10.
45La Blanche 6cslab-
 [ 1 photo ] to the left of blue n°10, above a flat rock.
46Lève la Patte 7adyno / slopers / mantleMarc Lehner
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] dynamic start on the boulder just right of Exposition Rétrospective, without the base boulder.
47Exposition Rétrospective 6c+ (6c)wall-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] white 13 |
47aExposition Rétrospective assis 7b+overhang / sitstart / slopersJulien Nadiras
*****  [ 4 photos ] sitstart of Exposition Rétrospective (white n°13).
48Il 7b (7b+)overhang / sitstartDidier Gérardin
*****  [ 7 photos ] sitstart under the roof and exit in red n°21.
48aSauvez Alain Robert 7c+ (8a)sitstart / underclings / dynoTony Fouchereau
 [ 1 photo ] to the left of Il; sitstart to the right of red n°20, subsequently direct from the underclings to the "blade".
49La Valse aux Trois Thons 7b+traverse frtl / sitstartJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart to the right in the roof of Il and exit in Le Cheval d'Arçon (light blue n°17).
49aPassage Piétons 7c (7c+)traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / areteGrégoire Clouzeau
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart in Exposition Rétrospective (white n°13) and exit via the arete of Le Cheval d'Arçon (blue n°17). NB : it is also possible to start in red n°23 (rallongation by Grégoire Clouzeau).
50Les Copains d'Abord 7aprow / sitstartGrégoire Clouzeau / Didier Gérardin
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] white 14 | left of orange n°17. Opened by Grégoire Clouzeau (direct version by Didier Gérardin, 7a/7a+).
51La Plaisanterie 6btraverse fltr-
traverse on two faces on the boulder to the opposite of Le Bossu (red n°16).
52Délivrance 7a+wall / slabPhilippe Le Denmat
***** white 17 | on the boulder of Le Cervin (light blue n°40). (GPS: N48.461530 E2.663250)
52bMarquis de Sade 7bwall / slabJo Montchaussé
***** just left of Délivrance without the big chipped hold. (GPS: N48.461530 E2.663250)
53La Dénoyautée 7a+wall / crimpsDidier Gérardin
*****  [ 11 photos ] white 18 | to the right of the path in direction of the start of the red circuit.
54- 4--
former orange n°28 bis, to the right of the actual orange n°28.
55Toutancanon 7btraverse fltr / expoPhilippe Le Denmat
 [ 1 photo ] black 19 bis | 30m to the right and underneath the roof of La Baleine. Start to the left, traverse above a small boulder and exit in Mort en Mai (black n°19).
56Lobotomie 7a (7b)traverse fltr-
*****  [ 2 photos ] black 22 bis | on the boulder to the right of the roof of La Baleine. Two possible starting points; lichenous (April 2009).
57Orca droite 7aroof / sitstartChristophe Laumone
***** on the boulder to the right of the roof of La Baleine, above red n°10; sitstart.
57bOrca 7c+roof / slopersJulien Nadiras
***** in the roof of La Baleine, above red n°10.
58Baboon Master 8a+roof / sitstartJulien Nadiras
 [ 1 photo ] in the roof of La Baleine, above red n°10; sitstart to the right of La Baleine.
58bBaboon Master rallongé 8broof / sitstartSébastien Frigault
in the roof of La Baleine, above red n°10; sitstart in La Baleine.
58cLa Baleine 7c+roof / sitstartChristophe Laumone
*****  [ 6 photos ] in the big roof with a graffiti above red n°10. Low sitstart in the roof just right of black n°21 and exit directly. (GPS: N48.461300 E2.662700)
59Gros Câlin 7atraverse fltr / bidoigt / underclingsGilles Cottray
***** from red n°5 to red n°4; exit in that one.
60La Mare droite 7boverhangJacky Godoffe
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 11 photos ] right problem in the overhang on the right of the boulder of 36.15 Power.
60bLa Mare directe 7c (7b+)overhangJacky Godoffe
***** to the right of the boulder of 36.15 Power.36.15 Power.
61Fosse Septique 6a+slightly overhangingPepito
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 7 photos ] red arrow to the left of La Mare droite, on the boulder with white n°19 and white n°20.
62Nut's 7bslightly overhanging / crackOlivier Penel
*****  [ 7 photos ] white 19 | to the right of 36.15 Power.
6336.15 gauche 7a (7a+)overhang / dyno-
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 3 photos ] white 20 | dyno to the left from the undercling. (GPS: N48.461430 E2.663650)
63b36.15 Power 7c (7c+)overhangOlivier Penel
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 8 photos ] white 20 bis | 7c+ with the sloper and without using the undercling. (GPS: N48.461430 E2.663650)
64Le Mur de la Honte 7a+ (7a)slab / crimpsOlivier Penel
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 6 photos ] on the backside of the boulder to the right of L'Attrape-Mouches (light blue n°6). The direct version is slighltly harder than the left version (which uses a chipped hold).
65Pareur de Femmes 7aareteDidier Gérardin
*****  [ 3 photos ] 10 m directly underneath Le Chaînon Manquant, on the opposite face of light blue n°4. Start in the corridor, with the right arete of the boulder and a left shoulder hold.
66Le Pied Levé assis 7aoverhang / sitstartFlavien Lucas
***** sitstart of light blue n°3. The left version is slightly easier than the right one.
67Scarlatine assis 7b+overhang / sitstartJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart of red n°2.
67bVilaine Biquette 8a (7c)traverse fltr / sitstartFrançois Masbernat / Robert Girard
 [ 7 photos ] sitstart in Le Pied Levé (light blue n°3), traverse in the roof of the tunnel and exit in Scarlatine (red n°2).
68Le Chaînon Manquant (avec l'arête) 7bslightly overhanging / areteDidier Gérardin
***** variant of Chaînon Manquant with the right arete. (GPS: N48.461230 E2.663600)
68bLe Chaînon Manquant 7c (7c+)slightly overhangingDidier Gérardin
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 6 photos ] To the right of the start of the red circuit. Without the right arete (7b otherwise). (GPS: N48.461230 E2.663600)
69Saccageur de Rêves 7c+traverse frtlJean-Pierre Bouvier
***** traverse to the left and exit in red n°1.
70Fantasia chez les Ploucs 7a+overhang / slopersStéphan Denys
*****  [ 1 photo ] white 21 | right problem on the backside of the boulder with light blue n°1.
71Les P'tites Poignées d'Amour 6c+overhang / dynoStéphan Denys
*****  [ 1 photo ] left problem on the backside of the boulder with light blue n°1.
72La Valse aux Adieux 8btraverse fltrJean-Pierre Bouvier
 [ 2 photos ] on the backside of light blue n°1, above white n°3. Start with a pinch left hand and a crimp right hand, traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face. 8c by starting with the two hands on the left arete.
72bLa Valse aux Adieux prolongée 8ctraverse fltrJean-Pierre Bouvier
on the backside of light blue n°1, above white n°3. Start with with the two hands on the left arete, traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face as for La Valse aux Adieux.
73La Maschine 7coverhangAntoine Eydoux
*****  [ 3 photos ] on the boulder to the right of Les Grimpeurs se Cachent pour Médire. Start with an undercling left hand in the roof and a crimp right hand on the ledge as for La Maschette, but exit slightly to the right.
73bLa Maschette 8aoverhangAntoine Eydoux / Pierro Desbois
*****  [ 1 video ] on the boulder to the right of Les Grimpeurs se Cachent pour Médire. Start with an undercling left hand in the roof and a crimp right hand on the ledge as for La Maschine, but exit to the left.
74Les Grimpeurs se Cachent pour Médire 7a (6c+)pillar / highGrégoire Clouzeau
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 7 photos ] white 22 | on a boulder to the right of Full Metal Jacket (to the right and underneath the bivouac).
75Full Metal Jacket 7b+overhangJulien Nadiras
*****  [ 10 photos ] white boulder, hooked up by two boulders above light blue n°1; morpho. (GPS: N48.461000 E2.663720)
75bFull Metal Jacket assis 7coverhangJulien Nadiras
***** low start with an undercling. (GPS: N48.461000 E2.663720)
76Compressman 7aprow / slopers / sitstartCédric Chambellan
*****  [ 4 photos ] sitstart at the prow on the small boulder to the left of Full Metal Jacket, above light blue n°1.
77L'Artif du Ciel 7acrack / toprope-
 [ 1 photo ] two boulders to the left of Full Metal Jacket, just under the top of the slope.
78La Spontex 6bslightly overhanging / mantleJean-Pierre Naudin
 [ 1 photo ] former start of the red circuit, on the boulder underneath and to the left of La Théorie du Chaos (white n°23).
79La Théorie du Chaos 7barete / overhangOlivier Penel
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] white 23 | on the ridge, on the backside of the boulder to the left and beyond the bivouac (start of the red circuit). Sitstart is 7b+ (Grégoire Clouzeau). (GPS: N48.460810 E2.664030)
79bLa Théorie du Chaos assis 7b+sitstart / arete / overhangGrégoire Clouzeau
***** on the ridge, on the backside of the boulder to the left and beyond the bivouac (start of the red circuit). Sitstart of La Théorie du Chaos. (GPS: N48.460810 E2.664030)
80La Yoyo 6acrackJean-Pierre Naudin
 [ 1 photo ] former red n°2, on the face to the right of La Théorie du Chaos (white n°23), to the left of Le Pain Noir (n°30 of the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires").
81Le Pain Noir 6b (6a)wallPepito
 [ 1 photo ] black 30 | on the face to the right of La Théorie du Chaos (white n°23). Direct wall to the right of La Yoyo (former red n°2).
82Le Bonsaï 7a+ (7b)arete / sitstartTony Fouchereau
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart in the round arete right of Chasseur de Prises; exit without the tree!
82bLa Maîtrise du Genre Littéraire 7c (8a)arete / slopers / sitstartFrançois Masbernat / Robert Girard
 [ 3 photos ] sitstart 3m to the right of Chasseur de Prises (same start point as for Le Bonsaï), climb the round arete and exit via the last hold of Chasseur de Prises.
82cYo Seré Général 8a+arete / slopers / traverse frtlFrançois Masbernat
sitstart 3m to the right of Chasseur de Prises as for La Maîtrise du Genre Littéraire, traverse to the left and exit in L'Envers du Décor.
83Chasseur de Prises 7aslopersPhilippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 2 videos ]  [ 3 realvideos ]  [ 18 photos ] white 24 |
83bChasseur de Prises assis 7c (7b+)sitstart / slopersOlivier Lebreton
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] sitstart of Chasseur de Prises.
84L'Envers du Décor 7a+wallEric Létot
*****  [ 3 photos ] between Caterpillar and Chasseur de Prises.
84bCaterpillar 7awall / expoEmmanuel Ratouis
***** to the left of Chasseur de Prises (white n°24). Sitstart is 7b+.
84cCaterpillar assis 7b+wall / sitstartOlivier Lebreton
***** sitstart of Caterpillar, to the left of Chasseur de Prises.

 

Outside the topo

Miracle 7btraverse frtlJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 4 photos ] 11m traverse on three faces, on an isolated boulder located in plot 862, 500m from the parking lot, along the blue path. Start at the left of the downclimbing face, pass a first angle, traverse in a short face, climb the after the second angle, downclimb to a sandy ledge and exit after the third angle, or just before in the overhang (original exit now requiring a dyno, since holds broke off). Access : from the parking lot, follow the big path of La Route de la Table du Roi, turn right at La Route du Laisser Courre and then left at the blue path. The problem can be found on the biggest boulder 150m further, on the left of the path. (GPS: N48.459300 E2.666537)
L'Angle de l'Astragale (voie de gauche) 4arete / crack-
angle right hand with a small crack 1m50 to the left of L'Astragale (red n°33).
Le Sphinx 5+slab / wall / slopers-
 [ 4 photos ] just left of light blue n°8 (and former position of this number in the circui).
Pierre Tombal 5-slab-
at the end of Ténèbres de l'Ouganda (black n°18), on the North face of the boulder of Toutancanon, see the topo of the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires".
Tam-Tam d'Afrique Noire 5+overhang-
traverse to the right starting underneath the overhang, on a boulder 30m to the right and underneath the roof of La Baleine (see the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires").
Nabot Minable 4+mantle-
former red problem, at the beginning of black n°22, on the boulder behind La Baleine, see the topo of the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires".
Charleston 6cslightly overhanging / aretePepito / Yann Bruneau
*****  [ 1 photo ] black triangle to the left of La Cave de l'Oncle Tom, in the overhang of the bivouac (see n°26 of the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires").
Le Prince Noir 4wall-
wall at the beginning of Noir Zazate, see the topo of the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires".
Le Singe qui a Traversé la Mer 7ctraverse frtlJean-Pierre Bouvier
 [ 2 photos ] do the back traverse of black n°10, continue low on the left and exit in black n°11 (see the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires").
Soleil Noir 6adynoPepito / Jean-Yves Rosz
dyno to the right of the exit of Nébuleuse (see n°1 of the Phantom Circuit Fantôme ED- "Idées Noires").
- 5wall-
 [ 1 photo ] black triangle to the left of the former start of the yellow circuit, near the boulder of black n°6, see the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires".
La Clé de Ut 5+wall / slopers-
*****  [ 1 photo ] former red n°25, on the boulder to the opposite of red n°37. Start right at an old arrow and exit on slopers.
Retrouvaille 7a (6c)mantle / slopersYann Kispredilov / Grégory Garabedian
*****  [ 5 photos ] to the left of Passage Canonique, on the boulder to the opposite of red n°37. Start at a round angle, dyno to slopers and exit by a mantle above a small boulder. NB : an easier mantle 1m50 on the left is also possible.
- 5-prowGrégory Garabedian
 [ 1 photo ] small loose prow at the tree to the right of red n°37.
Retrouvaille Canonique 6c (7a)traverse fltr / slopers / sitstartGrégoire Clouzeau
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the boulder to the opposite of red n°37. Sitstart as for Passage Canonique, traverse to the right and exit on slopers slightly before Retrouvaille.
Le Col Dégrafé 5 (5+)wallOlivier Cazeaux
to the right of blue n°30.
L'Angle du 30 4areteOlivier Cazeaux
direct angle to the left of blue n°30.
La Boule à Pierre 7c+ (7c)traverse frtl / slopersPierre Gonzales
short traverse on the boulder just after Le Cadeau du Vent (start of the white circuit), traverse to the left and exit in a bowl.
Hanuman 8bslightly overhanging / slopersAntoine Eydoux
***** on the left face of Compressman, on the small boulder to the left of Full Metal Jacket, above light blue n°1.
An 8a+ 4+wall / mantle / sitstartChristopher Searle
2m to the left of n°8 jaune. Sitstart with an obvious side-pull, slap to the slopers and mantle out.
La Traversée du Groin 6atraverse frtlOlivier Cazeaux
start to the right of blue n°24, low traverse and exit 1m to the right of red n°30.
Le Matou Narquois 5+wallOlivier Cazeaux
in the narrow corridor 2m to the right of the crack of blue n°27.
Le Bombé Fendu 5- (5)bellyOlivier Cazeaux
belly on the backside of yellow n°4 and to the right of yellow n°6.
La Dülfer du Bombé 5 (5+)crack / sitstartOlivier Cazeaux
on the backside of yellow n°4 and to the right of yellow n°6. Sitstart, climb the crack and exit in Le Bombé Fendu.

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