Bleau.info : Rocher Canon : Topo

thanks to COSIROC

From Paris, take the N7 and turn in direction of Melun at Le Carrefour de la Croix du Grand Veneur. Follow the D142 for 4km and turn at La Route du Lancer (large parking lot).
The sector is also easily accessible from the SNCF station of Bois-le-Roi by following the GR1 via La Route de la Perlure and La Route du Lancer (20 minutes walk).

1	Le Cadeau du Vent 7b (7a+)	wall / slopers	Grégoire Clouzeau
white 1 | on a boulder low on the hillside near the parking. (GPS: N48.462730 E2.664310)
2	42 Fillette 7a	wall / overhang	Patrick Arias
to the left of the start of the dark blue circuit (facing Le Cadeau du Vent).
2b	42 Fillette assis 7b	wall / overhang / sitstart	Grégoire Clouzeau
sitstart from the small rock on the left
3	Magifix 6c+	overhang / slopers	Eric Létot
white 2 | au bas de la pente, au dessus du sentier bleu. NB : première réalisation connue par Eric Létot en 1991 (qui avait suggéré le nom "La Rallonge" pour cette voie).
4	Rue de Siam 7b	traverse frtl / crimps	Marco Dunand
10m to the right of Les Temps Modernes (red n°29). Low start to the right on the lip, traverse with crimps and exit at the left angle using an undercling (red arrow).
5	Lune de Fiel 7a	traverse frtl	Marco Dunand
white 3 | start completely right, low traverse after the first angle and exit in blue n°22 bleu after the second angle. 6c+ with the high holds at the first angle. (GPS: N48.462900 E2.663380)
5b	Lune de Fiel (gauche-droite) 7a+	traverse fltr	-
back traverse of Lune de Fiel (without the top holds); forth and back is 7b+. (GPS: N48.462900 E2.663380)
5c	Lune de Fiel en retour-aller 7b	traverse fltr / traverse frtl	-
forth and back of Lune de Fiel (left to right then right to left). (GPS: N48.462900 E2.663380)
6	Le Pilier du Fiel 4+	pillar	-
right problem in the pillar, at the fist angle of the traverse of Lune de Fiel, on the face to the right of blue n°22.
6b	Le Pilier gauche du Fiel 4 (4+)	pillar	-
left problem in the pillar, at the fist angle of the traverse of Lune de Fiel, on the face to the right of blue n°22.
7	Les Miches de la Veuve 4	wall	-
in the center of the face to the right of blue n°22, between the two angles of Lune de Fiel.
7b	Les Grattons du Fiel 4-	wall / crimps	-
crimpsy wall on the face to the right of blue n°22, just left of the first angle of Lune de Fiel.
8	La Fissure de la Veuve 4+ (5-)	crack	-
left problem on the face to the right of blue n°22, without the undercling of Lune de Fiel by convention.
9	Le Dièdre des Sacs 4- (4)	dihedral	-
just left of blue n°23.
9b	Le Dièdre sans le Dièdre 5 (5+)	slightly overhanging / belly	Denis Pannetier
climb the belly just left of blue n°23 without using the face of that one. 6a without the good hold on the left at the exit.
10	Rondopo 4 (4+)	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart at the end of the traverse of La Longue Marche (red n°35).
11	Double Fente 3+	arete	-
angle at the middle of the traverse of La Longue Marche (red n°35).
12	L'Angle de l'Astragale 6a	arete / slopers / dyno	-
angle 1m50 to the left of L'Astragale (red n°33). Start with the arete left hand and exit by a dyno on slopers.
13	Satyen 4	pillar	-
pillar at the beginning of the traverse of La Longue Marche (red n°35).
14	Les Câlins de Kim 7a	slightly overhanging / mantle	Pepito
white 5 | to the left of red n°38. NB : the start from the right via a traverse is called Cocaline (7b+).
14b	Cocaline 7b+	traverse fltr	Grégoire Clouzeau
white 5 bis | traverse fltr and exit in Les Câlins de Kim (white n°5). Exit to the left by the slab of red n°39 is 7c (Benoît Faure).
15	Idées Reçues 6b+	traverse fltr	Grégoire Clouzeau / Jean-Claude Valluet
on the backside of the boulder facing red n°37.
16	Morphotype 6c+	prow / sitstart	-
white 6 | to the North of the area, two boulders to the right of red n°37.
17	Bastogne 7a+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Alain Dupas
on the big boulder 5m to the right of red n+37. Sitstart in a pit and exit on slopers.
18	Coup de Rein 6a	wall / underclings	-
eliminate without the arete just right of red n°37.
19	Canonnerie 6c	traverse frtl / wall	-
white 7 | start to the right of red n°37, traverse to the left, pass the round angle and exit in the second face.
20	Passage Canonique 6b+ (6c)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	-
on the boulder to the opposite of red n°37. Sitstart, climb the slightly overhanging wall and exit to the right on slopers in La Clé de Ut (former red n°25).
21	Pot de Terre 6c+ (7a)	dyno / slopers	Eric Létot
white 8 | on the boulder with Crescendo (boulder to the left of red n°38).
21b	Pot de Terre assis 7a+	dyno / slopers / sitstart	-
sitstart of Pot de Terre (white n°8).
22	La Goulotte 6a	crack	-
to the right of Pot de Fer (red n°40).
23	Beaux Mouvements sur Fond Sableux 6c+ (6c)	sitstart	Grégoire Clouzeau
white 9 | sitstart at the exit of Crescendo.
24	Crescendo 7c	traverse frtl	Benoît Faure
start completely right (under vegetation; October 2006) and exit in white n°9. Low variant is 8a+ and the normal version lengthened to exit in red n°40 is 8a. (GPS: N48.463150 E2.663080)
24b	Crescendo Fortissimo 8a	traverse frtl / slopers	Benoît Faure
lengthening of Crescendo, with exit in red n°40. (GPS: N48.463150 E2.663080)
24c	Crescendo par le bas 8a+	traverse frtl	Benoît Faure
start completely right (under vegetation; October 2006), low traverse and exit in white n°9. (GPS: N48.463150 E2.663080)
25	Sixième Piste 6b+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart at the start of Crescendo, on the backside of the boulder with Le Pot de Fer (red n°40).
26	Un Verset Satanique 7b	traverse fltr	Grégoire Clouzeau
traverse on two faces. Start to the left of the slab of yellow n°13, pass the angle and the crack of blue n°32 and exit in red n°41.
27a	Lévitation 7a+ (7a)	traverse fltr / overhang / sitstart	B. Forest
white 10 | sitstart entirely low left (7a without the traverse).
27b	Rocking-Chair 7a	roof / underclings	Pepito
start as Lévitation, but exit to the left of the crack with an undercling; opened in approx. 1985-87.
27c	Vagabond des Limbes 7b	traverse	Gilles Cottray
climb Lévitation (white n°10), and traverse back high to the left.
27c'	Vagabond des Limbes rallongé 7c	traverse	-
climb Lévitation (white n°10), traverse back high to the left as for Vagabond des Limbes but continue and exit in blue n°34.
27c''	Légende 8a	traverse	Jacky Godoffe
prolongation of Vagabond des Limbes, left low over the pillar back to the start.
27d	When Legend Dies 8b+	traverse / traverse fltr / traverse frtl	Francis Hélias
a large figure eight in Légende; it starts two meters to the left of the G marked on the boulder, then goes over to Lévitation, continues in Si c'est un Homme, then takes the U-turn of Vagabond des Limbes, does Si c'est un Homme once again, to finish at the top left of the start
27e	Le Voyage Éternel 8c	overhang / loop	Robert Girard
start in Lévitation, climb Si c'est un Homme, traverse to the right, downclimb Lévitation, traverse again towards Si c'est un Homme and exit in Légende (which brings back to the starting point).
27f	Si c'est un Homme 8a	overhang / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault
on the boulder with Lévitation. Direct roof and exit in red n°44, without using the pillar for your foot (otherwise 7b+).
28	Lévitation prolongée 7b+	traverse fltr	Grégoire Clouzeau
prolongation of Lévitation; exit via the right arete.
29	The Roof 6c+	overhang / slopers / sitstart	-
sitstart of the overhanging angle in the middle of the traverse of Sledgehammer, to the right of red n°45.
30	Sledgehammer 7a	traverse frtl	-
white 11 | on the boulder to the right of the roof with Lévitation. Start on the right face, traverse to the left, pass an angle and exit in red n°45.
31	Maelwenn 6a	traverse fltr	Jean-Claude Valluet
lichened traverse on the boulder to the right of Sledgehammer.
32	Friponneries Sociales 7c	traverse frtl / slopers	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
on a small boulder just before Jour de Pluie, in between light blue n°26 and light blue n°27.
32b	Circus Baobab 8a	traverse / slopers	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
on a small boulder just before Jour de Pluie, in between light blue n°26 and light blue n°27. Traverse to the left as for Friponneries Sociales but climb down to the start of Babaobab and exit in that one.
33	Babaobab 7b	sitstart / slopers	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
sitstart at the end of Friponerie Sociale, on a small boulder just before Jour de Pluie, in between light blue n°26 and light blue n°27.
34	Jour de Pluie 7b	overhang / traverse fltr / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
white 12 | on the boulder of light blue n°27, to the left of the path leading to Lévitation. Sitstart to the left and exit on slopers.
35	Poussinours 7b	sitstart	Julien Nadiras
to the left of L'Œil de Çiva. Sitstart to the right in the overhang and exit in L'Hymne à la Mort (former blue n°8 now marked by an orange triangle).
36	L'Œil de Çiva 7c+ (7c)	overhang / sitstart	Pierre Gonzales
eliminate to the right of former blue n°8 (marked by an orange triangle). Sitstart and stay on the right of the overhang.
37	Tatoomi 6b	slightly overhanging	Bruno Lazzerini
left problem on the boulder with the inscription "Jésus t'aime".
38	Rédemption 7a (7a+)	roof / arete / slopers	Patrick Arias
on the backside of the boulder of L'Œil de Çiva, in an overhang with the graffiti "Jésus t'aime". Climb the overhanging arete and exit slightly to the right of the roof on slopers.
38b	Transat 7b	arete / roof / sitstart	Emmanuel Gand / Michel Pesrin
on the backside of the boulder of L'Œil de Çiva, in an overhang with the graffiti "Jésus t'aime". Sitstart on the small boulder with a heel hook, climb the arete and exit in the roof on slopers. NB : the grade has to be confirmed.
38c	Mitoo 6a+	slightly overhanging	Bruno Lazzerini
right problem on the boulder with the inscription "Jésus t'aime".
39	- 2+	-	-
former orange n°8, on the left face of orange n°7.
40	Manus Dei 7c	traverse fltr	Christophe Laumone
on the boulder to the right of red n°25. Sitstart at the crack, traverse to the right and exit to the right of light blue n°22 (low variant is 8a+). (GPS: N48.462370 E2.663660)
40b	Minus Dei 6c+	traverse fltr	-
shortened version of Manus Dei, on the boulder of red n°25. Sitstart at the crack, traverse to the right for 7m and exit in the wall. (GPS: N48.462370 E2.663660)
40c	Mini Dei 6a	traverse fltr / sitstart	-
sitstart at the crack, traverse to the right for 2m and exit in orange n°11. (GPS: N48.462370 E2.663660)
41	Les Trois Lancers du Bengale 6b (6c)	overhang / sitstart	-
sitstart in Le Surplomb du Bengale (light blue n°25) and exit without the jugs.
42	Trois en Un 7a+	overhang / traverse	Pepito
climb red n°25, go down in light blue n°25, traverse to the right and exit in blue n°14.
43	Les Limaces 2+	traverse	-
former orange n°12, on the backside of the boulder of the actual orange n°12.
44a	Le Défilé de l'Embuscade 5	traverse fltr	-
start in L'Embusquée, traverse to the right and exit in orange n°10.
44b	L'Embusquée 4+	prow	-
left problem (and former blue triangle) on the face to the left of orange n°10.
44c	L'Embuscade 4-	wall	-
right problem on the face to the left of orange n°10.
45	La Blanche 6c	slab	-
to the left of blue n°10, above a flat rock.
46	Lève la Patte 6c+ (7a)	dyno / slopers / mantle	-
dynamic start on the boulder just right of Exposition Rétrospective, without the base boulder.
47	Exposition Rétrospective 6c+ (6c)	wall	-
white 13 |
47a	Exposition Rétrospective assis 7b+	overhang / sitstart / slopers	Julien Nadiras
sitstart of Exposition Rétrospective (white n°13).
48	Il 7b (7b+)	overhang / sitstart	Didier Gérardin
sitstart under the roof and exit in red n°21.
48a	Sauvez Alain Robert 7c+ (8a)	sitstart / underclings / dyno	Tony Fouchereau
to the left of Il; sitstart to the right of red n°20, subsequently direct from the underclings to the "blade".
49	La Valse aux Trois Thons 7b+	traverse frtl / sitstart	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
sitstart to the right in the roof of Il and exit in Le Cheval d'Arçon (light blue n°17).
49a	Passage Piétons 7c (7c+)	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / arete	Grégoire Clouzeau
sitstart in Exposition Rétrospective (white n°13) and exit via the arete of Le Cheval d'Arçon (blue n°17). NB : it is also possible to start in red n°23 (rallongation by Grégoire Clouzeau).
50	Les Copains d'Abord 7a	prow / sitstart	Grégoire Clouzeau / Didier Gérardin
white 14 | left of orange n°17. Opened by Grégoire Clouzeau (direct version by Didier Gérardin, 7a/7a+).
51	La Plaisanterie 6b	traverse fltr	-
traverse on two faces on the boulder to the opposite of Le Bossu (red n°16).
52	Délivrance 7a+	wall / slab	Philippe Le Denmat
white 17 | on the boulder of Le Cervin (light blue n°40). (GPS: N48.461530 E2.663250)
52b	Marquis de Sade 7b	wall / slab	Jo Montchaussé
just left of Délivrance without the big chipped hold. (GPS: N48.461530 E2.663250)
53	La Dénoyautée 7a+	wall / crimps	Didier Gérardin
white 18 | to the right of the path in direction of the start of the red circuit.
54	- 4	-	-
former orange n°28 bis, to the right of the actual orange n°28.
55	Toutancanon 7b	traverse fltr / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
black 19 bis | 30m to the right and underneath the roof of La Baleine. Start to the left, traverse above a small boulder and exit in Mort en Mai (black n°19).
56	Lobotomie 7a (7b)	traverse fltr	-
black 22 bis | on the boulder to the right of the roof of La Baleine. Two possible starting points; lichenous (April 2009).
57	Orca droite 7a	roof / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
on the boulder to the right of the roof of La Baleine, above red n°10; sitstart.
57b	Orca 7c+	roof / slopers	Julien Nadiras
in the roof of La Baleine, above red n°10.
58	Baboon Master 8a+	roof / sitstart	Julien Nadiras
in the roof of La Baleine, above red n°10; sitstart to the right of La Baleine.
58b	Baboon Master rallongé 8b	roof / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault
in the roof of La Baleine, above red n°10; sitstart in La Baleine.
58c	La Baleine 7c+	roof / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
in the big roof with a graffiti above red n°10. Low sitstart in the roof just right of black n°21 and exit directly. (GPS: N48.461300 E2.662700)
59	Gros Câlin 7a	traverse fltr / bidoigt / underclings	Gilles Cottray
from red n°5 to red n°4; exit in that one.
60	La Mare droite 7b	overhang	Jacky Godoffe
right problem in the overhang on the right of the boulder of 36.15 Power.
60b	La Mare directe 7c (7b+)	overhang	Jacky Godoffe
to the right of the boulder of 36.15 Power.36.15 Power.
60b	La Mare directe assis 7c+	overhang / sitstart	-
to the left of 36.15 Power. Sitstart, climb the overhang and exit in La Mare directe.
61	Fosse Septique 6a+	slightly overhanging	Pepito
red arrow to the left of La Mare droite, on the boulder with white n°19 and white n°20.
62	Nut's 7b	slightly overhanging / crack	Olivier Penel
white 19 | to the right of 36.15 Power.
63	36.15 gauche 7a (7a+)	overhang / dyno	-
white 20 | dyno to the left from the undercling. (GPS: N48.461430 E2.663650)
63b	36.15 Power 7c (7c+)	overhang	-
white 20 bis | 7c+ with the sloper and without using the undercling. (GPS: N48.461430 E2.663650)
64	Le Mur de la Honte 7a+ (7a)	slab / crimps	Olivier Penel
on the backside of the boulder to the right of L'Attrape-Mouches (light blue n°6). The direct version is slighltly harder than the left version (which uses a chipped hold).
65	Pareur de Femmes 7a	arete	Didier Gérardin
10 m directly underneath Le Chaînon Manquant, on the opposite face of light blue n°4. Start in the corridor, with the right arete of the boulder and a left shoulder hold.
66	Le Bombé assis 7a	overhang / sitstart	Flavien Lucas
sitstart of light blue n°3. The left version is slightly easier than the right one.
67	Scarlatine assis 7b (7b+)	overhang / sitstart	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
sitstart of red n°2.
67b	Vilaine Biquette 8a (7c)	traverse fltr / sitstart	François Masbernat / Robert Girard
sitstart in Le Bombé (light blue n°3), traverse in the roof of the tunnel and exit in Scarlatine (red n°2).
68	Le Chaînon Manquant (avec l'arête) 7b	slightly overhanging / arete	Didier Gérardin
variant of Chaînon Manquant with the right arete. (GPS: N48.461230 E2.663600)
68b	Le Chaînon Manquant 7c (7c+)	slightly overhanging	Didier Gérardin
To the right of the start of the red circuit. Without the right arete (7b otherwise). (GPS: N48.461230 E2.663600)
69	Saccageur de Rêves 7c+	traverse frtl	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
traverse to the left and exit in red n°1.
70	Fantasia chez les Ploucs 7a+	overhang / slopers	Stéphan Denys
white 21 | right problem on the backside of the boulder with light blue n°1.
71	Les P'tites Poignées d'Amour 6c+	overhang / dyno	Stéphan Denys
left problem on the backside of the boulder with light blue n°1.
72	La Valse aux Adieux 8b	traverse fltr	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
on the backside of light blue n°1, above white n°3. Start with a pinch left hand and a crimp right hand, traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face. 8c by starting with the two hands on the left arete.
72b	La Valse aux Adieux prolongée 8c	traverse fltr	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
on the backside of light blue n°1, above white n°3. Start with with the two hands on the left arete, traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face as for La Valse aux Adieux.
73	La Maschine 7c	overhang	Antoine Eydoux
on the boulder to the right of Les Grimpeurs se Cachent pour Médire. Start with an undercling left hand in the roof and a crimp right hand on the ledge as for La Maschette, but exit slightly to the right.
73b	La Maschette 8a	overhang	Antoine Eydoux / Pierro Desbois
on the boulder to the right of Les Grimpeurs se Cachent pour Médire. Start with an undercling left hand in the roof and a crimp right hand on the ledge as for La Maschine, but exit to the left.
74	Les Grimpeurs se Cachent pour Médire 7a (6c+)	pillar / high	Grégoire Clouzeau
white 22 | on a boulder to the right of Full Metal Jacket (to the right and underneath the bivouac).
75	Full Metal Jacket 7b+	overhang	Julien Nadiras
white boulder, hooked up by two boulders above light blue n°1; morpho. (GPS: N48.461000 E2.663720)
75b	Full Metal Jacket assis 7c	overhang	Julien Nadiras
low start with an undercling. (GPS: N48.461000 E2.663720)
76	Compressman 7a	prow / slopers / sitstart	Cédric Chambellan
sitstart at the prow on the small boulder to the left of Full Metal Jacket, above light blue n°1.
77	L'Artif du Ciel 7a	crack / toprope	-
two boulders to the left of Full Metal Jacket, just under the top of the slope.
78	La Spontex 6b	slightly overhanging / mantle	Jean-Pierre Naudin
former start of the red circuit, on the boulder underneath and to the left of La Théorie du Chaos (white n°23).
79	La Théorie du Chaos 7b	arete / overhang	Olivier Penel
white 23 | on the ridge, on the backside of the boulder to the left and beyond the bivouac (start of the red circuit). Sitstart is 7b+ (Grégoire Clouzeau). (GPS: N48.460810 E2.664030)
79b	La Théorie du Chaos assis 7b+	sitstart / arete / overhang	Grégoire Clouzeau
on the ridge, on the backside of the boulder to the left and beyond the bivouac (start of the red circuit). Sitstart of La Théorie du Chaos. (GPS: N48.460810 E2.664030)
80	La Yoyo 6a	crack	Jean-Pierre Naudin
former red n°2, on the face to the right of La Théorie du Chaos (white n°23), to the left of Le Pain Noir (n°30 of the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires").
81	Le Pain Noir 6b (6a)	wall	Pepito
black 30 | on the face to the right of La Théorie du Chaos (white n°23). Direct wall to the right of La Yoyo (former red n°2).
82	Le Bonsaï 7a (7a+)	arete / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart in the round arete right of Chasseur de Prises; exit without the tree!
82b	La Maîtrise du Genre Littéraire 7c (8a)	arete / slopers / sitstart	François Masbernat / Robert Girard
sitstart 3m to the right of Chasseur de Prises (same start point as for Le Bonsaï), climb the round arete and exit via the last hold of Chasseur de Prises.
82c	Yo Seré Général 8a+	arete / slopers / traverse frtl	François Masbernat
sitstart 3m to the right of Chasseur de Prises as for La Maîtrise du Genre Littéraire, traverse to the left and exit in L'Envers du Décor.
83	Chasseur de Prises 7a	slopers	Philippe Le Denmat
white 24 |
83b	Chasseur de Prises assis 7c (7b+)	sitstart / slopers	Olivier Lebreton
sitstart of Chasseur de Prises.
84	L'Envers du Décor 7a+	wall	Eric Létot
between Caterpillar and Chasseur de Prises.
84b	Caterpillar 7a	wall / expo	Emmanuel Ratouis
to the left of Chasseur de Prises (white n°24). Sitstart is 7b+.
84c	Caterpillar assis 7b+	wall / sitstart	Olivier Lebreton
sitstart of Caterpillar, to the left of Chasseur de Prises.
		Outside the topo
Miracle 7b		traverse frtl	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
11m traverse on three faces, on an isolated boulder located in plot 862, 500m from the parking lot, along the blue path. Start at the left of the downclimbing face, pass a first angle, traverse in a short face, climb the after the second angle, downclimb to a sandy ledge and exit after the third angle, or just before in the overhang (original exit now requiring a dyno, since holds broke off). Access : from the parking lot, follow the big path of La Route de la Table du Roi, turn right at La Route du Laisser Courre and then left at the blue path. The problem can be found on the biggest boulder 150m further, on the left of the path. (GPS: N48.459300 E2.666537)
L'Angle de l'Astragale (voie de gauche) 4		arete / crack	-
angle right hand with a small crack 1m50 to the left of L'Astragale (red n°33).
Destruction d'Indices 6b (6b+)		traverse frtl / slab	Sylvie Tribillon
start in the crack of blue n°32, make a part of the back traverse of Un Verset Satanique, pass a first angle, low traverse in the face of yellow n°13, continue past the gully of Épousaille and exit just after the second angle.
Magifix assis 7a		slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	-
sitstart (without crash-pad) with an undercling right hand and a vertical hold left hand, take the crimp of the standing start and exit in white n°2.
Le Sphinx 5+		slab / wall / slopers	-
just left of light blue n°8 (and former position of this number in the circui).
Styrax assis 7b		slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
on the boulder of Le Cheval d'Arçon Sitstart with an undercling right hand and exit in Styrax (red n°22), without using by convention the holds of orange n°22 on the left.
Hymne à la Mort 5		slightly overhanging	Philippe Berger / Pepito
former blue n°8 (now marked by an orange triangle), to the left of L'Œil de Çiva.
Hymne à la Mort assis 6b		overhang / sitstart	-
direct sitstart of L'Hymne à la Mort (former blue n°8 now marked by an orange triangle), to the left of L'Œil de Çiva.
Pierre Tombal 5-		slab	-
at the end of Ténèbres de l'Ouganda (black n°18), on the North face of the boulder of Toutancanon, see the topo of the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires".
Tam-Tam d'Afrique Noire 5+		overhang	-
traverse to the right starting underneath the overhang, on a boulder 30m to the right and underneath the roof of La Baleine (see the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires").
Nabot Minable 4+		mantle	-
former red problem, at the beginning of black n°22, on the boulder behind La Baleine, see the topo of the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires".
Charleston 6c		slightly overhanging / arete	Pepito / Yann Bruneau
black triangle to the left of La Cave de l'Oncle Tom, in the overhang of the bivouac (see n°26 of the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires").
Le Prince Noir 4		wall	-
wall at the beginning of Noir Zazate, see the topo of the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires".
Le Singe qui a Traversé la Mer 7c		traverse frtl	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
do the back traverse of black n°10, continue low on the left and exit in black n°11 (see the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires").
Soleil Noir 6a		dyno	Pepito / Jean-Yves Rosz
dyno to the right of the exit of Nébuleuse (see n°1 of the Phantom Circuit Fantôme ED- "Idées Noires").
- 5		wall	-
black triangle to the left of the former start of the yellow circuit, near the boulder of black n°6, see the Phantom Circuit ED- "Idées Noires".
La Clé de Ut 5+		wall / slopers	-
former red n°25, on the boulder to the opposite of red n°37. Start right at an old arrow and exit on slopers.
La Clé de Ut assis 6c (6c+)		slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Yann Bruneau / Pepito
on the boulder to the opposite of red n°37. Sitstart at the right angle, climb the wall and exit on slopers in La Clé de Ut (former red n°25).
Retrouvaille 7a (6c)		mantle / slopers	G.Malauxdoigts  / J. Arrivepas
to the left of Passage Canonique, on the boulder to the opposite of red n°37. Start at a round angle, dyno to slopers and exit by a mantle above a small boulder. NB : an easier mantle 1m50 on the left is also possible.
Retrouvaille assis 7a+		wall / mantle / sitstart	C. Pas 7a
to the left of Passage Canonique, on the boulder to the opposite of red n°37. Sitstart at a round angle, dyno to slopers and exit by a mantle above a small boulder.
Retrouvaille Canonique 6c (7a)		traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Grégoire Clouzeau
on the boulder to the opposite of red n°37. Sitstart as for Passage Canonique, traverse to the right and exit on slopers slightly before Retrouvaille.
Le Col Dégrafé 5 (5+)		wall	Olivier Cazeaux
to the right of blue n°30.
L'Angle du 30 4		arete	Olivier Cazeaux
direct angle to the left of blue n°30.
La Boule à Pierre 7c+ (7c)		traverse frtl / slopers	Pierre Gonzales
short traverse on the boulder just after Le Cadeau du Vent (start of the white circuit), traverse to the left and exit in a bowl.
Hanuman 7c (7b+)		slightly overhanging / slopers	Antoine Eydoux
on the left face of Compressman, on the small boulder to the left of Full Metal Jacket, above light blue n°1.
Hanuman assis 7c+		slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Antoine Vandeputte
on the left face of Compressman, on the small boulder to the left of Full Metal Jacket, above light blue n°1. Sitstart in Compressman and exit in Hanuman.
An 8a+ 4+		wall / mantle / sitstart	Christopher Searle
2m to the left of n°8 jaune. Sitstart with an obvious side-pull, slap to the slopers and mantle out.
La Traversée du Groin 6a		traverse frtl	Olivier Cazeaux
start to the right of blue n°24, low traverse and exit 1m to the right of red n°30.
Le Matou Narquois 5+		wall	Olivier Cazeaux
in the narrow corridor 2m to the right of the crack of blue n°27.
Le Bombé Fendu 5- (5)		belly	Olivier Cazeaux
belly on the backside of yellow n°4 and to the right of yellow n°6.
La Dülfer du Bombé 5 (5+)		crack / sitstart	Olivier Cazeaux
on the backside of yellow n°4 and to the right of yellow n°6. Sitstart, climb the crack and exit in Le Bombé Fendu.
Platch 6b		overhang / crack / sitstart	Bruno Lazzerini
to the left of the blue path, just before L'Œil de Çiva. Sitstart, climb the overhang using a crack and exit by a mantle.
Via Grat' 6a		wall / crimps	Sylvie Tribillon
direct problem in between the red triangle and the yellow one, on the boulder of blue n°30.
Via Graciosa 6c		traverse fltr / crimps	Sylvie Tribillon
start at blue n°30, traverse on crimps and exit completely right.
Coin Cuisine 4+		arete	Olivier Cazeaux
left angle on the boulder of red n°42.
Tambour Vaisselle 6a		wall	Sylvie Tribillon
to the left of Coin Cuisine, on the boulder of red n°42.
Étagère 3+ (4-)		wall	Olivier Cazeaux
second problem to the right of red n°42.
Hexentric Fingers 5+		wall	Henri Fumagali
just right of red n°42, with the pockets right hand.
Marquetterie 4+		wall / slab	Olivier Cazeaux
just left of Épousaille, on the face of yellow n°14.
Épousaille 5		crack	Olivier Cazeaux
gully just left of yellow n°14.
Fiançaille 4		wall / slab	Henri Fumagali
just right of yellow n°14.
Caravan 6a		traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Sylvie Tribillon
sitstart in Rondopo, at the end of the traverse of La Longue Marche (red n°35), traverse on slopers, pass the angle of L'Œuf de Colombe (red n°31) without the top holds and exit in the other face by a thin gully.
Deux Seins qui Tiennent 6c+		slightly overhanging / mantle	Loïc de Saint Etienne / Guillaume Joubert
on the South-West face of the boulder of blue n°10, in the center of the area. Start in a small pit with an undercling and exit with round pinches above.
Tête de Mule 6a		wall / slopers	-
on the boulder to the left of white n°2 (of the children's circuit), near the parking lot.
Vol Innocent 6c		wall / expo / sitstart	Pepito
sitstart of the wall just right of Le Cadeau du Vent.
Mauvaise Foi 6a+		wall / slopers	-
between red n°25 and light blue n°25.
Mauvaise Foi assis 6c		wall / slopers / sitstart	-
sitstart between red n°25 and light blue n°25.
La Super Canon 6a		slab	Philippe Berger / Pepito
just right of Le Bossu (red n°16).
- 5-		prow	J. Arrivepas
small loose prow at the tree to the right of red n°37.
Vacances à la Neige 7b		belly / slopers / sitstart	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
small belly 150m from the parking lot in direction of Chasseur de Prises, 50m underneath Les Copains d'Abord. Sitstart with a vertical crimp left hand and a vertical sloper right hand and exit above.
Coup de Canon 7b (7a+)		slightly overhanging / expo	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
on the backside of L'Artif du Ciel, on the West face of the big boulder of "Le Canon", 10m to the left of La Théorie du Chaos. Standing start at the bottom of a crack with two pockets climb the overhang and exit in the wall above.
Zoé 7a+		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
sitstart at the bottom of Les Grimpeurs se Cachent pour Médire, traverse to the right, take a sidepull and exit 1m50 to the right of Les Grimpeurs se Cachent pour Médire.

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