El Paso 7c+ 8a Apremont Envers

Francis Hélias
toit, départ assis

Depuis la N7 (parking en face du Cuvier), suivre la Route de la Solitude un peu au delà du carrefour Félix Herbet; le bloc se situe sur la gauche, à l'endroit où le GR bifurque. Remonter le toit sur la gauche, en départ assis au ras du sol, d'autant plus difficile qu'on part au fond.

  • Appréciation
  • 3,2 Étoiles
  • (11 au total)
  • Évaluation
  • 7b+: 5,9%
  • 7c: 11,8%
  • 7c+: 41,2%
  • 8a: 41,2%
  • (17 au total)
depart et arrivée - 1 grimpeur (13-01-2005 15:29)
Aïe don te spique angliche. Désolé. J'ai bien vu qu'il y avait des explications dans une autre langue mais je ne la parle et lis pas.
Si je comprends bien, tu pars du fond avec le bi ou tri -doigts en inversée, tu remontes....tout droit ou tu passes sous l'angle? Et tu sors sur les plats ou sur le rebord qui te permet de faire un réta.
Max m'a dit qu'il y avait plusieurs voies. J'en vois au moins trois ou quatre.

Merci pour les explications ou tout éclairage.
un peu perdu - Anonymous (15-01-2005 21:21)
visiblement, c'est un bloc à convention. Mais je cherche encore la ou lesquelles car le 8a me semble bien improbable sans élimintante.

Quelqu'un qui l'aurait en V.O. à sa liste de croix peut-il nous à en traduire toutes les subtilités?

Merci
inexistant et suffisant - (12-03-2005 12:22)
On peut toujours s'interroger sur la neccessité de nommer et coter un passage d'autant plus qu'il est à conventions, le passage originel non séléctif n'était-il pas suffisant??

Hummmm - (18-03-2005 00:44)
"why do foreigners have to climb "ur" best lines"....good question. Just ask to Jacky his nationality, french no?.Unless jacky opened only bullshits such as Big boss, one of the biggest "bouse" of Bleau...That's right that Jacky is not a "Bleausard", Is that right to youn Ian???

bleau
photos - JMLeggia (14-06-2005 11:58)
J'ai trouvé le décomposé de El Paso par son ouvreur sur ce lien.

http://www.grimporama.com/francais/images/ph_elpaso.htm

Après quelques essais, je trouve que c'est dur et morpho. C'est pas gagné pour un chasseur de croix rapide!
Morpho ? - (14-06-2005 13:36)
on peut pas dire que Francis soit du genre géant...A moins que par morpho tu signifies : mise en boîte garantie genre Houdini pour les très grands :-)
XXS - JMLeggia (14-06-2005 14:02)
Oui, c'est plutôt pour les nains de jardins surtout le remonté de jambe au niveau du nombril.
jeu de vilain !! - Pierre Robès (10-08-2005 23:05)
Sans nul doute un must pour bourriner sans peur au raz du sol mais bien trop conventionnel pour justifier son appellation. Juste un jeu pour garder la forme. Le passage logique par la gauche est autour de 7b sans convention et reste innommé.
methodes - Anonymous (17-04-2013 15:04)
salut,

j'aimerais bien avoir qques infos sur ce bloc notamment ou placer le pied droit quand on a chope l'espece de bi en pince MD ? car je n'arrive pas a prendre MG le 1er plat apres...je crochete mon PD au fond au debut mais apres me retrouve tout etire dans cette position.
voila si vous avez des methodes pour ce bloc je suis preneur. Suis alle voir sur grimporama le decompose mais ca ne m'aide pas plus.
Merci.

skip
up - Anonymous (09-05-2013 16:36)
personne n'a fait ou essaye ce bloc ?
what is EXTREMELY low ??? - stef (23-04-2003 20:46)

There is a big hold 40cm above ground for the left hand with a big place for both foot under, the you can reach a big bi with right hanfd ? Can it be 8a with this start ??
Difference between elpaso and fossillisation ? - stef (23-04-2003 23:30)
Don't undesrtand how can 2 route can be done on a so small boulder ?
lie down - Anonymous (24-04-2003 02:18)
if I remember it well it has a lie-down start in the back of a roof just a couple of inches above the ground to exit via an arete.
difference - Anonymous (24-04-2003 14:49)
el paso is a straight up, fossilation is a traverse that crosses el paso
Hi jos - stef (24-04-2003 19:51)

Do i understand that you take a righthand twofingerpocket to cross on a pinch lefthanded and then go rihgt ? this is THE logical way ... but what hell is elPaso ????

stef
How can 2 routes crosses when ther is only 1m wide of rock ???? - stef (24-04-2003 19:53)
??? don't understand more ? I think fossilisation is the only route on this boulder ?
wrong boulder - Anonymous (24-04-2003 20:27)
i think you got the wrong block.
it's a big but low boulder.
on the right of el paso there are two more problems
don't think so jos... - stef (24-04-2003 23:32)

no mistake for the boulder, a 7a on the rigth with big sloper a top ( and crack 50 right) but on the left, i see only ONE passage (with very low satrt on big lefthand (maybe 7c+ or 8a) . But where is The second one ? if you go rigth from the bottom, it sould be 7a ? May be christian now the 2 boulder since he has opende the second one ?

setf
2nd - Anonymous (25-04-2003 02:41)
I think fossilation starts 3m left of el paso and exits in the 7a+ at the right.
what is what???? - mark (03-03-2004 15:40)
I did a travers that started in a big hole to the leftbutom. traversed righit, on the lip and finished out after geting the bighold on the lip. think this was the Fossillisation ther was also a problem righit of this problem that whent throw a crack and finished on slopers
i'll have to ask - Anonymous (06-03-2004 23:10)
I'll ask Christian about the exact line of his problem.
Jos
the answer - Anonymous (09-03-2004 01:18)
Christian wrote me:
The fossilation traverse goes from left to right.
Start on slopers, pass the arete, go down into the roof, traverse it to exit right.
- - harrr (11-03-2005 17:35)
judging from this discussion el paso doesnt seem to be a good problem as other helias-nonsense problems like "when exigence dies" (or how was it called?)
soon f.h. will be successful in becoming famous (what he was after, all the time) but definetly not in a positive way but as the person who has given names to the most unrepeated and needless problems in the world... (especially his very cool there-and-back-up-and-down-three-times-around-the-block-traverses)

QUESTION: why is it necessary that day koyomada flies around the half of the globe to first ascent the logical and very cool lower start of fatamorgana and satanihelvet while the bleau locals try to link the crappy moves of imohtep sds or try to climb some traverse there and back ???
Nice reflexion .... - (11-03-2005 23:14)
I totaly agree with you except sds imothep migth be the logical SDS of 2006..... while low fata morgana is not so logical.. sit down is sitted on the sand... low is low, kind of low not high ans so one, you must precise what is low..... but sat is sat nothing to add, you sit down and end to the top

PS add to that the numerous very nice problems opened by julien and compare to the numerous unexistent problem of francis .... do You know Maunoury.... One major problem from julien, 20 nonexistent others problems you can miss even if you're in front....
don't agree entirely with you - Anonymous (11-03-2005 23:31)
francis is not a friend of mine. but he's just searching for the hardest moves to do. so most of his boulders are very conventionnal. there are a lot of boulders even in the most famous which are in some ways conventionnal. low start is an example of this statement. for he boulders of the maunoury, some of my friends went there and to their opinion there are some ones which are great: les tetines, baloo... i think i will go soon to check by myself so i could tell you my opinion. el paso is not very nice for the hardest variant but the right varaiant is pretty cool. julien has also opened non sense boulders and there are many others that are in that case.
never mind, this is not the most important. fracis open for his pleasure and he tells about what he does. it's up to if you want to climb his bolulders.
see you
harr has it spot on! - ian (14-03-2005 15:25)

to harrr:
whoever you are...: there is certainly some truth in what u say. i guess that's why no one is inclined to answer ur question.. i guess the thing is that font really is NOT THE place to be anymore and hasn't been so for quite some time. bleausards still try to be top notch but just aren't all that good at it anymore. maybe that''s why the logical lines have to be climbed by foreigners who still have a more or less good idea of what a logical boulder or great line should look like. also, downgrading is everywhere and it will definitely arrive at font in the near future. climbing crap out of fear that THE former mekka of bouldering is turing into a sodom&gomorra like downfall?? who knows..
i myself tried the imothep thing a couple of months ago and fell topping out on my third!!! day??!! and i wouldn't ever consider myself as a world-class climber.. if bleausards stopped trying to force out that fb 8c for their home area maybe future fa would be high-class as they used to be..?
the satanihelvete thing is rediculous as u mentioned. i tried it sd from the beginning on and was bummed how hard 8a can be... on the other hand, mr. REAL numbers d.g. did the fa and had media know about it. scorecards scorecards for ever and everyone...!
cheers
ian
Don't agree with you ian.... - (14-03-2005 17:10)

Imothep is certainly a major 8a of the forest, but it's a kind of stamina boulder, and so can appear easier than other 8a (c'etait demain etc..) . Sure short boulder problem (those of ninety's) are not nomuerous, but satan y hevete is definitively a separate 8b problem.... as well as the new 8b+ near fil de verre...

I hope A World class climber can do imothep flash... not fall at the top after 3 days....


Best regards
aahmm.. - ian (17-03-2005 16:40)


i don't really mind the misunderstanding but it was three days until i fell topping on sitstart imothep.. and didn't think it to be that hard. well might have been a lucky day anyway i didn't finish the problem. however, question still is: why do foreigners have to climb ur best lines??
problem left` - Anonymous (31-03-2009 19:17)
We wer at this boulder today but forgot to take a topo, so I climbed pretty much all the lines to be sure I did the right way.

But there were a load of chalked holds left of the crack of clandestino, we did a problem jsut using the slopers left of the crack from a sit start, Is this actually a problem?


thanks