XXL (direct assis) 7c+ Rocher Saint-Germain

sitstart, wall, slopers
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  • 7c: 100.0%
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Versions - Anonymous (10-02-2013 18:40)
Bonjour,

Je suis passé sur ce bloc aujourd'hui, et je ne suis pas sûr d'avoir bien compris la différence entre la version directe et indirecte.

Personellement, je suis parti assis avec une inversée plate assez haute main gauche, puis je prends une bonne réglette évidente main droite. De là je fais un très grand mouv (plutôt très morpho et difficilement cotable) sur une prise platte au milieu de la face (la suite est assez claire).
Autrement dit, je ne prends pas les grosses prises de la fissure de droite qui, pour moi, constituent la version indirecte en 7A...

Bref, je voulais donc savoir si j'avais bien respecté l'une des deux versions, et si oui laquelle ?

Merci d'avance pour vos renseignemments.

Bonne grimpe
Nicolas G
yes - Anonymous (10-02-2013 22:10)
Sorry for not writting in french, but the direct just uses the arete and not the holds underneath, basically you sit start and take the arete left hand, then match it, and move up it finishing just right, the other version takes the crimp in the roof, then you just move your left hand up the arete until you can make the move into the good slot

hope this helps
yes - Anonymous (10-02-2013 22:11)
Sorry for not writting in french, but the direct just uses the arete and not the holds underneath, basically you sit start and take the arete left hand, then match it, and move up it finishing just right, the other version takes the crimp in the roof, then you just move your left hand up the arete until you can make the move into the good slot

hope this helps
sorry - Anonymous (10-02-2013 22:11)
sorry the other way around :)
same boulder ?? - Anonymous (10-02-2013 22:26)
Hi,

I'm not sure we're talking about the same boulder. The climb I did was a slightly overhanging wall where you start in a pit. It's just one or two blocs behind the Soucis d'Air dyno.
There was no roof nor left arete, but a big step for the feet, an obvious right hand good crimp, and then nothing until a sloppy edge in the middle of the wall that you grad left hand. The move wasn't really hard but so morpho that I'm not sure it was the right boulder.
Maybe I didn't climb on the right boulder then... :)

Thanks for your quick answer.
Nicolas G
pictures ? - Anonymous (24-02-2014 12:55)
Is there anyone who has some pictures of this problem? Tried too find it several times, but not sure if i found the right piece of rock.

Cheers Kees