Traverse on a boulder with pockets, completly West on the South side of Long Rocher, along a small path on ridge leading to the plateau. Sitstart on the left without crash-pad next to a stone with a crimp left hand and a slopey pocket right hand, traverse to the right, pass the arete and exit by a mantle just before the tree.
The quickest access is to park at the edge of the forest at the end of the Montigny-sur-Loing cemetery (Vallée aux Châtons). Follow La Route du Croc Marin towards the North until its intersection with the Route de la Grande Vallée (400m) and take a small paths that goes up the slope to the right. The boulder is near the top of the ridge.
