Coquibus Roche Feuilletée (Sensitive biological reserve)    

  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet

Coquibus is a particular and very sensitive part of the forest which must be treated with the greatest respect by visitors. Its status as a biological reserve allows you to climb there but this could one day be called into question due to too many visitors or irresponsible behavior. We ask climbers to limit their presence or otherwise their impact in the different areas of Coquibus as much as possible. In particular, do not go in groups, do not climb after sunset and do not use electrical devices (drones, fans, radios, etc.). Reduce chalk to the strict minimum, erase all traces of your passage and finally do not brush new boulders. Avoid leaving the paths and keep your dog on a leash from April to July.

Please read our ethics page.
This sector gathers the problems (generally of grade 6 or 7) in the South face of La Roche Feuilletée. For the access, park the car at the parking lot of Longs Vaux, come back on the road and take Le Chemin de Rumont: the boulders are up the slope, just under the plateau.


Absalom (du fond) 7b+ David Evrard wall, expo, sitstart
La Balade des Pendus 7b+ Alain Denis overhang, pockets, sitstart
La Traversée de Phineas 7b+ David Evrard traverse fltr
La Traversée de Rabbit's Skin 7b+ 7c David Evrard traverse fltr, dihedral


Chiquenaudes 7b Manuel Marquès wall, high, sitstart
Hommage aux Pieds Nus 7b Manuel Marquès slab, slopers, high
La Course aux Nuages 7b 7a+ Thierry Guéguen traverse frtl, slopers
Maigre Pitance (rallongé) 7b Manuel Marquès sitstart, traverse frtl, wall
Phineas (assis) 7b David Evrard wall, crimps, sitstart


Absalom 7a+ 7b David Evrard wall, pinches, expo
Effeuillage 7a+ 7b Gars Des Bois traverse fltr, slopers
Lakmé 7a+ David Evrard roof, high, sitstart
Phineas 7a+ David Evrard wall, crimps, roof
Superheavy 7a+ 7b Gérald Coste, Tony Fouchereau wall, crimps


Bombe du Genre pas Mal 7a 7a+ Thierry Guéguen roof, sitstart
Frais de Recherche 7a Christian Roumégoux traverse frtl
Maigre Pitance 7a 7a+ Manuel Marquès wall, high
Railroad 7a 7a+ David Evrard traverse frtl, arete
Uprising 7a David Evrard wall, prow, crimps


Les Temps Modernes 6c+ 7a David Evrard, Stéphan Denys sitstart


Betula Pendula 6c 6c+ David Evrard wall, crimps, expo
Limelight 6c David Evrard roof, traverse frtl, expo
One Leaders 6c David Evrard, Stéphan Denys roof, wall, crimps
Ptosis 6c 6c+ David Evrard arete, high, sitstart


Between Showers 6b+ 6c David Evrard slopers, pockets
Tango Tangles 6b+ 6c David Evrard wall, crimps, slopers


Attraction 6b 6c David Evrard pockets, dyno
La Roulette Russe 6b David Evrard roof
Loin des Yeux 6b 6c David Evrard wall, pockets, sitstart
One Leaders (droite) 6b David Evrard roof, arete, sitstart
Rabbit's Skin 6b David Evrard dihedral, underclings, high



Le Jeu de la Dalle 5+ 6a David Evrard slab