Moulin de Roisneau    

  • Author: Cyril Bottollier
  • Author: Cyril Bottollier

This sector is located on the right bank of the river Essonne, to the opposite of Le Rempart d'Argeville, between Nanteau and Chantambre. The simplest access consists in taking the road of Buthiers (from Chapelle-la-Reine or by the D410) but just before the village, take the D53a in direction of Nanteau and Villetard for 4km900. Park just after a marked bend on the right, along the river (the boulders are visible from road). From the parking lot, take a path for 50m to the East, and then left in directly in the slope. Most o the problems are near the top of the hill.
Caution! This sector is on a private plot, reserved to hunters in winter. One should be particularly discrete and respectful of the site, avoiding especially week-ends and hunting days.

7c+

Vive le Surf 7c+ 8a Thomas Collignon arete

7c

Fa Gaff 7c Lucas Ménégatti prow, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Le Kurde (assis) 7c Thomas Collignon arete, expo, sitstart

7b+

Desperados 7b+ Lucas Ménégatti, Nils Ménégatti prow, slightly overhanging, slopers
Le Moignon 7b+ Thomas Collignon wall
Los Bonitos 7b+ Thomas Collignon, Gérald Coste, Romain Hocquemiller wall, crimps, slopers

7b

Le Kurde 7b Thomas Collignon arete, expo

7a+

Basique 7a+ Thomas Collignon, Romain Hocquemiller prow, slightly overhanging, expo
Bloqu'X 7a+ Gérald Coste, Romain Hocquemiller wall, expo
La Tartiflette 7a+ Thomas Collignon, Gérald Coste, Romain Hocquemiller slopers, expo
Serre et Baffe 7a+ Gérald Coste wall, crimps
Yak Yak Yak 7a+ Romain Hocquemiller arete

7a

Reta X 7a Romain Hocquemiller mantle, dyno

6c+

Arobase 6c+ 7a Thomas Collignon, Gérald Coste, Romain Hocquemiller wall
Mono X 6c+ Thomas Collignon, Gérald Coste, Romain Hocquemiller wall
Triple X 6c+ Thomas Collignon, Gérald Coste, Romain Hocquemiller arete

6c

Le Mangeur de Graines 6c Romain Bony, Antoine Bony wall, dyno

6b+

Peter Pan 6b+ Nicolas Blaise, Eric Létot slab, expo

6b

Baïkonour 6b Cyril Bottollier arete
Calme Plat 6b 6c Cyril Bottollier wall
Falloudjah 6b 6c Cyril Bottollier wall
Graine de Plaisir 6b Pepito wall, arete
Jet'X 6b Romain Hocquemiller dyno, underclings
L'Ami de L'Arbre 6b 6c Gérald Coste, Romain Hocquemiller arete
La Médaille 6b Gérald Coste wall
Le Sabre 6b Lucas Ménégatti slightly overhanging, arete, sitstart
Polémique 6b Eric Létot wall
Roulement à Billes 6b Thomas Collignon arete

6a+

Flytox 6a+ Cyril Bottollier, Nicolas Blaise, Eric Létot slab, expo
La Dülf Coquine 6a+ crack, slopers, high

6a

Albatros, c'est Trop 6a Cyril Bottollier dihedral
Arrache-moi si tu Peux 6a Thomas Collignon, Gérald Coste, Romain Hocquemiller wall, crack
Beauté Cachée 6a Pepito slightly overhanging, dyno
Chipsophile 6a Nicolas Blaise, Cyril Bottollier slab
Farfagasse 6a Nicolas Blaise arete, expo
Fragile 6a Cyril Bottollier prow, arete, crack
La Terre 6a Yano Salaün slightly overhanging
Le Couloir 6a Gérald Coste wall
Le Malade Imaginaire 6a Nicolas Blaise wall, mantle
Le Palper-Rouler 6a Cyril Bottollier wall, mantle
Plaisir Fragile 6a Cyril Bottollier prow, arete, high
Plutôt Vague 6a Cyril Bottollier, Nicolas Blaise, Eric Létot wall
Simple 6a Romain Hocquemiller arete, expo

5+

Blacks Out 5+ Cyril Bottollier slab
Bout de Gras 5+ Eric Létot mantle
Gris-Gris 5+ Cyril Bottollier wall
L'Ébéniste 5+ Gérald Coste, Romain Hocquemiller arete, wall
Le Volant à Droite 5+ Cyril Bottollier wall, mantle, dyno
Moab 5+ Gérald Coste, Romain Hocquemiller crack, expo
Rescue Claudio 5+ Romain Bony, Gérald Coste, Romain Hocquemiller wall, crack
Traverse-moi 5+ Eric Létot traverse fltr

5

Capitaine Flam 5 Cyril Bottollier wall
Proxima 5 Cyril Bottollier, Nicolas Blaise wall
Warm Up 5 Eric Létot wall, underclings

5-

35 Heurts 5- Cyril Bottollier wall, mantle
Capital Flemme 5- Gérard Delmont, Cyril Bottollier wall, arete
Faute de Grives 5- Cyril Bottollier crack
La Boule 5- Gérald Coste arete
La Marie-Jeanne 5- Eric Létot wall
Le Marbre 5- Gérald Coste, Romain Hocquemiller slab
Malin et Demi 5- Eric Létot wall
Pedro l'Âne 5- Cyril Bottollier crack

4+

La Dalle à Marie 4+ Eric Létot slab

4

Four Wall One 4 Gérald Coste, Romain Hocquemiller slab
Four Wall Three 4 Cyril Bottollier, Romain Hocquemiller, Gérald Coste slab
La Fissure à Louise 4 Louise Blaise crack
Pin Bénit 4 Cyril Bottollier wall

4-

Four Wall Two 4- Cyril Bottollier, Romain Hocquemiller, Gérald Coste slab