Le Surplomb de Villetard (sortie gauche)
overhang, pockets, sitstart
On the boulder of Le Surplomb de Villetard. Sitstart on big pockets, climb the overhang, take the arete right hand, traverse to the left on the ledge of the roof and exit at a big jug. Access : from Malesherbes, traverse the village of Nanteau, park the car to the right, near a house with a white gate and a bus stop, and take a path to the right into the forest. Turn right after 150 metres (just before the path goes uphill) into a chaos of boulders. The problem is on the first boulder of the chaos.