Coquibus Grandes Vallées (Sensitive biological reserve)    

  • Author: Gars Des Bois

Coquibus is a particular and very sensitive part of the forest which must be treated with the greatest respect by visitors. Its status as a biological reserve allows you to climb there but this could one day be called into question due to too many visitors or irresponsible behavior. We ask climbers to limit their presence or otherwise their impact in the different areas of Coquibus as much as possible. In particular, do not go in groups, do not climb after sunset and do not use electrical devices (drones, fans, radios, etc.). Reduce chalk to the strict minimum, erase all traces of your passage and finally do not brush new boulders. Avoid leaving the paths and keep your dog on a leash from April to July.

Coquibus is an area of ​​relative tranquility and rather spared until now, which should continue to be taken care of, abstaining from any equipment. The choice was made not to develop anything at Coquibus because of its ecological value (source ONF: Aménagement des forêts domaniales de Fontainebleau et Trois Pignons).
Please read our ethics page.
This small area, discovered early by Jean-Claude Valluet and Max, has been completed recently and now proposes about 30 problems between 5a and 7b.
Access : park the car on the D409 (between Milly-la-Forêt and Arbonne) at the crossing with La Route de la Croix Saint-Jérôme. Climb the slope in direction of the North (no evident path) to find the boulders, under the crest.
Other recent boulders are located next to houses : it is asked not to climb them during week-ends or holidays.
NB: please, do not park the car on Le Chemin des Grandes Vallées (Chemin des 100 marches), because it leads to dwellings.

8a

Ciel et Terre (droite) 8a Manuel Marquès slightly overhanging, traverse fltr, sitstart
Le Vent dans la Plaine 8a Sébastien Frigault slightly overhanging, wall, sitstart
Terre et Ciel 8a Manuel Marquès slightly overhanging, crimps, sitstart

7c+

Ciel et Terre 7c+ Christophe Laumone traverse fltr, pillar, sitstart

7c

Déception 7c Camille coudert, Killian Chabrier prow, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Délit de Haine (assis) 7c 7c+ Manuel Marquès traverse fltr, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Délit de Sale Nom (assis) 7c 7c+ Pascal Gagneux slightly overhanging, dyno, sitstart
Le Boy Cote des Nains (assis) 7c Maxime Baroud overhang, arete, sitstart
Le Vent dans la Plaine (direct) 7c slightly overhanging, sitstart
Shikantaza-Compassion 7c 7b+ David Evrard traverse frtl, crimps, sitstart
Terres Sauvages 7c 7c+ Manuel Marquès traverse fltr, slightly overhanging

7b+

Haine Ordi Nerf 7b+ Gilles Cottray slightly overhanging, wall
Shikantaza (assis) 7b+ 7b David Evrard prow, crimps, sitstart

7b

Jeu de Mot Laid 7b Gilles Cottray pillar
La Traversée de Délit de Sale Nom 7b 7b+ Olivier Gx, Tony Fouchereau slightly overhanging, traverse fltr
Shikantaza (en traversée) 7b Manuel Marquès traverse frtl

7a+

Délit de Haine 7a+ 7b Filip Notebaert slightly overhanging
Détectif (assis) 7a+ 7b Sébastien Frigault roof, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Filature (assis) 7a+ Stéphan Denys, Philippe Dumez arete, sitstart
Grimpe Était Toit (avec le trou) 7a+ Max, Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray roof, sitstart
Grimpe Était Toit (retour-aller) 7a+ Richard Reggio, Pierre-Adrien Calbo traverse, roof, sitstart
L'Angle Marin 7a+ Hugo Parmentier arete, sitstart, mantle
L'Étroit Mousse, plus Bas que Terre 7a+ 7b Gilles Cottray roof, sitstart
L'Étroit Mousse, plus Bas que Toit 7a+ 7b Gars Des Bois roof, traverse frtl, sitstart
L'Étroit Mousse, plus Bas que Tout 7a+ 7b roof, sitstart
La Gratanani 7a+ Hugo Cottray slightly overhanging, crimps, sitstart
La Gratanani (rallongé) 7a+ 7b Hugo Cottray slightly overhanging, crimps, traverse fltr
Lâcher Prise 7a+ Manuel Marquès overhang, sitstart
Lalaland 7a+ David Evrard wall, crimps, expo
Le Boy Cote des Nains 7a+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray slightly overhanging, underclings, arete
Plus de Mousse que de Terre 7a+ 7a Cedric Nasse traverse frtl, traverse fltr, roof
Plus de Mousse que de Toit 7a+ Cedric Nasse traverse frtl, roof, sitstart
Plus de Mousse que de Tout 7a+ 7a Hugo Cottray slightly overhanging, traverse frtl, sitstart

7a

Aussi Mousse que Terre 7a Melchior Mage, Fée Desblocs roof, sitstart
Aux Berges des Voies 7a Justin Roupillon traverse, slopers, mantle
Culbuto 7a David Evrard prow, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Délit de Sale Nom 7a Gilles Cottray slightly overhanging, dyno
Détectif 7a Stéphan Denys slightly overhanging
En Dessous de Terre 7a 6c+ roof, sitstart
En Dessous de Toit 7a Gars Des Bois roof, traverse frtl, sitstart
En Dessous de Tout 7a Gilles Cottray roof, sitstart
Filature 7a Stéphan Denys, Philippe Dumez arete
Grimpe Était Toit 7a Max, Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray roof, traverse fltr, sitstart
Grimpe Était Toit (prolongé) 7a Richard Reggio, Pierre-Adrien Calbo roof, traverse
Interminable 7a Michael Corme wall, crimps
Le Bidon de GP (droite) 7a 7a+ Hugo Cottray prow, sitstart
Le Sans Sœur (assis) 7a wall, slopers, sitstart
Moonira 7a Pascal Etienne wall, crimps
Moonira (assis) 7a 7a+ Jérémy Lecouvert wall, crimps, sitstart
Orbital (assis) 7a Olivier Lebreton, Stéphan Denys slightly overhanging, bidoigts
Perle de Crête 1 7a Max, Gilles Cottray roof, sitstart
Potron-Minet 7a David Evrard wall, crimps, slopers
Quantum (assis) 7a 6c+ David Evrard wall, crimps, expo
Terrain Miné 7a Tony Fouchereau wall, crimps, slopers
Yin Yang 7a David Evrard prow, underclings, expo

6c+

Cryptographie (assis) 6c+ David Evrard slightly overhanging, sitstart, expo
Délit d'Oiseux 6c+ slightly overhanging, dyno, arete
La Petite Ardoise 6c+ David Evrard wall, crimps, high
Le Sans Sœur 6c+ Gilles Cottray wall, slopers
Réunion sans BG 6c+ Cedric Nasse, Véro P., Jeremie Dubois roof, sitstart

6c

Aux Berges des Vallées 6c 6c+ Gars Des Bois traverse frtl, slopers
Aux Berges des Vendées 6c 6c+ Gars Des Bois traverse fltr, slopers
Cécé 6c David Evrard wall, pockets, sitstart
Chi Mai 6c 7a David Evrard arete, sitstart, expo
Compassion 6c David Evrard wall, crimps, slopers
Cryptographie 6c Stéphan Denys, Philippe Dumez slightly overhanging, expo
Double T 6c David Evrard slightly overhanging, underclings, sitstart
Les Bassesses du Fort Homme 6c Gilles Cottray slightly overhanging, sitstart
Peau de Fleur 6c Hugo Cottray wall, crack, sitstart
Respiration 6c David Evrard slightly overhanging, crimps, sitstart
Réunion sans BD 6c Cedric Nasse, Véro P., Jeremie Dubois roof, sitstart
Triptyque 6c Damien Roguiez, Stéphan Denys wall, crimps, high
Trou de Mémoire 6c David Evrard wall, pockets, sitstart
Tzatziki 6c 6c+ David Evrard slightly overhanging, underclings, sitstart

6b+

Le Sans Sœur (gauche) 6b+ Gilles Cottray wall, slopers

6b

Le Bidon de GP 6b Hugo Cottray prow, sitstart
Mise en Route 6b David Evrard traverse frtl, slopers
Orbital 6b Stéphan Denys slightly overhanging, bidoigts
Peau de Fleur (gauche) 6b Hugo Cottray wall, crack, sitstart
Quantum 6b David Evrard wall, crimps, expo
Shikantaza 6b 6a+ David Evrard prow
Shikantaza (droite) 6b Pascal Etienne, Alexis Etienne wall

6a+

Absolument Toit 6a+ Ibrahim EL GUENNICH, Raphaël Menudier roof, mantle, sitstart
L'Arrêt du Fort Homme (rallongé) 6a+ Hugo Cottray arete, traverse fltr, sitstart
La Traversée du Belvédère 6a+ Pierre-Adrien Calbo, Richard Reggio traverse frtl, roof, sitstart

6a

L'Arrêt du Fort Homme 6a Hugo Cottray arete, sitstart
Nom d'Oiseux 6a Gilles Cottray arete, slightly overhanging

5+

Divagation 5+ Stéphan Denys, David Evrard slightly overhanging, traverse frtl, sitstart
La Moule Perlière (en traversée) 5+ Gilles Cottray traverse frtl, prow, slightly overhanging

5

La Moule Perlière 5 Gilles Cottray prow, slightly overhanging
Terrain Minable 5 Gilles Cottray wall, crack

5-

Pour les Chats Faux 5- Jean-Claude Valluet wall, crack

4+

Improvisation 4+ 5- David Evrard wall, slopers

3+

Audition 3+ David Evrard wall