Mare aux Joncs (Biological reserve)    

  • Author: Thierry Guéguen

Avoid leaving the paths and keep your dog on a leash from April to July.

Coquibus is an extremely sensitive area for several reasons and it must be protected. To do this, it is imperative to climb while limiting the impact on the environment as much as possible (brushing, magnesia, trampling the ground) in addition to the general recommendations on our ethics page.
This sector gathers a few difficult an isolated boulders located in plot 48 and 49, in the North-East part of the Coquibus area, in the North face under the plateau of La Mare aux Joncs. Those problems are accessible by Le Chemin du Petit Mont Rouget from the last parking lot before the motorway along the road from Courances to Arbonne.

Topos

8a

Trois Trous de Suspension 8a Christian Roumégoux roof

7c

Coup de Patte 7c 7c+ Thierry Plaud sitstart, overhang, dyno
Ghost Rider 7c Jan De Smit overhang
Le Prétexte 7c Jean-Baptiste Jourjon slightly overhanging, slopers
Le Tri-Phasé 7c 7c+ Christian Roumégoux roof, pockets

7b+

Arc Électrique 7b+ Yano Salaün overhang, sitstart
Infernal (direct) 7b+ 7b Yano Salaün wall, slopers
Lecture (assis) 7b+ Laurent Darlot wall, sitstart
Miladiou Connection 7b+ Tristoon Salson roof, pockets, traverse frtl

7b

Craô le Sage 7b Yano Salaün wall
Fest Deiz (assis) 7b Laurent Julien slightly overhanging, sitstart, high
Infernal (gauche) 7b 7b+ Yano Salaün wall, slopers
La Boucle du Jeu de Paume 7b Neil Hart, Gérald Coste, Tony Fouchereau loop, slightly overhanging, dyno
La Flèche Rouge 7b Jimmy Zwiebel prow, slopers, sitstart
Les Abstentionnistes 7b 7a+ Manuel Marquès slightly overhanging, mantle
Plasma 7b Yano Salaün roof, sitstart

7a+

Coup de Patate (assis) 7a+ Yano Salaün slightly overhanging, underclings, sitstart
Damned (assis) 7a+ Yano Salaün wall, arete, sitstart
Enfin! (rallongé) 7a+ Laurent Darlot slightly overhanging, slopers, sitstart
Imiter, C'est Limité 7a+ Christian Roumégoux roof, dyno
La Flèche Verte 7a+ Eric Allayaud prow, sitstart
Lecture 7a+ Laurent Darlot wall
Silly Cat 7a+ Yano Salaün roof, slab, sitstart

7a

Damned 7a Yano Salaün arete, wall, slopers
Émoticône 7a 6c+ Yano Salaün slightly overhanging, sitstart
Enfin! 7a Laurent Darlot slightly overhanging, slopers, sitstart
Fest Deiz 7a 7a+ Laurent Julien slightly overhanging, high
Fest Noz (assis) 7a Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart, high
Game of Throne 7a Yano Salaün prow, mantle
Le Jeu de Paume 7a 6c+ Christian Roumégoux slightly overhanging, dyno, sitstart
Rahan 7a Yano Salaün wall, crimps
Traoù Mad 7a Yano Salaün roof, wall, sitstart

6c+

Alors? (rallongé) 6c+ Laurent Darlot pockets, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Coucou Bernique (droite) 6c+ 7a Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, slab, sitstart
Coup de Patate 6c+ Yano Salaün slightly overhanging, underclings, crimps
Donc (rallongé) 6c+ Laurent Darlot pockets, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Fest Noz 6c+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, high
Fish & Chips (gauche) 6c+ Yano Salaün prow, arete, sitstart
- 6c+ Eric Allayaud wall, crimps, sitstart

6c

Alors? 6c Laurent Darlot, Christian Merimeche wall, crimps, sitstart
Bref... 6c Laurent Darlot traverse fltr, pockets, crack
Donc 6c Laurent Darlot, Christian Merimeche slightly overhanging, pockets, sitstart
Essor 6c Laurent Darlot slightly overhanging, slab, sitstart
Fish & Chips (droite) 6c Yano Salaün prow, arete, sitstart
Traoù Du 6c Yano Salaün slightly overhanging

6b+

Coucou Bernique 6b+ 6c Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart
Essor (gauche) 6b+ Laurent Darlot slightly overhanging, traverse frtl, sitstart
La Ligne Jaune 6b+ Jimmy Zwiebel prow, sitstart
- 6b+ 6c slightly overhanging

6b

Infernal (droite) 6b Yano Salaün wall, slab, slopers
Mare des Gens 6b Jimmy Zwiebel wall, overhang, sitstart

6a

La Belle Arête 6a Eric Allayaud arete, high
Le Beau Mur 6a wall, high

5

- 5 slab