Mare aux Joncs (Sensitive biological reserve)    

  • Author: Thierry Guéguen

Coquibus is a particular and very sensitive part of the forest which must be treated with the greatest respect by visitors. Its status as a biological reserve allows you to climb there but this could one day be called into question due to too many visitors or irresponsible behavior. We ask climbers to limit their presence or otherwise their impact in the different areas of Coquibus as much as possible. In particular, do not go in groups, do not climb after sunset and do not use electrical devices (drones, fans, radios, etc.). Reduce chalk to the strict minimum, erase all traces of your passage and finally do not brush new boulders. Avoid leaving the paths and keep your dog on a leash from April to July.

Please read our ethics page.
This sector gathers a few difficult an isolated boulders located in plot 48 and 49, in the North-East part of the Coquibus area, in the North face under the plateau of La Mare aux Joncs. Those problems are accessible by Le Chemin du Petit Mont Rouget from the last parking lot before the motorway along the road from Courances to Arbonne.

La Flèche Rouge 7b Jimmy Zwiebel prow, slopers, sitstart
Coup de Patte 7c 7c+ Thierry Plaud sitstart, overhang, dyno
Fest Deiz (assis) 7b Laurent Julien slightly overhanging, sitstart, high
Trois Trous de Suspension 8a Christian Roumégoux roof
Fest Noz (assis) 7a Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart, high
- 6c+ Eric Allayaud wall, crimps, sitstart
Coup de Patate (assis) 7a+ Yano Salaün slightly overhanging, underclings, sitstart
Le Beau Mur 6a wall, high
Infernal (direct) 7b+ 7b Yano Salaün wall, slopers
Fest Deiz 7a 7a+ Laurent Julien slightly overhanging, high
Le Jeu de Paume 7a 6c+ Christian Roumégoux slightly overhanging, dyno, sitstart
Le Tri-Phasé 7c 7c+ Christian Roumégoux roof, pockets
La Flèche Verte 7a+ Eric Allayaud prow, sitstart
Fest Noz 6c+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, high
Damned 7a Yano Salaün arete, wall, slopers
Les Abstentionnistes 7b 7a+ Manuel Marquès slightly overhanging, mantle
Ghost Rider 7c Jan De Smit overhang
La Boucle du Jeu de Paume 7b Neil Hart, Gérald Coste, Tony Fouchereau loop, slightly overhanging, dyno
Imiter, C'est Limité 7a+ Christian Roumégoux roof, dyno
Damned (assis) 7a+ Yano Salaün wall, arete, sitstart
Silly Cat 7a+ Yano Salaün roof, slab, sitstart
Fish & Chips (gauche) 6c+ Yano Salaün prow, arete, sitstart
Le Prétexte 7c Jean-Baptiste Jourjon slightly overhanging, slopers
Arc Électrique 7b+ Yano Salaün overhang, sitstart
Donc 6c Laurent Darlot, Christian Merimeche slightly overhanging, pockets, sitstart
- 5 slab
Fish & Chips (droite) 6c Yano Salaün prow, arete, sitstart
Coup de Patate 6c+ Yano Salaün slightly overhanging, underclings, crimps
Coucou Bernique (droite) 6c+ 7a Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, slab, sitstart
Plasma 7b Yano Salaün roof, sitstart
Rahan 7a Yano Salaün wall, crimps
Game of Throne 7a Yano Salaün prow, mantle
Enfin! 7a Laurent Darlot slightly overhanging, slopers, sitstart
Lecture 7a+ Laurent Darlot wall
Lecture (assis) 7b+ Laurent Darlot wall, sitstart
Traoù Mad 7a Yano Salaün roof, wall, sitstart
Enfin! (rallongé) 7a+ Laurent Darlot slightly overhanging, slopers, sitstart
Miladiou Connection 7b+ Tristoon Salson roof, pockets, traverse frtl
Coucou Bernique 6b+ 6c Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart
La Belle Arête 6a Eric Allayaud arete, high
Craô le Sage 7b Yano Salaün wall
Émoticône 7a 6c+ Yano Salaün slightly overhanging, sitstart
Infernal (gauche) 7b 7b+ Yano Salaün wall, slopers
Alors? 6c Laurent Darlot, Christian Merimeche wall, crimps, sitstart
Bref... 6c Laurent Darlot traverse fltr, pockets, crack
- 6b+ 6c slightly overhanging
Traoù Du 6c Yano Salaün slightly overhanging
Infernal (droite) 6b Yano Salaün wall, slab, slopers
Alors? (rallongé) 6c+ Laurent Darlot pockets, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Donc (rallongé) 6c+ Laurent Darlot pockets, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Essor 6c Laurent Darlot slightly overhanging, slab, sitstart
Essor (gauche) 6b+ Laurent Darlot slightly overhanging, traverse frtl, sitstart
La Ligne Jaune 6b+ Jimmy Zwiebel prow, sitstart
Mare des Gens 6b Jimmy Zwiebel wall, overhang, sitstart