Focus 7b 7b+ Côtes de Courances (Sensitive biological reserve)

roof, slightly overhanging, arete

Coquibus is a particular and very sensitive part of the forest which must be treated with the greatest respect by visitors. Its status as a biological reserve allows you to climb there but this could one day be called into question due to too many visitors or irresponsible behavior. We ask climbers to limit their presence or otherwise their impact in the different areas of Coquibus as much as possible. In particular, do not go in groups, do not climb after sunset and do not use electrical devices (drones, fans, radios, etc.). Reduce chalk to the strict minimum, erase all traces of your passage and finally do not brush new boulders. Avoid leaving the paths and keep your dog on a leash from April to July.

Right problem in a big overhanging boulder on the plateau. Sitstart in the roof as for Spécimen (the holds may remain humid) but exit 3m to the right.

  • Access
  • Average rating
  • 4.2 Stars
  • (6 total)
  • Given grades
  • 7b: 33.3%
  • (6 total)
Right line on the photo
Starts at 00:00
Climber: Manuel Marquès
More
hi mate - Anonymous (08-12-2009 20:31)
for focus, you take the asphalted road. when it turns left, go right in the forest, in a kind of valley. follow it, climb the hill straight ahead the easiest way (no path). when you are at the crest follow it to your right. you may find a first green wall and focus is behind this one. i would say 50 to 100m behind this.
focus is easy to recognize. there is a little cave under the boulder. the start is always wet i think. i tried it in july during a really dry period and it was wet but still climbable. with my friend we find it really weird, uncomfortable and hard. maybe we were donkeys this day!

i would advice you to try to find feist dez, 7a 5 stars problem sit start thuggy on slopers then pinch, slopers and slap to the left. moreover itis fairly high. on the same boulder to the let there is another crimpy 7a sitstart. we hadn't try it. looks nice however.

see you soon
hi mate - Anonymous (08-12-2009 20:34)
for focus, you take the asphalted road. when it turns left, go right in the forest, in a kind of valley. follow it, climb the hill straight ahead the easiest way (no path). when you are at the crest follow it to your right. you may find a first green wall and focus is behind this one. i would say 50 to 100m behind this.
focus is easy to recognize. there is a little cave under the boulder. the start is always wet i think. i tried it in july during a really dry period and it was wet but still climbable. with my friend we find it really weird, uncomfortable and hard. maybe we were donkeys this day!

i would advice you to try to find feist dez, 7a 5 stars problem sit start thuggy on slopers then pinch, slopers and slap to the left. moreover itis fairly high. on the same boulder to the let there is another crimpy 7a sitstart. we hadn't try it. looks nice however.

see you soon
were is it - Anonymous (08-12-2009 19:02)
I tried to find this bouder today, can anybody help me???????


were is it, the description on how to get there is pretty bad
cheers nico - Anonymous (09-12-2009 00:56)
I went to the turn, but went left up there found some stuff, shame. looked around for ages but did not find it, I will try next rainy day to find it. Everything was wet today so went to rubis
hi neil - nico5 (09-12-2009 10:24)
quite hard to find indeed. we were two to find it so it was far easy than for you alone.
i will climb surely on wednesday afternoon. if it's really dry, i will try to complete la mouche, otherwise rubis sur l'ongle or rempart (watch tower, noir désir).
i ll text you friday morning if it is dry and where you are going to climb.

see you