Montrouget Est (Sensitive biological reserve)    

  • Author: Thierry Guéguen

Coquibus is a particular and very sensitive part of the forest which must be treated with the greatest respect by visitors. Its status as a biological reserve allows you to climb there but this could one day be called into question due to too many visitors or irresponsible behavior. We ask climbers to limit their presence or otherwise their impact in the different areas of Coquibus as much as possible. In particular, do not go in groups, do not climb after sunset and do not use electrical devices (drones, fans, radios, etc.). Reduce chalk to the strict minimum, erase all traces of your passage and finally do not brush new boulders. Avoid leaving the paths and keep your dog on a leash from April to July.

Please read our ethics page.
On the road from Courances to Arbonne, leave your car at the first parking to the right when entering the Bois du Coquibus. Take Le Chemin de la Ferme du Montrouget, turn left till the Chemin des Arcades, and continue on a small path to the South between Montrouget and point "97" on the IGN map, with Figure de Style. The main sector is 150m away (with an evident "big nose"), before reaching Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne.
Other access: from the next parking, take the Chemin des Côtes de de Courances (parcelle 37), cross the Chemin des Arcades (white markings), turn right on the GR 11 (Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne). The sector is 150m to the right.


Plastique Fantastik (retour-aller) 7c+ 8a Jean-Christophe Guibout traverse, slopers
Zone Interdite 7c+ Jérôme Ceccaldi sitstart, roof, crack


La Raie Formée (assis) 7c Olivier Lebreton arete, sitstart
Plat Plat Plat 7c 7b+ GJou prow, sitstart


Final Fantasy (direct) 7b+ 7b GJou arete, dyno, sitstart
High Liner 7b+ 7c Gilles Cottray overhang, sitstart
L'Angluée (assis) 7b+ GJou prow, sitstart
Pas Vu Pas Pris 7b+ ⋅∴⋅ roof, traverse fltr
Plastique Fantastik 7b+ Thierry Guéguen traverse fltr, slopers


Figure de Style 7b Jérôme Ceccaldi sitstart, roof
Fraîcheur d'Été 7b GJou roof, sitstart
Gibbon de Paris 7b Frédéric Buc roof, traverse fltr, crack
Silicon Carne 7b Andrej Bolán traverse fltr, crimps
Toit Toit Toit 7b 7a+ GJou roof, sitstart


Cham'Adore (assis) 7a+ ⋅∴⋅ crack, arete, sitstart
Grottesque 7a+ Frédéric Buc roof, crack
L'Angluée (direct) 7a+ 7b arete, dyno
Le Smile 7a+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart


Crack Liner 7a Joris Robyn crack, slightly overhanging, sitstart
L'Angluée 7a Frédéric Buc prow, slightly overhanging
La Raie Formée 7a Frédéric Buc crack
Le Sale Bouleau (assis) 7a 7a+ wall, crimps, sitstart


Au Pied Levé 6c+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray sitstart, traverse fltr, belly
Final Fantasy 6c+ Frédéric Buc arete, sitstart
Le Sale Bouleau 6c+ 7a Pascal Etienne wall, crimps, slopers
Tenochtitlan 6c+ 7a David Evrard slightly overhanging, expo


Dichotomie 6c Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall, crimps
Fécondité 6c 6b Alexis Etienne, Pascal Etienne wall
L'Arête du Bouleau (assis) 6c Frédéric Buc arete, sitstart
Pas de Baggy Baggy 6c Frédéric Buc sitstart, arete
Toipéro 6c Jimmy Zwiebel prow, roof, sitstart
Tzompantli 6c David Evrard, Stéphan Denys wall, expo


Le Nez Faste 6b+ 6c Frédéric Buc wall
Lèvre de Feu 6b+ Frédéric Buc sitstart, crack, wall
Remontée Gastrique 6b+ Frédéric Buc sitstart, slightly overhanging


Chihuahua 6b 6c David Evrard, Stéphan Denys, Olivier Lebreton traverse frtl, sitstart
Face et Scie 6b Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall
Faut Pas Poucer 6b Frédéric Buc wall
Yucatan 6b David Evrard, Stéphan Denys, Olivier Lebreton wall, sitstart


Bonne Mine 6a+ Frédéric Buc arete
Jet de Lame 6a+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray sitstart, wall
L'Arête du Bouleau 6a+ Frédéric Buc arete, underclings, mantle


Calaveras 6a 6b wall
Cham'Adore 6a ⋅∴⋅ crack
L'Angle Grottesque 6a Frédéric Buc arete
L'Arête des Pavés 6a Pascal Etienne, Pepito arete
- 6a Frédéric Buc slopers, mantle


Veracruz 5+ 6a David Evrard, Stéphan Denys, Olivier Lebreton wall, sitstart


La Dalle Gluante 5 Frédéric Buc slab
La Fissure du Bouleau 5 5+ wall, crack


- 5- slab
- 5- Frédéric Buc wall


- 4+ Frédéric Buc wall, slab
- 4+ wall


- 4- wall, slab


- 3+ crack