Double Détente 7a+ 7b Mont Pivot

Olivier Lebreton
surplomb, départ assis

50m en contrebas de Belle Gueule. Partir assis sous le surplomb et sortir en utilisant une prise intermédiaire ou directement par un grand mouvement dynamique (7a+ morpho).

  • Appréciation
  • 3,3 Étoiles
  • (62 au total)
  • Évaluation
  • 6c+: 1,4%
  • 7a: 15,3%
  • 7a+: 54,2%
  • 7b: 23,6%
  • 7b+: 2,8%
  • 7c: 2,8%
  • (72 au total)
Grimpeur: Arnaud Binet
Grimpeur: Filip Notebaert
Commence à 02:52
Grimpeur: BlocBusters Bouldering
Double detente au mont pivot - VIOLET philippe (08-12-2003 20:27)
hello, c'était pour savoir ce qu'est la methode en 7a+ du bloc.
d'ou ça part?
merci
bonne grimpe
double detente - djedman (12-12-2003 17:51)
ça part au fond du devers avec des gros bacs (trous ?) puis si tu est assez grand pour faire la version en 7a+ tu prend une reglette main gauche pas trop mauvaise te avec un pied (droit?) assez bas tu jettes main droite sur la grosse rampe

yo - VIOLET (16-12-2003 20:13)
merci, ben j'ai fait le 7c c'est cool! c'est pas très dur je pense.
by
a l'aide - Anonymous (14-08-2005 17:13)
donc quelle est la version en 7c??
7a+ dyno ? - Anonymous (16-01-2006 17:00)
Does this mean that the 7a+ version is the one where you jump with your hands on the right and left edge straight to the top and that the 7c version is the one where you have the sitstart deep in the hole followed by that dynamic move ??
jojo
ik denk - Anonymous (18-01-2006 10:53)
Infact when you start deep on two sidepulls and do the dyno than you have 7c,and when you do the direct version what means start whit two hands on the two crimpers and do the dyno of the 7c version its 7a+!see you soon.
jaja
Still don't get it - Anonymous (08-06-2006 20:47)
Hi guys,

I still don't get it. According to the 7+8 guide the 7a+ is the jump start. This can't be right, because jumping of the ground straight to the jug is a 6a (even when your little) at most. According to you guys it seems that the 7a+ is jumping from the two edges to the top and starting on the side pulls is 7c. This is hard to believe, because the difference between the two (one) move from the side pulls to the edges are very easy. These moves cannot add over 2 graqdes to the problem. Hope anyone can explain.

Victor
maybe - Anonymous (09-06-2006 01:54)
i'm not sure but i see a kind of explanation t this variant. near the sidepull, you can get an undercling and another hold that i have forget. for the 7a+ means that you start as in my method put your feet on the boulder and jump to the jug. but this is my opinion that needed to be confirmed.
doubts - Anonymous (09-06-2006 15:31)
I have doubts about the grades as well. In my opinion:

Jump start = 6a
Start at undercling and dyno = 6c
Start from the two edges and dyno = 7a+
Start at side pulls, go to the two edges and dyno = 7b
Start at side pulls, go to the undercling and dyno = I didn`t try, but I gues 7a

greetz Jaap
no way 7c - Anonymous (21-12-2006 22:03)
we did this problem starting sitting at the juggy sidepulls, via the edges this is about 7a+ or even 7a. To put it into context i flashed this problem and then failed to climb Belle Gueule on the same day!

After this we even tried dynoing straight out from the starting jugs to the ledge (eliminating the edges) and this would still only be about 7bish, its more scary than hard. I don't see any way you could get a 7c out of this problem, unless a really bad sequence is used. its a great 7a+ problem.