Rocher de Milly (Biological reserve)    

  • Author: Gars Des Bois

Avoid leaving the paths and keep your dog on a leash from April to July.

Between Arbonne and Achères-la-Forêt, take on the left the road towards the monument to the memory of the Resistance fighters and park the car at the parking lot of Chanfroy (don't let anything in the cars!) Follow La Route de la Plaine de Chanfroy (which becomes La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau) for 2km. The circuits can be found on the slope and isolated boulders above La Route du Liteau.


Le Grand Kraken 8a Manuel Marquès traverse, roof


Bas-Bush 7c+ 7c Stéphan Denys slightly overhanging, sitstart
Le Sanglier Arverne 7c+ Pascal Thomas slightly overhanging, sitstart


Entrailles 7c Kevin Lopata roof, mantle
Le Dolmen du Divin 7c Thierry Guéguen roof, mantle
Le Kraken 7c C. Pas 7a, François-Xavier Joubert, Tony Fouchereau slightly overhanging, dyno, slopers
Le Kraken (droite) 7c Manuel Marquès roof, crimps, dyno
Le Kraken (gauche) 7c 7b+ Manuel Marquès slightly overhanging, slopers, sitstart
Le Sanglier d'Érythème 7c 7c+ Thierry Guéguen, Arnaud Ceintre traverse fltr
Léviathan (rallongé par le haut) 7c Manuel Marquès slightly overhanging, traverse frtl, sitstart
Technicus 7c Manuel Marquès wall, slopers, expo
Toundra (assis) 7c Guillaume Joubert prow, sitstart


Antinéa 7b+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart
Exquise Esquisse 7b+ Thierry Guéguen, Kevin Lopata slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart
Léviathan (rallongé par le bas) 7b+ 7c Manuel Marquès arete, slightly overhanging, traverse frtl
Steppe (assis) 7b+ 7c Guillaume Joubert pillar, sitstart


Brutus 7b 7b+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart
Groin-Groin (gauche) 7b Pascal Thomas slightly overhanging, sitstart
La Galerie s'Amuse 7b 7b+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, crimps
Le Chevillard 7b 7b+ Kevin Lopata slightly overhanging, sitstart, bidoigts
Le Dolmen des Nains 7b 7b+ Edouard de Nijs roof, mantle
Les Météores 7b Frank Scherrer prow, expo
Mongolie 7b 7b+ Laurent Darlot traverse fltr, mantle, sitstart
Steppe 7b Guillaume Joubert slightly overhanging
Toundra 7b 7b+ Guillaume Joubert prow


Bon Œil 7a+ 7b Thierry Guéguen sitstart, slightly overhanging
Grince Dedans 7a+ Kevin Lopata slightly overhanging, sitstart
Groin-Groin 7a+ 7b Stéphan Denys slightly overhanging, sitstart
Philae 7a+ David Evrard arete
Punchy 7a+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart


Bon Pied 7a 7a+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart
Caramba! 7a 6c+ Philippe Dumez slightly overhanging, sitstart
Le Calamar Géant 7a 7a+ Tony Fouchereau roof, mantle, sitstart
Les Météores (en traversée) 7a 7a+ David Evrard, Gérald Coste wall, prow, expo
Léviathan 7a Yano Salaün arete, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Nomade 7a Laurent Darlot wall, sitstart
Noodle 7a 7a+ David Evrard wall, sitstart
Trouble Forestier (gauche) 7a 6c+ Laurent Darlot wall, crimps, sitstart


La Peur du Kraken 6c+ 7a Tony Fouchereau slightly overhanging, traverse fltr, sitstart
Steppe (assis direct) 6c+ Manuel Marquès slightly overhanging, sitstart


Chauffe 6c Philippe Dumez, Stéphan Denys wall
Cold Turkey 6c arete, sitstart
Trouble Forestier 6c 6b+ Laurent Darlot wall, mantle, sitstart


Travelling 6b+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart
Wahou 6b+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart
Wahou (gauche) 6b+ belly


Comète 6b David Evrard wall, sitstart
Namaya 6b 6c Stéphan Denys, Gérald Coste, Tony Fouchereau wall, slab
- 6b arete


Léviathan (gauche) 6a+ Gérald Coste, Tony Fouchereau slightly overhanging, wall, sitstart


Cool, une Dalle! 5+ 6a Philippe Dumez slab
Grand Rien 5+ Thierry Guéguen slab
Petit Quelque Chose 5+ Thierry Guéguen slab


Le Pilier du Namaya 5 5+ Stéphan Denys wall
Nomade (direct) 5 wall, mantle, sitstart


Le Dièdre Vert (assis) 5- crack, mantle


Le Dièdre Vert 4+ crack, mantle


- 4 wall


Ta Vraiment Kraken 3 3+ wall, slab


Ta Kraken 2 Gérald Coste, Tony Fouchereau crack, wall