Rocher de Milly (Biological reserve)    

  • Author: Gars Des Bois

Avoid leaving the paths and keep your dog on a leash from April to July.

Between Arbonne and Achères-la-Forêt, take on the left the road towards the monument to the memory of the Resistance fighters and park the car at the parking lot of Chanfroy (don't let anything in the cars!) Follow La Route de la Plaine de Chanfroy (which becomes La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau) for 2km. The circuits can be found on the slope and isolated boulders above La Route du Liteau.

Topos

A

Antinéa 7b+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart

B

Bas-Bush 7c Stéphan Denys slightly overhanging, sitstart
Bon Œil 7a+ 7b Thierry Guéguen sitstart, slightly overhanging
Bon Pied 7a 7a+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart
Brutus 7b 7b+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart

C

Caramba! 7a 6c+ Philippe Dumez slightly overhanging, sitstart
Chauffe 6c Philippe Dumez, Stéphan Denys wall
Cold Turkey 6c arete, sitstart
Comète 6b David Evrard wall, sitstart
Cool, une Dalle! 5+ 6a Philippe Dumez slab

E

Entrailles 7c Kevin Lopata roof, mantle
Exquise Esquisse 7b+ Thierry Guéguen, Kevin Lopata slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart

G

Grand Rien 5+ Thierry Guéguen slab
Grince Dedans 7a+ Kevin Lopata slightly overhanging, sitstart
Groin-Groin 7a+ 7b Stéphan Denys slightly overhanging, sitstart
Groin-Groin (gauche) 7b Pascal Thomas slightly overhanging, sitstart

L

La Galerie s'Amuse 7b 7b+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, crimps
La Peur du Kraken 6c+ 7a Tony Fouchereau slightly overhanging, traverse fltr, sitstart
Le Calamar Géant 7a 7a+ Tony Fouchereau roof, mantle, sitstart
Le Chevillard 7b 7b+ Kevin Lopata slightly overhanging, sitstart, bidoigts
Le Dièdre Vert 4+ crack, mantle
Le Dièdre Vert (assis) 5- crack, mantle
Le Dolmen des Nains 7b 7b+ Edouard de Nijs roof, mantle
Le Dolmen du Divin 7c Thierry Guéguen roof, mantle
Le Grand Kraken 8a Manuel Marquès traverse, roof
Le Kraken 7c C. Pas 7a, François-Xavier Joubert, Tony Fouchereau slightly overhanging, dyno, slopers
Le Kraken (droite) 7c Manuel Marquès roof, crimps, dyno
Le Kraken (gauche) 7c 7b+ Manuel Marquès slightly overhanging, slopers, sitstart
Le Pilier du Namaya 5 5+ Stéphan Denys wall
Le Sanglier Arverne 7c+ Pascal Thomas slightly overhanging, sitstart
Le Sanglier d'Érythème 7c 7c+ Thierry Guéguen, Arnaud Ceintre traverse fltr
Les Météores 7b Frank Scherrer prow, expo
Les Météores (en traversée) 7a 7a+ David Evrard, Gérald Coste wall, prow, expo
Léviathan 7a Yano Salaün arete, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Léviathan (gauche) 6a+ Gérald Coste, Tony Fouchereau slightly overhanging, wall, sitstart
Léviathan (rallongé par le bas) 7b+ 7c Manuel Marquès arete, slightly overhanging, traverse frtl
Léviathan (rallongé par le haut) 7c Manuel Marquès slightly overhanging, traverse frtl, sitstart

N

Namaya 6b 6c Stéphan Denys, Gérald Coste, Tony Fouchereau wall, slab
Noodle 7a 7a+ David Evrard wall, sitstart

P

Petit Quelque Chose 5+ Thierry Guéguen slab
Philae 7a+ David Evrard arete
Punchy 7a+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart

T

Ta Kraken 2 Gérald Coste, Tony Fouchereau crack, wall
Ta Vraiment Kraken 3 3+ wall, slab
Technicus 7c Manuel Marquès wall, slopers, expo
Travelling 6b+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart

W

Wahou 6b+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, sitstart
Wahou (gauche) 6b+ belly

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- 6b arete
- 4 wall