Standing start (+ how many crash pads) ? - Anyone concerned (11-03-2004 19:08)
"Easy" for tall guys who can take directly from ground left hand crimp (the one he holds left). I personally did it that way (I'm tall) and sounds indeed 7a like that. For shorter people, it's another problem...unless you add as many crash pads as necessary to take it.

Problem is still the same with downgrading when boulders are done differently than originally. That one is a good example, another good example is "Mur Lombard" at Franchard Hautes plaines whether you start from a crash pad or really from ground : not at all the same difficulty.

Lastly we've seen a downgrade "campaign" for many problems. I've seen videos of "La memel" and "Les monos". Quite funny ! For sure these problems are respectively 6c+ and 6a for those who are on videos tending to the giant human beeing. No way to compare with "standart-sized" climbers. So please, giants, don't downgrade too fast, think about shorter people.

hehe! - Anonymous (10-04-2009 00:50)
tout le monde le sais : les suedois sont des tapettes blondes qui ne savent pas arquer une reglette! genre ouille aie! ca fait mal ouinnn! oh mummy..!

Is it a sit start? - Olivier (02-03-2004 13:38)
Otherwise its more like 7a.

sittstart? - simon (03-03-2004 15:42)
yeah it feelt more like 7a whit a standup!

sittstart?? - Anonymous (09-03-2004 12:35)
fuck yeah! more like a Swedish 6c+

beta? - J.P (11-03-2004 18:16)
Maybe you guys can share some beta then? (since I still haven´t managed to drag my ass up the damn thing...) I find it guite hard to fall into the left hand crimp (the one he holds with left hand on picture.

standing (but low start) - J.P (12-03-2004 14:22)
Ok, if starting from that crimp I can understand the downgrading. But I must honestly say that the line has a natural low start. My friends (who did the problem) agreed on that the boulder starts low and that the crux was indeed finding the balance to fall into the left hand crimp. Reaching/jumping for higher holds or standing on multiple mats doesn´t downgrade a problem, only the style in wich you execute it :-)

low start - Anonymous (27-03-2004 12:35)
I also did the low hand start and i can agree that part of the crux was getting the left hand to the hold he has on the picture.

no way! - Brownie (27-09-2004 02:13)
I did it sittstart and I think its more like swedish 7a+ with att sittstart! You guys suck on crimpers!

Christer - Anonymous (07-11-2005 09:50)
Thank you guys for making us Swedes look like rude A***oles.

jumpstart? - Anonymous (10-08-2006 16:41)
next week i was there and i took the good richthand crimper and put me left feet on the good foothold and do a precise coordinated jump to the bad lefthand crimper and hold on to it .my question is if this methode is also tolerated? I'm1.79m.

greetz
jan

Nope! - Anonymous (10-08-2006 17:38)
No jumpstart in Mur du Son if you want to do the 7c version. The crux is to paste both feet on the wall and then make a dynamic move to the crimper on the left. I think this is a perfect 7c whatever some Swedes have to say about it.

I agree - Anonymous (21-02-2007 12:36)
with bart. the crux for me was to paste myself on the wall in the first place. getting that left crimper is easier if you have your left foot already up (requires good hip flexibility maybe). and I agree with brownie: if you suck on crimpers, you will have a hard time!

hoho - Le suédois (10-04-2009 14:01)
L'orthographe rime-t-il avec humour?
Voici un rappel de réglettes de français.
En tout cas, en Suède, nous avons avons de bonnes écoles et nous savons qu'une phrase commence avec une majuscule, que le sujet de "sais" est "le monde" donc "il" et doit prendre un t.
Enfin le mur du son est, en effet, franchi dans ta première phrase avec un accent manquant à "suedois et reglette" et à ta dernière phrase avec la cédille manquante à "ca".
Ceci est pour sûr de l'humour suédois.
Un suédois

gluken... - yorg bjon slosrhgl (10-04-2009 15:32)
kick et schluck ?

mec ! - le frère de mon frère... (10-04-2009 15:38)
mon frère mec ; 6b mec !
ok, il est suédois mec mon frère. alors ok il prend pas la réglette du bas en main gauche mec ; mais mon frère, il l'a quand même sorti mec !
en tout cas il a mis son nom et il s'est pas posé la question de savoir si c'était pas lui qui se trompait. mec mon frère, c'est un ouf.
il est chaud,
MAIS SURTOUT il croit qu'il trop fort pour ce bloc, que c'est qu'un pauvre 6b alors qu'en fait, mec, mon frère c'est juste un gogol qu'a rien compris...
et ouais mec.

I agree with Bart - Anonymous (12-11-2011 20:14)
I also agree with Bart, the crux is getting into the left hand crimp from with your left hand of the low crimp and right-hand on the pinch. The right foot starts smeared on a small edge to the right, you the need to pull on, get your foot up into the pocket and find the balance to fall onto the left high crimp.

no hard feelings - Anonymous (11-08-2006 13:45)
Hallo bart ,
Ik weet dat de logische start met twee voetjes op de muur niet gemakkelijk is ,verre van zelfs! Maar de jumpstart met linkervoet op de muur en rechter startcrimper in rechterhand is volgens mij alleen een verschil in beweging maar toch niet in moeilijkheid!De beweging is ook dynamisch met veel coordinatie en concentratie! Op de moment als je start ben je toch ook met twee voetn van de gron? Heeft zelfs niets te maken met wat de zweden duidelijk willen maken.Een vriend van mij kan ook aan de slechte linker crimper staant vanop de grond maar weet ook dat dit niet de juiste manier is om deze mooie lijn te klimmen.Ik denk dat het evenveel moeite kost om de twee methodes van elkaar gescheiden onder de knie te krijgen .
Zonder slechte bedoelingen

groeten
jan