Roche qui Tourne (Biological reserve)    

  • Author: Thierry Guéguen
  • Author: Thierry Guéguen
  • Author: Thierry Guéguen

Avoid leaving the paths and keep your dog on a leash from April to July.

From Paris, take the exit Milly-la-Forêt on the motorway, then the D372 in direction of Milly, turn left at an unpaved road to the opposite of Courances, and park the car at Le Carrefour de Montignotte. Follow the GR which turns right at a barrier; the sector is on the left of the path after a bend to the left and another one to the right. The first boulders can be seen after hives and those of La Montignotte are just on the other side of the path.

Topos

8a

Pagota 8a 7c+ David Graham, Jos Leenen roof, sitstart

7c+

Maître à Tribord 7c+ Thierry Guéguen overhang, slopers, dyno
Senseï 7c+ Thierry Plaud roof, sitstart

7b+

Pied au Piège 7b+ Guillaume Joubert roof

7b

Dos Extra Fin 7b Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray traverse fltr, roof, arete
Tournez Manège 7b Guillaume Joubert roof
Turbo Pascal 7b Fred dyno

7a+

Bauge Est 7a+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray overhang
Claquettes 7a+ Frédéric Buc overhang, arete, sitstart
L'Aller de la Chenille 7a+ 7b Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray traverse frtl, roof, slopers

7a

Beau d'Ruche 7a Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray pillar, sitstart, crimps
Con Torsion (assis) 7a 7a+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray slightly overhanging, underclings, sitstart
Crispettes et Chuintements 7a Gilles Cottray, Frédéric Buc wall
Dos Fin 7a Frédéric Buc wall, roof, sitstart
La Chenille 7a Frédéric Buc sitstart, roof, slopers
Rétatouille 7a 7a+ Frédéric Buc dyno, mantle
Sahara 7a 7a+ Thierry Plaud roof, sitstart
Soue Pire 7a Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray traverse fltr

6c+

Bras Long 6c+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray slightly overhanging, crimps
L'Écart y Est (assis) 6c+ Frank Bogerman arete, sitstart

6c

Bonjour Aaron 6c Wulf Schneider wall, dyno, sitstart
Craquettes 6c Pascal Etienne, Pepito slightly overhanging, crimps
Dos Cille 6c Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray roof, wall, slopers
Gaine de Voyou 6c Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray pillar, sitstart
Le Sol est Terre 6c Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray traverse frtl
Le Tourne Roche 6c Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray traverse fltr, roof, wall
Pythagoras 6c Jos Leenen traverse fltr, slopers, sitstart
Talon Haut 6c Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray arete
Ventre Bleu 6c Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray arete, belly, sitstart

6b+

Dos Miné 6b+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray sitstart, wall
Hole of Luck 6b+ Jos Leenen, Duncan Sewing roof, sitstart
Objectif Nul 6b+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall, dyno

6b

Belle de Jour 6b Pepito wall, sitstart
Coin Perdu 6b prow, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Con Torsion 6b Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall, underclings
L'Ami Daniel 6b Pepito traverse frtl, wall, underclings
L'Insignifiant 6b Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall, sitstart
L'Un Posé 6b 6b+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall
La Crantée (droite) 6b 6a+ Gars Des Bois, Fred arete
La Fissure de la Douleur 6b 6c Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray crack
Le Trou Perdu 6b Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall, pockets, sitstart
Zip 6b Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray slab

6a+

L'Écart y Est 6a+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray arete
L'Idée Hâle 6a+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall
L'Ovale 6a+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray traverse fltr, wall
La Corne qui Touche 6a+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray sitstart, slightly overhanging, wall
La Faille 6a+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray traverse fltr

6a

Cloquettes 6a 6b wall, crimps, sitstart
La Ronde 6a Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall
Nivelator 6a Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray slab
Pauvre Pareur 6a Jos Leenen, Ronald de Backere slab
Petite Proue 6a 6a+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray prow, sitstart
Reach Out 6a Ronald de Backere, Wouter van der Baan slab
The Bout 6a Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall, sitstart
Trahison 6a traverse
Zape 6a Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray slab

5+

L'Insoumise 5+ slab
La Crantée 5+ Gars Des Bois, Fred arete
La Torsade 5+ Pepito
Le Bêtisier 5+ Pepito traverse fltr
Le Nez 5+ Holger May, Reik Heinrich overhang, sitstart
Le Pas de Cinq 5+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray pillar, arete
Les Écritures 5+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall, underclings
- 5+ 6a Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray
- 5+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray sitstart, slightly overhanging
- 5+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray sitstart, wall, underclings

5

La Dalle à Plats 5 Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray slab
Le Trou de la Douleur 5 5+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall
Piperade 5 Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray underclings, slightly overhanging
Variance 5 Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray slab, arete
Warm Up 5 Jos Leenen crack
- 5 Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall, pillar
- 5 Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray pillar
- 5 Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray pillar

5-

Cliquettes 5- Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall, crimps
Crucherie 5- Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray pillar
La Fissure aux Abeilles 5- Olivier Cazeaux, Pascal Ménard crack
- 5- Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray slab

4+

La Bêtise 4+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall
- 4+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray slab

4

La Fissure qui Tourne 4 Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall, crimps, crack
Le Ventre qui Tourne 4 Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall, belly
- 4 Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray slab

3

La Fissure de l'Abri 3 crack