Pagota 8a 7c+ Roche qui Tourne (Réserve biologique sensible)

toit, départ assis

Le Coquibus est un massif particulier et très sensible qui doit faire l'objet du plus grand respect de la part des visiteurs. Son statut de réserve biologique autorise d'y grimper mais cela pourrait être un jour remis en question du fait d'une trop grande fréquentation ou de comportements irresponsables. Nous demandons aux grimpeurs de limiter au maximum leur présence ou sinon leur impact dans les différents secteurs du Coquibus. En particulier, ne venez pas en groupe, ne grimpez pas après le coucher du soleil et n'utilisez pas d'appareils électriques (drones, ventilateurs, radios...) Réduisez la magnésie au strict minimum, effacez toute trace de votre passage et enfin ne brossez pas de nouveau passage. Evitez de pénétrer dans les sous-bois et tenez votre chien en laisse d'avril à juillet.

N°1 du topo du secteur Pagota. Partir assis, remonter le surplomb, aller chercher l'arête de droite et sortir au niveau de la proue. Une version directe est également possible.

  • Accès
  • Appréciation
  • 4,3 Étoiles
  • (106 au total)
  • Évaluation
  • 8a: 78,9%
  • (109 au total)
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soucis - Anonymous (23-08-2007 11:54)
il n'y a pas un probleme avec "la cotation des repetiteurs"? 8c ca se serait...
pagota - Christian (24-08-2007 11:25)
Le bloc est effectivement dans les 8a à confirmer bien sûr.
Bon courage
Neil , You're right ! - snake (27-09-2008 00:06)
Take care getting there, lot of vipers !
blind ? - the watch tower (24-11-2009 20:19)
you have a video of vincent pochon on the page
where is it ? - fabrizio (06-03-2005 22:01)
nice topo, but where is it? i didnt find out which parking place is meant with the "p" on the map !
which parking - Anonymous (08-03-2005 15:48)
Use the same parking as for the other area's in roche qui tourne.
Look at our other topo named parcelle 7+ 8. The road is indicated on that map.

cheers,
Jos

Waouhh - (12-03-2005 01:17)
Jos is still alive...
wrong way? - Anonymous (02-07-2008 16:03)
Hello. I tried pagota on april 08, nice one, but i did it with dyno to the left arete, and after ascent i found theese pics, where Jos uses right arete, so what is the original way for 8a?
re: wrong way? - Anonymous (02-07-2008 16:43)
The original way uses the right arete,
To get it is the hardest move of the boulder.

????????? - Anonymous (24-09-2008 17:58)
I went there today to try and find this boulder I spent 2 hours with no success

Can anyone tell me how to get to it?

I used the 7+8 topo and the topo on here..........
Directions - Anonymous (24-09-2008 18:24)
From the main area Roche qui Tourne, follow the piste cavalière (sandy horse track) to the east (up and down a hill). Keep following this path untill it makes a sharp bend to the right. Turn left here and you will find a ridge. Climb down the ridge, Pagota is on the north side of a boulder just down the ridge. But this information is the same as in my guidebook...
any idea - Anonymous (24-09-2008 18:51)
Cheers bart i followed your instructions to the letter but no joy I have drawn a map the red bits show were i looked can you make any sense of it http://www.maisonbleau.com/map.htm

any idea - Anonymous (24-09-2008 18:53)
Cheers bart i followed your instructions to the letter but no joy I have drawn a map the red bits show were i looked can you make any sense of it http://www.maisonbleau.com/map.htm

@ Neil - Anonymous (25-09-2008 02:15)
Hi Neil, I'm not Bart, but maybe I can help you out.
Take the piste cavaliere to the top of the hill, continue untill the path turns right, there you turn left on a small track which leeds you to the ridge. Search a bit where to downclimb the ridge, there is a small (not evident) path going down. Below the ridge turn right on a small path alongside the ridge. After about 80m the path turns diagonally down leaving the ridge to level in about 20m distance. After another 80m you'll find a few climbable boulders. Pagota is in the middle of them, on the rightside of the path. So I guess the boulder is on the top left side of your drawing. Happy hunting.
cheers, Jos
Directions - Anonymous (25-09-2008 11:14)
I agree with the directions Jos has written; Pagota must be at the top left side of your drawing. But I think to remember the distance from the ridge to Pagota is less than 80 metres. Hope you will find it next time!
cheers - Anonymous (25-09-2008 11:29)
thanks jos and bart I will go back today.

i looked all down that ridge, I must have been so close to it, I droped of the ridge on a very faint sort of track down to a very faint path, but then searched and searched

I was getting a little scared as there were lots of angre snakes down there,


I will let you know how i get on, going back today
videoclip - Wolfgang (24-11-2009 14:53)
I would like to watch some clips.