Modulor 7b+ Franchard Sablons

Stéphan Denys
surplomb, proue

Sur l'envers du bloc du n°12 bleu, en départ bas (départ accroupi en 7c+).

  • Appréciation
  • 4,4 Étoiles
  • (65 au total)
  • Évaluation
  • 7a+: 1,4%
  • 7b: 6,9%
  • 7b+: 88,9%
  • 7c: 2,8%
  • (72 au total)
  • Répétitions publiques
  • 25-03-2018: Ben Conner
  • 20-03-2018: Maciek
  • (67 au total)
Grimpeur: Patrick Arias
Grimpeur: Jan De Smit Auteur: Jonas Bracke
Grimpeur: Marc Lehner Grimpeur: Julien Gasc
Grimpeur: Øystein Andresen
Grimpeur: Neil Hart
No, again. - Anonymous (19-01-2012 13:54)
As the "opener", i wouldn't say it's a low start at all. Stand-up in front of it, on the ground, and you should be able to see what's allowed or not for you to go on it...

Don't use the boulders around it, that was the only convention for me... And for my size, as a stand-up start from the ground ( no elevation ), i needed to do the two hands dyno start to go in this problem.

Some friends can start with left hand in place and can jump to the right hand, and i will have done that if i was taller! Jacky Godoffe has done a crouching start, very low and nearly a sit-start ( avoiding to sit well...) which is way harder to climb! The sit start is maybe still to be done - properly at least - i will have done it too if i was stronger!

Notice, if you want to practice the tricky upper part, there's also a way with the help from the boulder left for your feet, to avoid any jump starts.

Again so, i believe "what's allowed" is a "bad start" for considering boulders.

Well, "good starts" again. - Anonymous (20-01-2012 10:26)
Neil, i copy here the past comment from your video link :

"indead [en] par neil_h ~ 23.03.2010 22:06
I thought it was actually easier to sit on the ground rather than do a crouching start"

So, maybe you also think this problem is easier without any pad under your feet for any jump start? Come on...
Anyway, always the same subject, to do complex things when they could be just simple. Keep the pad only for falling, that's all.
jump start? - grubber (18-01-2012 13:41)
in the 2 videos, both guys do a jump start. allowed or not?

cheers!
no - big sheint (19-01-2012 11:13)
it's a low start
true - Anonymous (19-01-2012 22:32)
I did the jump start in the video, I also did it from standing like sdblocs says

I also did it from sitting, but I sat from a pad, see the video here

http://bleau.info/sablons/1641.html

Personally, I think to jump is ok, but to stand i so much better, it adds a real difficlut move, I would like to see someone do the real sit start no pads, maybe my next project :)
I agree - Anonymous (20-01-2012 12:33)
Personally for me, there is no difference on the jump start, I am tall with very long arms, I agree with the pads, I will go back and try the sit start without the pad :)
thanks - grubber (25-01-2012 09:25)
thanks for the clarification, Stephan and Neil. definitely time to try that one again then!