Coquibus Longs Vaux (Sensitive biological reserve)    

  • Author: Jan Gorrebeeck
  • Author: Jan Gorrebeeck
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet

Coquibus is a particular and very sensitive part of the forest which must be treated with the greatest respect by visitors. Its status as a biological reserve allows you to climb there but this could one day be called into question due to too many visitors or irresponsible behavior. We ask climbers to limit their presence or otherwise their impact in the different areas of Coquibus as much as possible. In particular, do not go in groups, do not climb after sunset and do not use electrical devices (drones, fans, radios, etc.). Reduce chalk to the strict minimum, erase all traces of your passage and finally do not brush new boulders. Avoid leaving the paths and keep your dog on a leash from April to July.

Please read our ethics page.
The Long Vaux area consists of several small sectors, most of them above the Chemin des Longs Vaux, the most important one after 300 to 600 meters (with the boulder of Fata Morgana). Another sector can be attained by turning right after a flat stone on the flat, 100m from the parking lot.
Access: from Paris, take the bypass of Milly-la-Forêt and turn left at "La Croix St-Antoine" before the traffic lights. Follow the non-asphalted road for 1km to the parking lot of La Gorge à Véron.


Satan i Helvete (assis) P Sébastien Frigault sitstart, overhang


Angama (Fata i Helvete en traversée) 8c Daï Koyamada traverse fltr, overhang, dyno



Fata i Helvete 8b Daï Koyamada overhang
Fata Morgana (assis) 8b Sébastien Frigault sitstart, overhang
Satan i Helvete 8b 8b+ David Graham overhang


Fata Morgana (départ bas) 8a+ Daï Koyamada overhang, dyno


Adréna Line (direct) 8a Tony Fouchereau arete, dyno, expo
Belle de Nuit 8a Pascal Thomas roof
Fata Morgana 8a Christophe Laumone overhang, dyno


À Préhension 7c+ 7c Christian Roumégoux roof, sitstart
Le Jour 7c+ 7c Alain Denis roof
Le Jour et la Nuit 7c+ Arnaud Ceintre roof
Los Banditos 7c+ 7c Sébastien Frigault, Julien Nadiras, Olivier Lebreton arete, slopers


Belle de Jour 7c 7b+ Tony Fouchereau roof
La Nuit 7c 7b+ Alain Denis roof
Phobos Moon 7c 7c+ Kees Mak wall, dyno
- 7c Alain Denis overhang, sitstart


Compression 7b+ Julien Nadiras overhang, slopers, sitstart
Jour d'Hiver 7b+ 7c arete
La Cordilière des Andes 7b+ François-Xavier Joubert, Tony Fouchereau arete, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Long Jour de Mouillard 7b+ Yano Salaün traverse frtl, overhang


Bande de Chiffes Molles (direct) 7b 7a+ Laurent Vigouroux, Cédric Chatagnon slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart
e-Ball 7b Gérald Coste, François-Xavier Joubert, Tony Fouchereau dihedral, slightly overhanging, expo
Jour de Mouillard 7b Yano Salaün overhang, sitstart
Le Croc 7b 7b+ Arnaud Ceintre slightly overhanging
Spookybus 7b Bruno de Meyer mantle, sitstart
Tonnerre de Brest 7b Thierry Guéguen crack, high
- 7b Alain Denis arete, sitstart, slopers


Bande de Chiffes Molles 7a+ 7a Tony Fouchereau, François-Xavier Joubert, Cédric Chatagnon slightly overhanging, crimps, sitstart
Boumfer 7a+ Andrej Bolán overhang, crimps, sitstart
Compression (gauche) 7a+ Pierre Délas overhang, slopers, arete
Doris 7a+ Gérald Coste, Neil Hart, Tony Fouchereau slightly overhanging, roof, prow
Fourmiz 7a+ 7b Thierry Guéguen roof, underclings
Holé 7a+ Christian Roumégoux overhang, dyno, mantle
Le Diktat du Hamac 7a+ Frédéric Buc sitstart, roof, slopers
Paumes d'Amour 7a+ 7b GJou wall, slopers
Pente Douce 7a+ Alain Denis arete, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Zone Crépusculaire 7a+ Tony Fouchereau, Laurent Vigouroux, Cédric Chatagnon slightly overhanging, traverse frtl, wall


À Vaux l'Eau 7a 6c+ Eric Allayaud slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart
Décompression 7a traverse frtl, sitstart
Déimos 7a Alain Denis overhang, sitstart
Descends ta Mère 7a Frédéric Buc traverse frtl, crack
Épaule et Jeté 7a Frédéric Buc dyno, overhang, arete
i-Ball 7a Gérald Coste, François-Xavier Joubert, Tony Fouchereau slightly overhanging, slab, expo
Je le Vaux Bien 7a Eric Allayaud arete
La Balade de Nemo 7a 7a+ Tony Fouchereau traverse fltr
La Prétention 7a Etienne Beauchataud, Félix Cosserat roof, crack
Les Assis 7a Alain Denis overhang, mantle, sitstart
Psychotrope 7a 7a+ Jérôme Chaput wall, slightly overhanging, expo
Quand Vous Voulez pour le Test 7a Tony Fouchereau, François-Xavier Joubert, Laurent Vigouroux slab, slopers, crimps
Tension Inversée 7a Frédéric Buc sitstart


Moule à Gaufres 6c+ Eric Allayaud overhang
Travers de Porc 6c+ Frédéric Buc traverse fltr


Adréna Line 6c Thierry Guéguen arete, expo
Almost There 6c Jason Kester arete, slopers
L'Arête de Phobos Moon 6c 6c+ Sébastien Frigault wall, crack, arete
L'Arête du Container 6c prow, sitstart
Le Bout du Gland 6c 7a Cédric Chatagnon, François-Xavier Joubert, Tony Fouchereau overhang, sitstart
- 6c Eric Allayaud wall


À Préhension (gauche) 6b+ 6b nicolas vantorre, Bruno de Meyer, Frederik De Backker traverse, roof, sitstart
Le Mur de la Cordilière des Andes 6b+ 6c+ François-Xavier Joubert, Tony Fouchereau, Laurent Vigouroux wall, crimps
Le Poisson Clown 6b+ Gérald Coste, Neil Hart, Tony Fouchereau arete, slightly overhanging


L'Arête du Container (gauche) 6b prow, sitstart
La Grande Crémaillère 6b Philippe Le Denmat arete, high
Le Dièdre Fou 6b Philippe Le Denmat dihedral
Le Poisson Chirurgien 6b 6b+ Neil Hart, Tony Fouchereau prow, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Le Réta du Hamac 6b Frédéric Buc mantle, sitstart
P'tit Dévers 6b Alain Denis slightly overhanging


- 6a Frédéric Buc sitstart


Almost Almost There 5+ Jason Kester arete, slopers


La Petite Crémaillère 5 Philippe Le Denmat wall