This very popular and accessible area is situated alongside the N7 (the road between Fontainebleau and Barbizon), 1 kilometer away from (the bivouac of) Barbizon. Park at the big parking lots of the Carrefour de l'Épine, available at both sides of the road. A pedestrian tunnel is available to get you to the other side of the road, if you are coming from Barbizon; you can't make a U-turn on the road here. The first boulders are already visible from the road.
Access
🚌 Bus 21 from Avon or the railway station of Fontainebleau-Avon up to Barbizon Cimetière : 20mn. Then 20-25mn on foot by La Route du Briarée or 7mn by bike (bicycles accepted in the bus).
🚲 From Fontainebleau, follow La Route Louis-Philippe, La Route du Gros Fouteau and La Route de la Reine (asphalted up this point). Then take La Route des Ligueurs up to La Belle Croix and finish on La Route de Luxembourg (uncomfortable pavement).10km and 40mn from the railway station (35mn on the way back) and 30mn from Fontainebleau Centre .
P
8c+
8b+
Bélial
8b+
8c
Charles Albert
wall, slopers, crimps
Rien ne Va Plus
8b+
Thomas Willenberg
traverse, slightly overhanging, sitstart
8b
Encore
8b
Jacky Godoffe
loop, overhang
8a+
8a
Le Trou Ferreira
8a
7c+
Camille coudert, Lucien Martinez
slightly overhanging, sitstart
7c+
L'Idiot
7c+
8a
Marc Le Menestrel
wall, slopers
La Balance
7c+
7c
Jacky Godoffe
dyno, slopers, slightly overhanging
7c
Aeroheart
7c
7b+
Gregor Seliga
prow, slopers, dyno
Coup de Feel
7c
7b+
Jacky Godoffe
slightly overhanging, monos
Infidèle
7c
Alain Ghersen
pillar, pinches, slopers
Murmure
7c
Philippe Le Denmat
wall, crimps
7b+
Aérosol
7b+
Alexis Allayaud
wall, prow, sitstart
L'Aérodynamite
7b+
7c
Jacky Godoffe, Jo Montchaussé
prow, slopers, dyno
Rétaboutou
7b+
Shawn Raboutou
mantle, slopers, sitstart
7b
Elsev
7b
traverse frtl, crack, sitstart
Holey Biceps
7b
7a+
Jan De Smit
overhang, underclings, sitstart
Kudzu
7b
Fabien Marchand
overhang, sitstart
La Dragon
7b
7a+
Thierry Bienvenu
traverse fltr, slopers
7a+
Casse-Tête
7a+
Thierry Bienvenu
slightly overhanging
Cèpe Partie
7a+
7b
Louis Dalençon
traverse frtl, underclings, sitstart
Prothèse
7a+
Damien Boitard †
wall, crimps
Sleau
7a+
Thomas Willenberg
wall, sitstart
Stretch
7a+
Philippe Le Denmat
wall, underclings, crimps
Super Bouze
7a+
7a
Bruno Lazzerini
wall, slopers, mantle
-
7a+
Jean-Pierre Bouvier
traverse fltr
7a
Houx Ouille
7a
Thierry Gounelle
overhang, slopers, sitstart
L'Hélicoptère
7a
Jérôme Jean-Charles, Thierry Bienvenu
overhang, dyno
La Daubé
7a
Henri Heffinger
arete, crimps, mantle
Méga
7a
Bruno Lazzerini
wall, slopers
Pif Paf
7a
Patrick Arias
dyno, slopers
Sauterelle
7a
Philippe Le Denmat
wall, slab, crimps
Seven Up
7a
6c+
Philippe Le Denmat
slab, crimps
6c+
Escroc
6c+
6c
Olivier Bert
traverse fltr, crimps
6c
Giga
6c
Bruno Lazzerini
wall, slopers
L'Éveil du Bacu
6c
Philippe Le Denmat, Alexandre Dejean
slightly overhanging
La Forge
6c
Robert Paragot †
wall, crimps
La Lili
6c
Michel Libert †
pillar, crack
La Tchagatte
6c
Alexandre Dejean, Philippe Le Denmat, Benoît Debeugny
slab, crimps
Mal en Tendu
6c
Philippe Le Denmat
slightly overhanging, slopers
Timba
6c
Bruno Lazzerini
wall
Tourniqueton
6c
George Maris, Philippe Le Denmat, Martin Keller
wall, arete, slopers
Ungawa
6c
Bruno Lazzerini
wall
Woola
6c
Bruno Lazzerini
pillar, slopers
6b+
La Folle
6b+
6c
Lucien Bérardini
crimps, crack
6b
Adieu la Rampe
6b
Sébastien Chaillou, Philippe Le Denmat
wall, slopers
Eau de Vie
6b
Alexandre Dejean, Philippe Le Denmat, Benoît Debeugny
slab, wall
La Moussaka
6b
Yannick Aguera, Alexandre Dejean, Philippe Le Denmat
pillar, wall
Mamalléole
6b
Marco Laurent, Michel Vidailhet
wall, mantle
Mégotage
6b
Philippe Le Denmat
wall, crimps, dyno
Poker
6b
Roukha
wall, underclings, slopers
6a+
6a
La Fouine
6a
5+
Philippe Le Denmat
slab, arete
La Mousson
6a
Elric Besnier, Tony Fouchereau
arete, slopers, mantle
Naruto
6a
Christian Jarczak
belly
Téra
6a
Bruno Lazzerini
wall, slopers
Toucher Rectal
6a
Philippe Le Denmat, Alexandre Dejean, Benoît Debeugny
arete, slopers
Trio de Choc
6a
6b
Thierry Bienvenu, Jérôme Jean-Charles, Pierre Richard
wall, crimps, expo
5+
Climbix
5+
Sascha Deiters
arete, wall
Demos
5+
Christian Jarczak
wall
Felynx
5+
Christian Jarczak
arete, sitstart
Gorillaz
5+
6a
Christian Jarczak
wall, slopers
Jet Privé
5+
Philippe Le Denmat
wall, crimps, slopers
Le K6
5+
Marc Chardin
slab
5
La JCV
5
Jean-Claude Valluet
wall
La Vé
5
5+
Bruno Lazzerini
pillar
Le K2
5
Georges Heffinger
wall
Le Réveille-Malin
5
Michel Buisson †, Jean-Claude Valluet
traverse frtl, crack, overhang
5-
Le Moine
5-
Marc Chardin
slab, underclings
Minato
5-
Christian Jarczak
wall, sitstart
Papillon
5-
Bruno Lazzerini
wall, slopers
4+
Crâne d'Œuf
4+
Michel Buisson †, Jean-Claude Valluet
wall, slopers
La Rampe
4+
Michel Buisson †, Jean-Claude Valluet
wall
La Vjc
4+
Jean-Claude Valluet
wall
Le Trapu
4+
Philippe Le Denmat
wall, crimps, mantle
4
La Bavette
4
Michel Buisson †, Jean-Claude Valluet
wall
4-
Le Fissur'Âge
4-
Sébastien Lavoine, Michel Buisson †, Jean-Claude Valluet
wall, crack, sitstart
3+
Le Coinç'Âge
3+
Michel Buisson †, Jean-Claude Valluet
wall, crack
Mirthe
3+
Jean-Claude Valluet, Michel Buisson †
traverse frtl, sitstart
3
3-
L'Œuf
3-
Jean-Claude Valluet
slab
2+
2
1